A Time in History: September 2019

Wednesday, September 25, 2019

1830's Bonnet

Ah, yes, the dreaded 1830's bonnets that I despise so much. Well, at least they (somewhat!) cover the face!

Previous 1830's posts:
Introduction
1830's Shifts
1830's Petticoats
1830's Bustle

My main inspiration is this bonnet:

The green, brown, and cream elements just went so well with my dress fabric-I just went with a little more subdued green!

I looked for a pattern by Timely Tresses first, but they don't have their 1830's pattern out yet and I wasn't quite sure how long it would before it was out so I went ahead and purchased the Lynn McMaster's 1830's bonnet pattern. This pattern actually ended up working really well-I had some concern over the pleats and shirring of the original bonnet as I have never worked with 1830's bonnets and the shapes are vastly different from 1850's and 1860's. Messing with those shapes wouldn't be fun! As it just so happened, the McMaster's pattern did a pleated cover and a shirred lining so all I did was switch them and do a little less shirring based on the original.

The first step, of course, was to find fabric. I looked through Ebay and Etsy for a while but it is hard to match greens. Then remembering that I had once dyed some silk ribbon in a similar color to what I was trying to match. I found a remnant of that ribbon and it matched perfectly. The ribbon had been dyed with Dharma's Acid Dye in the 'Moss Green' color. A quick look through my dyes revealed there was nearly 2 oz. of the dye left in the container. Whoo-hoo! I went to Dharma's site to purchase some silk taffeta to dye only to discover they had since discontinued their silk taffeta. Knowing that their dupioni is very clean with very few bumps and slubs, I got 3 yards of that. My pattern only calls for 1.5 yards, however, I needed a yard or so for lining and Dharma only lets one order in full yards. It ended up working perfectly, however, because I used the extra yard as ribbon fabric.

Low and behold as I was looking through my stash for a completely unrelated thing later that night, I found 3 yards of Dharma's dupioni silk. Who knows where that came from! I tried dying that but I added way too much dye and it ended up very, very dark army green which is not what I was going for. I saved that for another project and waited for the new dupoini to get here.

While waiting for the fabric to arrive, the base had to be made. Fortunately, I stock up on buckram so I had plenty left to make the base. The pictures were taken before I realized I had left off the crinoline tape around the edges. That has since been sewn on. You can still see the shape, though.

I am quite pleased with the shape. It may need a little pushing of the wire for the tip top to go in a bit, like the original. Speaking of the original, I did have to change some things in the pattern to match. First, the brim had to be cut down about an 1" at the top so it was a little lower. I also cut off the cheek tabs as the original was straight across with very little curve. Honestly, I should have pushed out the crown's lower bit closer to the brim as it would have given the brim a better shape. But overall, it's not a halfway bad first try in 1830's millinery.

The pattern called for a thin cotton batting to cover the buckram which I've never seen mentioned in Timely Tresses patterns so I left it out. Less work! Then all I had to do was wait patiently until my fabric arrived to dye. Fortunately, you cannot beat Dharma's shipping times. I always go the cheapest route and it's never taken more than 2 days to get to me.

I went back and forth with the idea of doing a stove top dye or just throw it in the washing machine as the washing machine is what messed up the last bit of silk. Typically when dying small batches, I do stove top so I went ahead with that. I could watch it better and keep an eye on how dark it was getting.

Then it was just cutting the pattern out and starting to cover it. The really nice thing about the original is that anywhere there is a seam, there's velvet ribbon covering it so you don't see any stitching when it is complete! And then to decorate it. Extra green fabric was used to make ribbons. Most engravings and other bonnets had more than just ribbons adorning the bonnet and the Groce family raised Peacocks and other exotic fowl on Bernardo plantation so I felt that with the birds molting those beautiful feathers regularly, one might expect those feathers to be used somehow!

I am very pleased with how it turned out. I can't wait to use it in 1830's events now!

Enjoy!

Thursday, September 19, 2019

Blue Organdy Semi-Sheer

As I live in Texas, one can never have too many sheer dresses. I've had this fabric for several years, and it's been so hot lately, that I felt it was time to make it up.

The fabric is from puresilks.us. It's not nearly as sheer and fine as the picture made it seem. I tried purchasing an extra yard as I was making it up (2 years after purchasing the fabric) as I was a little short for trim but the new fabric is very sheer and fine. Very nice fabric but unfortunately, not what I was sent the first time. If you're purchasing this fabric, be sure to order plenty extra as the next time you order, it may not be the same fabric as you bought the first time!

The original I based this on a sheer dress from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It's actually piña cloth (fabric made from pineapple leaves) and not organdy, but as a sheer dress, the design elements wouldn't differ too much.

Basically, a low necked dress with a self fabric waistband and then a self fabric fichu. The fichu and pagoda sleeves are trimmed with shirring.

My version differed as I did box pleated trim instead of shirred trim. The piña cloth would be super thin and the organdy wasn't and I felt pleated trim looked better.

I ended up being able to finish the dress with the first fabric, even though I wasn't sure. I didn't have quite enough pleating to finish the fichu trimming.

I had to resort to piecing the last 6 inches of box pleating on the fichu. This is what I had to work with to make 12 inches fabric to pleat:

Yeah, not a lot. I ended up using a bit of bias to connect the pieces to make enough to finish the trimming. Here's the process:

I'm not used to cutting such close corners! It ended up working and I had an inch left over.

My original plan was to bring this to Corsets and Cravats but I ended up bringing my sheer wool instead. No matter, I'm sure it will get plenty of use in the future!

Enjoy!

Thursday, September 5, 2019

1830's Petticoats

Ahh, petticoats. The many, many layers of getting a poof before the cage crinoline. I ended up going with four petticoat layers underneath the dress and get a decent poof from that.

In case you want to recap on my new 1830's adventure, here are the previous posts:
Introduction
1830's Shifts
1830's Bustle

The first layer is what I often refer to as an underpetticoat. I first thought about just using one of the petticoats I use for 1860's events (as petticoats did not change much during this time) but then decided that it would be much better if I were to have all my 1830's stuff in one drawer as to not accidentally leave anything when I go out.

My underpetticoat is made of my typical undergarment fabric-white 200 thread count cotton from Walmart that I buy by the 25 yard bolt. This is either my third or fourth bolt. Can't ever have enough white cotton muslin!

There really weren't directions or engravings for plain petticoats in the Workwoman's Guide. What they called a 'petticoat' seems to be more of an underdress to go under thin fabrics and sheers. It includes a bodice and sleeves although I suppose it could mean that the petticoat body and skirt were separate, which would make sense. I have seen full dress petticoats used in the 1840's which makes sense as the WWG was written in 1838.

I didn't really want to make a full body petticoat so the directions in WWG weren't particularly helpful for me. Fortunately, petticoats are easy. For my underpetticoat, I took 3 panels of 45" cotton, stitched them together, gathered the top, attached a waistband, and hemmed the thing. Because I have not made my stays yet, I only put one buttonhole on the very end and just tacked on the two buttons. When I have everything together, I can finish that out.

The only thing 'wrong' with them is that I only left an inch for the hem and generally early Victorian petticoats had very deep hems. I believe the WWG states they should be 3 nails deep (nearly 7" for those without a calculator handy-6.75" to be exact). That's what happens when you are about to leave on a trip and want a project to take with you and don't really process what exactly you're making or have the time to really think it out. Oh, well.

I already had a corded petticoat from my early 1850's adventures so I was able to reuse that. That was a huge blessing as I swore I would NEVER make another corded petticoat. So much time and energy! And I even machine stitched it which I never do so on period items. Everything else is always completely hand done. Except for my corded petticoat now, I suppose. So, yeah, my corded petticoat:

It needs to be re-starched. I generally only starch my things right before an event so it'll be awhile before starching occurs. I did have to put in the tuck for the 1830's. Being made for a floor length 1850's dress, it was a bit long for the shorter look of the 1830's. It's based off several original corded petticoats like these.

Over top of corded petticoats (and a bustle, of course!), one need over petticoats, underskirts, whatever you want to call them. I call them underskirts. I made two.

The first is quite plain, made with 4 panels of 45" wide white cotton. I did do a thicker hem (about 5") on this one. The process in sewing it up is the same as the underpetticoat. In the end, I was glad I made the underpetticoat with a small hem that way I can tell the two apart at a glance without having to count fabric panels.

The second has tucks on it. I hate doing tucks but I managed 3, mostly because this petticoat is a little longer than the first and I needed something visual to easily tell them apart. It is also made with 4 panels of 45" wide white cotton and made the same way as the underpetticoat, save the tucks. The only other difference is that I added pockets to this petticoat. I got the idea from The Workwoman's Guide. It was their last option for making a pocket on age 73, is entitled "Another Method", and reads, "This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about 10 nails wide, and 8 nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep." Now, I didn't follow those directions exactly. 10 nails wide comes out to 22.5" wide which that is a huge pocket-even for me! I ended up making mine 12 inches wide and 20 long. I did 2 pockets, one on either side of the center front. They are just squares that I cut 12x20" then hemmed for strength. Then they were added to the seamed skirt panels with the 4 nail slit near the top of the pocket. Very practical and didn't involve another article of clothing to sew. Plus, I'll never lose my pocket like Lucy Locket! Mine are Firmly Attached to my petticoat and not going anywhere!

Save for starching them, skirt supports are all done. That makes all underpinnings except for stays complete. Whoo-hoo! Super productive month!
Enjoy!

Monday, September 2, 2019

A Parasol Forgotten, or Reasons Why I Don't Have My Parasol

You've seen them. The events where reenactresses stroll the grounds in otherwise (sometimes) lovely and (occasionally) correct clothes and headwear but then wielding a hideous monstrosity of a 20th century parasol-the dreaded battenburg parasol.

From Recollections. Please only purchase their items for
NON historical use. None of it is remotely correct.

I began to ponder just why one would see this as acceptable. Do they simply not know what 1860's parasols looked like? Do they feel, like I did when I first started, that they must have a parasol if they have a fashion bonnet and are just making do? Well, while that may be true (fashion bonnets do not cover your face so you do need a parasol to actually shade your face from the sun), I (now) feel as though it would be best to simply have no parasol and to explain your disappearing parasol away than have a glaringly incorrect one at your disposal. I would much rather have someone tell me why they don't have a parasol than have to look past a modern parasol and pretend it is correct.

Now when I first started, I did believe that one had to have a parasol if one was wearing a fashion bonnet and thought, for some strange reason, that a bad parasol was better than no parasol (it isn't, just so you know). Thankfully, I had some sense and did some research before purchasing. I ended up covering a kid's battenburg parasol with silk and using that for my first event before I was able to find an original in my budget and recover that. While not great, it was better than actually using an adult sized battenburg parasol as is. But now I know better. And have 33 original parasols at my disposal that I can use instead so no more of that.

I wish I had someone to tell me to not waste time and money on an incorrect parasol and to go without for a weekend back when I started. So for all you who are new to living history, or at least to the progressive side of things, I have collected 30 (and expanding) excuses as to why a lady may not have her parasol with her at the very moment. If you do not currently have a correct parasol to use at events and are needing to explain away your parasol-less-ness, please see below and use any of these that strikes your fancy (and consider a bonnet veil for some level of shade).

30 Reasons Why I Don't Have My Parasol

I left it in my room and did not realize until we had already left.
I have managed to misplace my parasol. I am quite sure it is in my room... some place.
My servant has misplaced my parasol.
I left my parasol in the carriage.
My mischievous little sister borrowed it to accompany Mother on a visit without my permission and now I am parasol-less until they return!
Spring cleaning has made rather a mess of the house and I cannot find my parasol anywhere!
My father accidentally sat upon my parasol and has cracked the stick. I have ordered a new one from a manufacturer and I am to pick it up next week.
I left it at ___ business this morning as I was shopping. I have sent someone to fetch it but they have not yet returned.
My puppy found it and has chewed my parasol to bits! It is, unfortunately, beyond repair but I am going to town tomorrow to purchase a new one.
I had to use my parasol just yesterday to hit a man who came up to rob me. My poor parasol was broken in the defense and has to be repaired.*
My parasol broke and my new one is not finished yet. I may have to go to town and purchase a parasol to use in the meantime.
I believe left my poor parasol at ___'s house yesterday as I was paying a call. I have sent for it but it has not found its way back home as of yet.
I am new to town and I did not bring my parasol with me as I intended to purchase a new one when I arrived. Would you believe that the latest styles has just sold out yesterday and they are not getting new stock until next week?
My brothers decided to use my parasol as a play sword and have managed to crack a rib. It is currently being repaired and I have, as of yet, no replacement.
I forgot to bring my parasol.
My sister's cat managed to get hold of my parasol and has torn the poor cover to bits!
It must have dropped out of my hand when I stepped into the carriage. I know I had it before then but when I got settled and we were on our way, it was no where to be found.
Yesterday, while I was walking it town, I dropped it in the mud. It is currently being repaired.
I left it in my pocket as I was shopping this afternoon and as I got home, realized my pocket had a large hole in the bottom! My poor parasol must have slipped through. Goodness knows if I will ever get it back. I will have to go back to town tomorrow to see if anyone has found it. If not, I suppose I'll have to purchase a new one.
My toddler managed to take hold of some scissors while no one was paying her mind. Unfortunately, my parasol was not the only thing cut to pieces before anyone noticed. When I get to town, I shall also have to have new dining room drapes made.
My family has just moved here and are as of yet, still unpacking. I am not quite sure where my parasol is right now.
A neighbor was walking me home from church and my parasol fell into the creek as we were crossing the bridge. The brave young man attempted to rescue my dear parasol but alas, his efforts were in vein.
While walking this morning, I ran across a snake. In fear, I hurriedly dropped my parasol and ran off. I shall not go back to retrieve the parasol until I am quite sure the snake is gone!
When returning home from visiting my brother, the ferry capsized and everything we were carrying was lost. My husband was able to save myself and our baby, but my parasol was lost.**
I am out to visit for the day, and would you believe that in my haste to pack, I have forgotten my dear parasol!
Several friends and I picnicked yesterday and I seem to have left my parasol in the woods. I have sent letters to my friends and ask if they have happened to find it hiding away in their picnic baskets as it was not in mine.
After taking a stroll this morning, I carelessly tossed my parasol onto a chair then unwittingly sat upon the poor thing to take off my shoes. The dear parasol was crushed and is no longer in a condition to be of service.
My dear daughter, who is five, used my parasol in play and appears to have misplaced it. She cannot remember where she has put it and we are still searching!
Well, you see, yesterday the winds were so strong, that they broke several of my parasol ribs! I have sent it with my husband to take to the parasol manufacturer to see if it can be repaired.
Several friends and I were wagon racing and my brother, who was driving, managed to drive us right into the creek! As we suddenly stopped, my parasol went flying into the creek and by the time my brother retrieved it, it was too far gone to be saved.***

*The stories just in Texas about women using their parasols as weapons against robbers, unwanted sexual advances, etc, is quite interesting. I've only been through the 1850's so far and there were at least 3 or 4 just in the 10 newspapers I searched.
**Inspired by a Groce story in 1831. Edwin Groce had just come to Texas and was staying with his sister, Sarah, her husband, William, and their infant son. They spent a day visiting Jared IV and on the way home, the ferry toppled over due to the current caused by lots of rain. William got Sarah and the baby to safety then went back for Edmund but he had been swept away and was presumed dead. Although a parasol is not mentioned in the story, had Sarah had one, it would have been no more.
***Inspired by another Groce story. Again, no parasol mentioned, but IF one were around, this would be the likely scenario. That's basically what I do here-take historical stories, then add a parasol. Because every story needs a parasol.

And a bonus one: If you are wearing a corded or slat bonnet and/or are working, you don't need a parasol. You can claim you have one but you only use it to go to town and church. Memorize details of a dream parasol from a museum collection and describe in great detail 'your' parasol to other living historians and spectators alike. No one ever has to know...

One may also use an umbrella if a parasol is no where to be found. I have seen photographs of sunny days where a woman is carrying an umbrella as shade. It doesn't seem to be the norm, but it is an option. That opens up a whole new set of no parasol excuses.

And yes, most of these excuses are a bit overboard. But depending on the situation, they may add to your character and some 19th century life for spectators. In addition to these excuses, you may also add a detailed description of 'your' parasol to spectators to add even a greater level of detail (see above).

For now, I shall leave you with some images of original parasols to get the image of the battenburg I shared earlier out of your mind.