In case you want to recap on my new 1830's adventure, here are the previous posts:
Introduction
1830's Shifts
1830's Bustle
The first layer is what I often refer to as an underpetticoat. I first thought about just using one of the petticoats I use for 1860's events (as petticoats did not change much during this time) but then decided that it would be much better if I were to have all my 1830's stuff in one drawer as to not accidentally leave anything when I go out.
My underpetticoat is made of my typical undergarment fabric-white 200 thread count cotton from Walmart that I buy by the 25 yard bolt. This is either my third or fourth bolt. Can't ever have enough white cotton muslin!
There really weren't directions or engravings for plain petticoats in the Workwoman's Guide. What they called a 'petticoat' seems to be more of an underdress to go under thin fabrics and sheers. It includes a bodice and sleeves although I suppose it could mean that the petticoat body and skirt were separate, which would make sense. I have seen full dress petticoats used in the 1840's which makes sense as the WWG was written in 1838.
I didn't really want to make a full body petticoat so the directions in WWG weren't particularly helpful for me. Fortunately, petticoats are easy. For my underpetticoat, I took 3 panels of 45" cotton, stitched them together, gathered the top, attached a waistband, and hemmed the thing. Because I have not made my stays yet, I only put one buttonhole on the very end and just tacked on the two buttons. When I have everything together, I can finish that out.
The only thing 'wrong' with them is that I only left an inch for the hem and generally early Victorian petticoats had very deep hems. I believe the WWG states they should be 3 nails deep (nearly 7" for those without a calculator handy-6.75" to be exact). That's what happens when you are about to leave on a trip and want a project to take with you and don't really process what exactly you're making or have the time to really think it out. Oh, well.
I already had a corded petticoat from my early 1850's adventures so I was able to reuse that. That was a huge blessing as I swore I would NEVER make another corded petticoat. So much time and energy! And I even machine stitched it which I never do so on period items. Everything else is always completely hand done. Except for my corded petticoat now, I suppose. So, yeah, my corded petticoat:
It needs to be re-starched. I generally only starch my things right before an event so it'll be awhile before starching occurs. I did have to put in the tuck for the 1830's. Being made for a floor length 1850's dress, it was a bit long for the shorter look of the 1830's. It's based off several original corded petticoats like these.
Over top of corded petticoats (and a bustle, of course!), one need over petticoats, underskirts, whatever you want to call them. I call them underskirts. I made two.
The first is quite plain, made with 4 panels of 45" wide white cotton. I did do a thicker hem (about 5") on this one. The process in sewing it up is the same as the underpetticoat. In the end, I was glad I made the underpetticoat with a small hem that way I can tell the two apart at a glance without having to count fabric panels.
The second has tucks on it. I hate doing tucks but I managed 3, mostly because this petticoat is a little longer than the first and I needed something visual to easily tell them apart. It is also made with 4 panels of 45" wide white cotton and made the same way as the underpetticoat, save the tucks. The only other difference is that I added pockets to this petticoat. I got the idea from The Workwoman's Guide. It was their last option for making a pocket on age 73, is entitled "Another Method", and reads, "This is simply a lining or square piece of calico, about 10 nails wide, and 8 nails deep, sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite plainly. The petticoat has a slit of four nails deep." Now, I didn't follow those directions exactly. 10 nails wide comes out to 22.5" wide which that is a huge pocket-even for me! I ended up making mine 12 inches wide and 20 long. I did 2 pockets, one on either side of the center front. They are just squares that I cut 12x20" then hemmed for strength. Then they were added to the seamed skirt panels with the 4 nail slit near the top of the pocket. Very practical and didn't involve another article of clothing to sew. Plus, I'll never lose my pocket like Lucy Locket! Mine are Firmly Attached to my petticoat and not going anywhere!
Save for starching them, skirt supports are all done. That makes all underpinnings except for stays complete. Whoo-hoo! Super productive month!
Enjoy!
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