1830's Shifts

First 1830's project!  They're nothing fancy, in fact, they're quite a mess!  As discussed in the introduction post, I'm beginning a new 1830's adventure.  This is my first sewing attempt pre-1853.  Let's just say it was interesting.

First thing first: as I had no experience with this time period, I needed to look at some originals to see what was typical for 1830's shifts.

National Trust Collection, 1830's

Private collection, 1820-1830

Historic Locust Grove, 1830's

Victoria & Albert Museum, 1835

Victoria & Albert Museum, 1835

Unknown collection.  Listed as 1820's but I think 1830's 

For my shifts, I decided to use the Workwoman's Guide (1838) mostly because it is free and is an original source.  WWG includes written instructions and illustrated plates.

The main directions for a shift were easy to follow and would have worked just fine if I actually had any skill in reading step by step directions (which I do not).  I cut across the top where I should not have which would have been fine if I had just made a shoulder seam but I decided to try my hand at the crossed shift.  That did not fit AT ALL so I ended up taking the parts from both shifts and that was enough to give me 2 shifts.  Basically, my 'pattern' is the main shift (fig. 1) being the front and back with 2 crossed shifts (fig. 4) being underarm gores.  So there were 6 pieces per shift.  For the first shift, I made a square underarm gusset that I made bigger than the pattern called for (I don't remember the reason I did so) and on the first shift, I followed directions for shoulder straps and sleeves.  I had to add 1" to the shoulder strap in front to fit and then I ended up not being able to gather the sleeve onto a band because it wasn't wide enough to give me very many gathers.  As with the crossed shift pattern, I added bust gussets as well.  Then I used silk ribbon to draw up both the front and the back.  I made both shifts about knee-length and used a narrow hem.  For the second shift, I cut my sleeves longer and used the last 3 figures as a pattern to avoid cutting separate underarm gussets.  I then put these sleeves on a band.  All seams are hand sewn.

I think for the next shift, I'll buy a commercial pattern.  I know Past Patterns has one.

Finished shifts:

I think next time I'll use straight shoulder pieces as opposed to the shaped ones as well.  At the very least, it was a learning experience!

Enjoy!