tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68908325603955396162024-03-05T02:33:44.724-08:00A Time in HistoryMy experiences in the adventures of Living History in Texas.Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.comBlogger116125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-36874592846975485002021-10-24T10:02:00.000-07:002021-10-24T10:02:01.313-07:00I'm still putting out content...<p> Just not always here :). Last year, I started a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5-7r7bp1bHgbsn9vM_ZCtQ">Youtube Channel</a> where I started documenting the projects I would otherwise document here. For a while, I was writing a blog post AND doing a video for each project but that simply was too much work. I opted for putting the research in the video instead of here.</p><p><br /></p><p>I am still keeping the blog up and running and I WILL post here from time to time. Sometimes there is just too much research into a particular project or topic that I will info dump here to pair with a weekly video. So expect less frequent posts here. If you're interested in keeping up with me, subscribe to the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5-7r7bp1bHgbsn9vM_ZCtQ">Youtube channel</a> or follow me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/a.time.in.history/">Instagram</a>. Videos are going up on Mondays on Youtube (yes, every Monday just like it used to be every Wednesday here) and I'm trying to post at least 1-2 Instagram posts a week. When events start happening, it'll be more frequent.</p><p><br /></p><p>Thank you!</p>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-13465219978840717672021-02-15T07:00:00.011-08:002021-02-15T07:00:02.096-08:00My First 1830s Dress<div style="text-align: left;"> Finally, we have a dress! With all the shawls, bonnets, caps, petticoats, and other various 1830s dresses, I was wondering if we'd ever get to making the dresses!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />The fabric is Andover's Chatham Hall collection, I'm not sure of the exact title.<br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17gTPjhsbGz3EBGZG0d34eXUliiBSQcW-0LsWaq4ieGS2SxDx_doBoA_2t75FYzCwoBNztURW6MmaRikBerekITn3os36bZAQSjH67JJjdUavoRSn-r-FetJZ2jiY-PPWvOcW2F6270pp/s225/download.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17gTPjhsbGz3EBGZG0d34eXUliiBSQcW-0LsWaq4ieGS2SxDx_doBoA_2t75FYzCwoBNztURW6MmaRikBerekITn3os36bZAQSjH67JJjdUavoRSn-r-FetJZ2jiY-PPWvOcW2F6270pp/s0/download.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The design is similar to several original 1830s dresses, which is why I chose it.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSlUxiPgykHBVcEFX6CQDnerKuZgoW-CAe5-jPDLAtYf7JinqGoP-LEkkbVbrIuxklC5jedM97TKqC2yIt1dydCGcsVKpROmHQBP3HtZ54ila2zzlNylBBGZZgMenq_sUNEnRT0UKsWwf/s400/42a79bc1a934b381783683335332f90d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="267" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSlUxiPgykHBVcEFX6CQDnerKuZgoW-CAe5-jPDLAtYf7JinqGoP-LEkkbVbrIuxklC5jedM97TKqC2yIt1dydCGcsVKpROmHQBP3HtZ54ila2zzlNylBBGZZgMenq_sUNEnRT0UKsWwf/s320/42a79bc1a934b381783683335332f90d.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kerry Taylor Auctions</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtLbA2NKwZJc7lCErop_vyLgL8cyGQzpWFk8CcBov3XvbYZv55zYIO1YfkKafKdI6mmq_gFI3N3DPt-tLpF5GPP-f8CteC7j3LcRTb4SrEBePnHfiFR9DA-V8qYEB5RBogfbepTYPSjUU/s854/868fa262dc55b3de0e9efac2f73c0679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="854" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtLbA2NKwZJc7lCErop_vyLgL8cyGQzpWFk8CcBov3XvbYZv55zYIO1YfkKafKdI6mmq_gFI3N3DPt-tLpF5GPP-f8CteC7j3LcRTb4SrEBePnHfiFR9DA-V8qYEB5RBogfbepTYPSjUU/s320/868fa262dc55b3de0e9efac2f73c0679.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mode Muze</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghALfcrKWWcxAMu2rbT-gPddIjN0mgh69a500NlQFFKt2KAN8oHZtzFAZ-bAV_cBcmOudLuqTS2eOW7SEuYD_XG2j_8V7XUlfCF7Z_wMEkKKHUuZfPr6tHwA8NKb4P15gtgX4LnIBFDeKw/s806/b59a68382c4875db4cfdde371d5be8f7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="806" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghALfcrKWWcxAMu2rbT-gPddIjN0mgh69a500NlQFFKt2KAN8oHZtzFAZ-bAV_cBcmOudLuqTS2eOW7SEuYD_XG2j_8V7XUlfCF7Z_wMEkKKHUuZfPr6tHwA8NKb4P15gtgX4LnIBFDeKw/s320/b59a68382c4875db4cfdde371d5be8f7.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Philadelphia Museum</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The only thing that I didn't like about the fabric was the monotone fabric (that fear was eased when I found the Philadelphia Muse<span style="font-family: times;">um dress above) and the fact that it has little dots all over it. But according to the Mode Muze, that particular dress is described as "<span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 1.3875px;">made of fine white cotton, printed background of purple dots and stripes in whimsical motifs in lilac, beige, red and green". Also, this dress from the Metropolitan Museum of Art has dots as well.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 1.3875px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108080?rpp=30&pg=17&rndkey=20140630&ft=%2A&pos=483&imgNo=0&tabName=related-objects" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="774" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtbtOHIsr3S1y7oXd_G1XjE7wzfXpHmd2v3i2rWDdoK3FRQRsy9dw7I74ZCmoMwbrseJ8hpFRcDsEtedKKlcxCsmYK49LmkuOOEwoCaNfzqFo86xCQtrdI2_7NA6AZj4dcFMrAKa8UA3eF/s320/dress.png" width="320" /></a></div><span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 1.3875px;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">For my dress, I decided to copy one that is for sale on Etsy right now.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp6W2TFrUMsDL2n9RzqQLb3TzINj7EmJWWl7wKBi8wqUkiopF8CgV0JVCswx3dNYwt91b1u9CP3Pd5_bd84caKQerMMdI19GDubUALGPn_RvhWSZwdtBnuticwe8q444JEp8cqzfibKb7j/s794/il_794xN.2235533382_p36d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="744" data-original-width="794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp6W2TFrUMsDL2n9RzqQLb3TzINj7EmJWWl7wKBi8wqUkiopF8CgV0JVCswx3dNYwt91b1u9CP3Pd5_bd84caKQerMMdI19GDubUALGPn_RvhWSZwdtBnuticwe8q444JEp8cqzfibKb7j/s320/il_794xN.2235533382_p36d.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times;">It's a front closing gown (yay!) that's made from a cotton print. The nice thing about for sale items is that you generally get really detailed pictures. I could tell exactly where this gown was piped, how it was closed, what was cut on the bias vs on the straight, etc. That was extremely helpful while I was planning out this dress!</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">The only thing I really changed from the original was to add more hooks and eyes for closures and skirt slits to access pockets. There were no picture of the hem but I could tell that the skirt was not lined, so I opted for a very short facing to finish off the hem.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">I also added a self fabric pelerine that is piped along the edge. I used a Workwoman's Guide pattern for that, which was helpful.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPIJxqn8u8L6_N7cgxNr1LzIYcc2Gpf9woVvQ5_rSAldrnjdjwE_SZHJSUkdevEP0yfEtaC4vrr5XVa0kRaWKnZ-jR1woLQU2t3jcpBrn0NyEzuBvWZr-a5aMIIhChOQAt9-iVrG2B4Fs/s2048/DSCF0037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPIJxqn8u8L6_N7cgxNr1LzIYcc2Gpf9woVvQ5_rSAldrnjdjwE_SZHJSUkdevEP0yfEtaC4vrr5XVa0kRaWKnZ-jR1woLQU2t3jcpBrn0NyEzuBvWZr-a5aMIIhChOQAt9-iVrG2B4Fs/s320/DSCF0037.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptFQ_o3UUlvyDYCiolYJqOeFDAm6Y0LwT4NvrlDs4jakju1DFMhhFlHUO2yk5WYvt_wa-3SJX68Si65X4TPkaaoFaXJjhkJ9lz-GjXOcJGKF3yYYMk7I1QYg1av4TwFHrOHE8SOi64-V_/s2048/DSCF0043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptFQ_o3UUlvyDYCiolYJqOeFDAm6Y0LwT4NvrlDs4jakju1DFMhhFlHUO2yk5WYvt_wa-3SJX68Si65X4TPkaaoFaXJjhkJ9lz-GjXOcJGKF3yYYMk7I1QYg1av4TwFHrOHE8SOi64-V_/s320/DSCF0043.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuVbjBQaPHP6COB0_JhHOEQnA0p8E-msXxMzQeiThPltkf41X4hqiJ101IPCLgrpGftiIzXCsKo_7Uw0imu866EZcTE9-jXCwi67hCQCnrHNMV1fnpp6KKWTxvSPwH3aorOsi-tf3BBZ4g/s2048/DSCF0047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuVbjBQaPHP6COB0_JhHOEQnA0p8E-msXxMzQeiThPltkf41X4hqiJ101IPCLgrpGftiIzXCsKo_7Uw0imu866EZcTE9-jXCwi67hCQCnrHNMV1fnpp6KKWTxvSPwH3aorOsi-tf3BBZ4g/s320/DSCF0047.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times;">Many more to come!</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;">Enjoy!</span></div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-7836913878884926992021-01-18T07:00:00.007-08:002021-01-18T07:00:00.664-08:00Sealing Wax and Wafers<div style="text-align: left;"> This was quite a new concept for me as by the 1850s, we had gummed envelopes so wax and wafers were old fashioned by my usual time period. But delving nearly 20 years prior, I've had to pick up some new skills along the way.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5tgTakdB0hLdE7TWbGMDMIR9js6ub_v9_MAq47p9Es7leVJZGpIxmSgumauFTcBEHFUnwSTlHhUCo_PwSKuhKjb1M9ylMh0OVDyLH1Y6RaLLif60It9_hFWDU-qU1Goas3nrcsZOlOwW/s743/Letter.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="743" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG5tgTakdB0hLdE7TWbGMDMIR9js6ub_v9_MAq47p9Es7leVJZGpIxmSgumauFTcBEHFUnwSTlHhUCo_PwSKuhKjb1M9ylMh0OVDyLH1Y6RaLLif60It9_hFWDU-qU1Goas3nrcsZOlOwW/s320/Letter.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Back of a letter written by my living history character, Sarah Wharton<br />Yale University Archives</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br />On the back of Mrs. Wharton's letter, you can see remnants of a seal. The actual seal is missing (I believe it was on the chewed away parts) so we can't actually see what her seal was. But I CAN tell you Sarah used red sealing wax!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The first step was to order a custom seal for Sarah. I chose a simple SW for her initials. Looking at original seals, initials seem to be popular for 1820-1840. Some had the first, middle, and last initial; but I chose just first and last 1) because 2 letters fit on the seal better than 3 and 2) her initials spell SAW and I didn't want there to be any confusion that it represented initials not a word. And since we can't see Sarah's actual seal, it could have been almost anything.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Now Sarah was wealthy and therefore probably had a fancy seal. Possible precious metal and stone or more likely ivory or bone. I did wood because that was what I could get. I decided that since this isn't Sarah's 'real' seal but rather one that sits with her traveling port folio, she may not have spent the extra money on something that could have gotten misplaced on all her travels. Therefore, I decided cheaper was okay for this project.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I ordered a seal from Etsy that works just fine.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWuoJhBQ_09zxaxlQVzkLSf2pgIlpJFf0-As9xBqyH34Cl4dK4-dNTThy2Z-L4Pyi3152w62dg6zlbRpamrxmVJfkFU5d2n1ouIwo5Q6WZ_yjp07bUY0RJEEg0l8856O7S_1-ANhPH87T/s1512/IMG_7279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWuoJhBQ_09zxaxlQVzkLSf2pgIlpJFf0-As9xBqyH34Cl4dK4-dNTThy2Z-L4Pyi3152w62dg6zlbRpamrxmVJfkFU5d2n1ouIwo5Q6WZ_yjp07bUY0RJEEg0l8856O7S_1-ANhPH87T/s320/IMG_7279.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmLtiOy6FIYn1sQroLBqZRHU20ERws2zser56vV8-mKws7PMiJg-vsMy0Af2JPX0RRIOCZ-6TDqz21AgvY4H15NzIZfZnBW3etTHuwdEXOdHDTk8NLIDgOaTAce7LWQqkH9uXtm2lbQKY/s1512/IMG_7281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXmLtiOy6FIYn1sQroLBqZRHU20ERws2zser56vV8-mKws7PMiJg-vsMy0Af2JPX0RRIOCZ-6TDqz21AgvY4H15NzIZfZnBW3etTHuwdEXOdHDTk8NLIDgOaTAce7LWQqkH9uXtm2lbQKY/s320/IMG_7281.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Then I set about making some sealing wax. I didn't necessarily have to as you can still buy sealing wax today, but I thought it would be fun making my own even though Sarah most definitely would not.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My sealing wax receipt comes from <a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/A_thousand_notable_things_embracing_a_co/0jYCAAAAQAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0">Edward Somerset's 1822 publication of "</a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "Google Sans", "Product Sans";"><a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/A_thousand_notable_things_embracing_a_co/0jYCAAAAQAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0">A thousand notable things, embracing a collection of scarce receipts"</a>.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "Google Sans", "Product Sans";"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: "Google Sans", "Product Sans"; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3sJM4nhFX3cXzHJmfw43v5xnT1oNAS_21o8ia56tASvC7k1EX9Xi97wRwtYsfFz7gfcKGdWKWL02dbDGdoQSlTz6CUCU2pdVI8Yhvr9HJE9qpOcZVvr6pxailzB50jqCZXMnF9sMIaD7/s442/Recipe.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="120" data-original-width="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3sJM4nhFX3cXzHJmfw43v5xnT1oNAS_21o8ia56tASvC7k1EX9Xi97wRwtYsfFz7gfcKGdWKWL02dbDGdoQSlTz6CUCU2pdVI8Yhvr9HJE9qpOcZVvr6pxailzB50jqCZXMnF9sMIaD7/s320/Recipe.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;">I used olive oil instead of turpentine but otherwise followed the receipt as far as main ingredients. Of course, vermillion is poisonous and otherwise unavailable should I even want to use it so I used red mica powder instead. This first batch turned out rather transparent so next time I will add more colorant.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgipR7khsedln24cMa2TzEGdnCIwtfrb4ZQIPD_aviOVLG8PDg03DF-7p2UHYFmTWR8cKzRXDZIghyXCGNb2w0VJy8koMfqhwQ3N0_51RVs9s-D3mASXDcumrE0l9RWyCO420aG2fYqFtF-/s2016/IMG_7275.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgipR7khsedln24cMa2TzEGdnCIwtfrb4ZQIPD_aviOVLG8PDg03DF-7p2UHYFmTWR8cKzRXDZIghyXCGNb2w0VJy8koMfqhwQ3N0_51RVs9s-D3mASXDcumrE0l9RWyCO420aG2fYqFtF-/s320/IMG_7275.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;">I also chose to make other colors, as described in <a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Cyclop%C3%A6dia_Or_Universal_Dictionary/CDm_WNFgDY0C?hl=en&gbpv=0">"</a></span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "Google Sans", "Product Sans";"><a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Cyclop%C3%A6dia_Or_Universal_Dictionary/CDm_WNFgDY0C?hl=en&gbpv=0">The Cyclopaedia; Or, Universal Dictionary of Arts, Sciences and Literature" published in 1819 by Abraham Rees</a>.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5LWolU_40epllY15k6Z7vh4WXWGfWWvGJbWBEcen_eW_IBiGzJ54GYM17A7jW8SvfCyVVLDws7dKxDCNH1kcU2jqB-clfKHTE-2NnGBrHsMzVcakS-JxHufV3k0NGHDuhkkhYnwiadr0/s371/Wax.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="201" data-original-width="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5LWolU_40epllY15k6Z7vh4WXWGfWWvGJbWBEcen_eW_IBiGzJ54GYM17A7jW8SvfCyVVLDws7dKxDCNH1kcU2jqB-clfKHTE-2NnGBrHsMzVcakS-JxHufV3k0NGHDuhkkhYnwiadr0/s320/Wax.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;">I did not make purple but did attempt black, green, blue, and yellow. I used my own colorants that I already had, although I know I can get verdigrise for green next time. This go around, I used terre verde from earthpigments.com for green, brilliant yellow of the same company for yellow, blue mica powder for the blue, and black mica powder for the black.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr4Hxpje8IoZg3jCD1xiSsYJ60n__eGJhHIj1bIw3m28F18_yEM3vgvCe5T4URTHW2E_mTZZofMuutgA5kvpbIc_eaLQlfYtMnj4LEXJBPj0QKTq1n-8NFEU55em00FQ1IGveBi1qsbBCd/s2016/IMG_7270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr4Hxpje8IoZg3jCD1xiSsYJ60n__eGJhHIj1bIw3m28F18_yEM3vgvCe5T4URTHW2E_mTZZofMuutgA5kvpbIc_eaLQlfYtMnj4LEXJBPj0QKTq1n-8NFEU55em00FQ1IGveBi1qsbBCd/s320/IMG_7270.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4DEKNC5hb7Q1s6VnlDDRK8gvJE7JA-HioO1dDW-84WwUw5bVzjt8v3VFeBS2OgVG9K8GL3HZwe0K-KOaz3vSuvXSeU_JQSU2KzgZQwSB3bvOnptws4DEJ1YAoQhDG8hOowVdaZBe5FAl/s2016/IMG_7273.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB4DEKNC5hb7Q1s6VnlDDRK8gvJE7JA-HioO1dDW-84WwUw5bVzjt8v3VFeBS2OgVG9K8GL3HZwe0K-KOaz3vSuvXSeU_JQSU2KzgZQwSB3bvOnptws4DEJ1YAoQhDG8hOowVdaZBe5FAl/s320/IMG_7273.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86EUib3bowMHevbSONZ0tVghQJgc7-mAFJGmHuGomRfccJ0_TtfLCb5BtwoxdJdYPyEfX6beZ5_PDn_1CLhh5l8w30Ln1-Ya4ok8GMcyRUNn9QQN6VGnODZIePere78ZUUjghJgcigb9p/s2016/IMG_7274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg86EUib3bowMHevbSONZ0tVghQJgc7-mAFJGmHuGomRfccJ0_TtfLCb5BtwoxdJdYPyEfX6beZ5_PDn_1CLhh5l8w30Ln1-Ya4ok8GMcyRUNn9QQN6VGnODZIePere78ZUUjghJgcigb9p/s320/IMG_7274.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0q26f5CNiCmXC2KblJOzVyG4NNPkuSkCfrMRiGE4CcAmdPnzXAda-UdxXcUDPn4q4WJKZPQFLXIWsKZQt_uWiGIugdW8zgMiexeN_-9dAG7yWyvdlkDl0-xYZUnXevXzJJEmWmLbZNRU/s2016/IMG_7271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0q26f5CNiCmXC2KblJOzVyG4NNPkuSkCfrMRiGE4CcAmdPnzXAda-UdxXcUDPn4q4WJKZPQFLXIWsKZQt_uWiGIugdW8zgMiexeN_-9dAG7yWyvdlkDl0-xYZUnXevXzJJEmWmLbZNRU/s320/IMG_7271.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;">The blue turned out especially well.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Google Sans, Product Sans;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xcayplisrKSQ4w6lyn_7cLpCGdvKg0FO3UqPUsfOMoXvB35zNA_DMiIju-hon_ElpwXtpkJj8Fwo-1KvpaUxsY0v4ysTN24_e6k-AvwLMX1raeRJ6lJ1TPxwEydf00-uIEOrQDrDH-xJ/s2016/IMG_7272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xcayplisrKSQ4w6lyn_7cLpCGdvKg0FO3UqPUsfOMoXvB35zNA_DMiIju-hon_ElpwXtpkJj8Fwo-1KvpaUxsY0v4ysTN24_e6k-AvwLMX1raeRJ6lJ1TPxwEydf00-uIEOrQDrDH-xJ/s320/IMG_7272.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times;">Next up were wafers. I used "</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: times;">The New Family Receipt-book" published in 1811.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #333333; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5JzcdyjH9iY9c3aIMi7di-j1gPPZaI-6zdbNtylC1xQ-SgTfegf3pmIfRSiaXyGyNEza7R0vY3BfrjEPOHeMj1-HsTAa70sreQ7KL4rVfAKsID-TRASbntTSsFAwHhYFWzUFuDoCvYhg/s427/Wafers.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="226" data-original-width="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5JzcdyjH9iY9c3aIMi7di-j1gPPZaI-6zdbNtylC1xQ-SgTfegf3pmIfRSiaXyGyNEza7R0vY3BfrjEPOHeMj1-HsTAa70sreQ7KL4rVfAKsID-TRASbntTSsFAwHhYFWzUFuDoCvYhg/s320/Wafers.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;">I couldn't get the isinglass to dissolve so I had to forgo that. I also took out the yeast because I had a hard time getting them thin enough without leavening. There are other receipts that only call for flour, water, and colorant so I didn't feel bad leaving it out.</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;">Next time, I'll try Brazilwood for read, indigo for blue (I tried but I couldn't quite figure it out yet. I'm working on it),and probably turmeric for yellow (I didn't have any in my pantry at the time). Food coloring will work for now. These are still experiments.</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprWTa9S6zybyzeWrr2R8CCmVkcRAci7TM6SH8BuZAZCgmdneiX_0uKyL4s3pRQhmPIKldkICDZNoazppsAwEppxPqAYRQWj3SPJONJ8FvLx8yjF4QfGinAN1FpkMmOHBLP5qqgI7ZY8vf/s2016/IMG_7277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprWTa9S6zybyzeWrr2R8CCmVkcRAci7TM6SH8BuZAZCgmdneiX_0uKyL4s3pRQhmPIKldkICDZNoazppsAwEppxPqAYRQWj3SPJONJ8FvLx8yjF4QfGinAN1FpkMmOHBLP5qqgI7ZY8vf/s320/IMG_7277.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0HPyEnMYUor3_USPlFknB3YPqml6n9vCvX9a_m8GYnqmfV4ndR3QdLq5tlKVmLqQsD1gYtB0yT0ZlJU4d6CqKsfDj-LV3YZZHF7QQ-OFa0Q8OKPpViA4GU2RV59vfaabOHQu_hD0OPSSk/s2016/IMG_7278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0HPyEnMYUor3_USPlFknB3YPqml6n9vCvX9a_m8GYnqmfV4ndR3QdLq5tlKVmLqQsD1gYtB0yT0ZlJU4d6CqKsfDj-LV3YZZHF7QQ-OFa0Q8OKPpViA4GU2RV59vfaabOHQu_hD0OPSSk/s320/IMG_7278.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #333333;">The wafers are still quite thick as you can see. I'm working on thinning them down as the originals that are seen are nearly paper thin.</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ed0dAYaLYVJbqCjvXNh7RoGHekSKuzX8qd6wlvs4QL8ihe1SUnSeDIWbSmytE2rABgFkWhTUpuRAY7yCMYXCN1mxBFvg5dGMMWhYvi_6i2DxfOrixzW9NmGKvZ-tVpqJ1boj2G_iTgqR/s564/63051c2462924b4f73600e9fdace3219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ed0dAYaLYVJbqCjvXNh7RoGHekSKuzX8qd6wlvs4QL8ihe1SUnSeDIWbSmytE2rABgFkWhTUpuRAY7yCMYXCN1mxBFvg5dGMMWhYvi_6i2DxfOrixzW9NmGKvZ-tVpqJ1boj2G_iTgqR/s320/63051c2462924b4f73600e9fdace3219.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Original wafers from Ebay</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;"> But I'm still happy with how the whole project came out!</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: times;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDFTkeCvXZwg_aZ5OIiGlkJta2kV6b8qPMAf4Kltd9U5rEevd2HcmFdIUIGkA_pfdCNi3JuAnpZ-cv0J9oPxH1A3GglDEWiZR9ahwVC9zl_BrSoXrCOJyPKoq5dVQBWL9pFZ-WC76se9j/s2016/IMG_7255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDFTkeCvXZwg_aZ5OIiGlkJta2kV6b8qPMAf4Kltd9U5rEevd2HcmFdIUIGkA_pfdCNi3JuAnpZ-cv0J9oPxH1A3GglDEWiZR9ahwVC9zl_BrSoXrCOJyPKoq5dVQBWL9pFZ-WC76se9j/s320/IMG_7255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #333333;"><br /></span></span></span></div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-36898856488414692512021-01-11T07:00:00.017-08:002021-01-11T07:00:09.476-08:00Writing Portfolios and Pen Wipers<div style="text-align: left;"> This was just supposed to be just the traveling port folio from the Workwoman's Guide but turned into quite a project!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />The portfolio is made from bookboard and covered in black silk trimmed with green and brown silk ribbon. It is filled with a turtle pen wiper, pen nibs, a bone pen, a horn pen, two pencils, tapers, a seal, sealing wax, a letter opener, and a knife. It turned out cute!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhc5yjauNVbEWg6Bwd7pW39_L-jIY9veoLyQX4dtkLK3Nk7JSgzmparPzEcfzE2U5Vr-uW_4ZCS9YUHmrDo0NyKbZ3s6_zLbvEVXEeL1E0_oGRuXm7rQ82Is-0IMJY1N4UblkSSCqOcWCi/s2016/IMG_7303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhc5yjauNVbEWg6Bwd7pW39_L-jIY9veoLyQX4dtkLK3Nk7JSgzmparPzEcfzE2U5Vr-uW_4ZCS9YUHmrDo0NyKbZ3s6_zLbvEVXEeL1E0_oGRuXm7rQ82Is-0IMJY1N4UblkSSCqOcWCi/s320/IMG_7303.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The 1860s writing desk was put together with mostly the same items, except I added stamps and gummed envelopes for events post 1858.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEx2L4DowsWiHoCJohwQXHpMVRSkw1tuhEJSKclavLAnAGZj3rszSh7Cy_wAzZECXAMmPA4CBqNkMPaJjOpHQ9lPnRBFdcFLRyLAV_a5moqOz2kQtiAhfrkOkpC9n5RfaOU3Z8n-9p8rhF/s2016/IMG_7356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEx2L4DowsWiHoCJohwQXHpMVRSkw1tuhEJSKclavLAnAGZj3rszSh7Cy_wAzZECXAMmPA4CBqNkMPaJjOpHQ9lPnRBFdcFLRyLAV_a5moqOz2kQtiAhfrkOkpC9n5RfaOU3Z8n-9p8rhF/s320/IMG_7356.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJaOEx0IKrxbls5CIvosgwn0gZlPD4CVts_kwkwsI_6gCwlbhNiNNL_3gPqsrM9YO08UZOkQI9De9Noi0lJOlE1WhEgi9cL-cpFhsKgq6GCtSkdzeCCuEP7x8ZDonpPwnRUbmB8kVC63nu/s2016/IMG_7358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJaOEx0IKrxbls5CIvosgwn0gZlPD4CVts_kwkwsI_6gCwlbhNiNNL_3gPqsrM9YO08UZOkQI9De9Noi0lJOlE1WhEgi9cL-cpFhsKgq6GCtSkdzeCCuEP7x8ZDonpPwnRUbmB8kVC63nu/s320/IMG_7358.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For both desks, I made my own ink out of walnut shells which was a fun experience. Then I made SEVERAL pen wipers. I'm going to take 2 of them to sell at the Texas Living History Association's auction.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Aside from the turtle one, I made two pinwheel pen wipers, one with a crochet top and bottom with ceramic squirrels on top, and another plain with just a china button.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTHz5cO0_O3LQQNxsxGfbLN3y5h2dDgd7N-F4DqomfoOUqWUfxnnowANnVq1IooBFG7JTBXcxFiULC2cAUCIDt_zusbVQNoCORgTAHdRE53v3q0C-99hSccUg58KgDKo3HjGJOsVBc5HX/s2016/IMG_7349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLTHz5cO0_O3LQQNxsxGfbLN3y5h2dDgd7N-F4DqomfoOUqWUfxnnowANnVq1IooBFG7JTBXcxFiULC2cAUCIDt_zusbVQNoCORgTAHdRE53v3q0C-99hSccUg58KgDKo3HjGJOsVBc5HX/s320/IMG_7349.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_IiSiGjP55GVJQxKtQNOiJo5D2sGueF_z4N9Lx7P3H5bRxpHKBJMX-7usnUxiVJ3uTEwDlY7I691NBNYnSD2cbWSAX2WwvTYNr5qJMyQ5_lrtEW3dfaVAbBGyICt4yvRy8JUcv78tHRp/s1280/IMG_7359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_IiSiGjP55GVJQxKtQNOiJo5D2sGueF_z4N9Lx7P3H5bRxpHKBJMX-7usnUxiVJ3uTEwDlY7I691NBNYnSD2cbWSAX2WwvTYNr5qJMyQ5_lrtEW3dfaVAbBGyICt4yvRy8JUcv78tHRp/s320/IMG_7359.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxcWDVes8ihj3ABGkACvjfqokaaufhSCX02Xsr9J63Oka1nmfSSl3Xmf1L6qJwcs1Xtg2XcHkYBm6gR4CM8yWVeGSgxVovYh3mKouAGZlbQbYD11LUF0n3-I2eUya4P-P2YVYxO8z-tmpZ/s1280/IMG_7360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxcWDVes8ihj3ABGkACvjfqokaaufhSCX02Xsr9J63Oka1nmfSSl3Xmf1L6qJwcs1Xtg2XcHkYBm6gR4CM8yWVeGSgxVovYh3mKouAGZlbQbYD11LUF0n3-I2eUya4P-P2YVYxO8z-tmpZ/s320/IMG_7360.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1HMyJZTozdoQ1c1SRCyX9kqP8wmpI-xEf-mbPF4a8tS3yHBIVfsInVdoQHNMIFgFVuCNJ1b32vZcvjXF4zLEP11cjIJbLBqxrxdWUJWy5rRs0lw74dwhejEPsZOiGdKJQhAK855bo0Ye/s1280/IMG_7361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1HMyJZTozdoQ1c1SRCyX9kqP8wmpI-xEf-mbPF4a8tS3yHBIVfsInVdoQHNMIFgFVuCNJ1b32vZcvjXF4zLEP11cjIJbLBqxrxdWUJWy5rRs0lw74dwhejEPsZOiGdKJQhAK855bo0Ye/s320/IMG_7361.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then I made a strawberry pen wiper based off this original from Peterson's Magazine, 1865:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdAbpX0sccZaGroMnDf_T4vwIdaK0mXrNnh4D82xlKSwjDIGRA3_cvptX_gDowtQnKFLpIun3_JzPjf5D6W2jNWoX_6YkMr1_RxURzZEo-rDGD-2S0y5ySS_7NOUazu398oWdEeyBaElC/s939/85ad7ca2b4cb9e4ca506bbb5e67b2fe3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="939" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNdAbpX0sccZaGroMnDf_T4vwIdaK0mXrNnh4D82xlKSwjDIGRA3_cvptX_gDowtQnKFLpIun3_JzPjf5D6W2jNWoX_6YkMr1_RxURzZEo-rDGD-2S0y5ySS_7NOUazu398oWdEeyBaElC/s320/85ad7ca2b4cb9e4ca506bbb5e67b2fe3.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I used glass beads for the veins and crocheted the strawberries. The actual directions I used were something of this sort:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Chain 4, then join with the 1st chain with a slip stitch</div><div style="text-align: left;">Single crochet around (4 stitches)</div><div style="text-align: left;">2 single crochet in each stitch around (8 stitches)</div><div style="text-align: left;">Single crochet around (8 stitches)</div><div style="text-align: left;">Single crochet around, but increase every other stitch (12 stitches)</div><div style="text-align: left;">Continue in that pattern (plain row, increase row, plain row) until it looks like a strawberry. Stuff the strawberry then single crochet in every other stitch until the strawberry is closed. Tie off.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The little green stem bit was as follows:</div><div style="text-align: left;">Chain 5, single crochet back down, slip stitch in the 1st chain, chain 5, single crochet back down, slip stitch in the 1st chain, chain 5, single crochet back down, slip stitch in the lst chain. Then I stitched it on the strawberry and beaded the strawberry with yellow glass beads.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8gBGKMH4-7B-PtdiRCREY5-cOBGYPCq8FgBOkGGnmWMxAqhD7S0C2R0tj_0uh9H4qT0fgN1HC3PekMOiNWSFHrLMmDhKItEHph8QPl4Ax1-IO4aEWsY2z5KD1uOI-6UAMqOnVUv7bNei/s2016/IMG_7353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8gBGKMH4-7B-PtdiRCREY5-cOBGYPCq8FgBOkGGnmWMxAqhD7S0C2R0tj_0uh9H4qT0fgN1HC3PekMOiNWSFHrLMmDhKItEHph8QPl4Ax1-IO4aEWsY2z5KD1uOI-6UAMqOnVUv7bNei/s320/IMG_7353.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCRQoO9uiS_zCX1Jr3WFTH5X0OZvzOKCqwqa-1sVjNUExwGkMmGePzNLk6abkcl_2KOdUUvA1sxAiaS9W1w5eruvRcOscgqQXaPzmaVnXvmHVprBKhUIgXP9UcyZgC4GsH0mdd5HD1j6PY/s2016/IMG_7354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCRQoO9uiS_zCX1Jr3WFTH5X0OZvzOKCqwqa-1sVjNUExwGkMmGePzNLk6abkcl_2KOdUUvA1sxAiaS9W1w5eruvRcOscgqQXaPzmaVnXvmHVprBKhUIgXP9UcyZgC4GsH0mdd5HD1j6PY/s320/IMG_7354.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I also did an acorn pen wiper from an 1868 Godey's Lady's Book pattern.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKT20vZsfEFFGPdFGnBLcCbttx415UvveuE8qkUlWbBy_aWukcibZUKu6STHHMBTpg-HPgj74H2kzkDYswxNc3bOBQotEXWWZUxMrB4cIMuSby_bEKJDhcTUhu9d0U-5TGJJ3S7nYBbTTQ/s588/Untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="588" data-original-width="522" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKT20vZsfEFFGPdFGnBLcCbttx415UvveuE8qkUlWbBy_aWukcibZUKu6STHHMBTpg-HPgj74H2kzkDYswxNc3bOBQotEXWWZUxMrB4cIMuSby_bEKJDhcTUhu9d0U-5TGJJ3S7nYBbTTQ/s320/Untitled.png" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I used real acorn hulls but crocheted the actual acorns using a very similar pattern to the strawberries, but smaller.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Chain 2, slip in the 1st chain.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Single crochet 4 times in 1st chain.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Do 2 single crochet in each stitch (8 stitches).</div><div style="text-align: left;">Single crochet across (8 stitches) x2</div><div style="text-align: left;">Stuff the acorn.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Single crochet, skip a stitch, single crochet until the hole is closed.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLgDJ-qkpK2bZnuiiPu79mIb7GhzLMTTQqJI7kY3IMAJt52DLZ7gE60A_sB_Nnt4XdWJoz7HPvtqKm8wBXkkOKMypGDUt6hYreZZbjvhB7yIeaQrGPGv1sLvvbLonhFVuLFH1nui-IG5-/s2016/IMG_7350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLgDJ-qkpK2bZnuiiPu79mIb7GhzLMTTQqJI7kY3IMAJt52DLZ7gE60A_sB_Nnt4XdWJoz7HPvtqKm8wBXkkOKMypGDUt6hYreZZbjvhB7yIeaQrGPGv1sLvvbLonhFVuLFH1nui-IG5-/s320/IMG_7350.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMFL6T19s9sexCY0vNjFmiOt3CKDVDoZG7tZKsKqpscKeLLoZ-tuvtPlxUs0AC6chc0bWESTm8li01wpjkaUY4LcPsFvp0dLpvJe354SqhxULLw0zs4iXX9bkBx8a0R4NuDL1WX5lxVWc/s2016/IMG_7352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIMFL6T19s9sexCY0vNjFmiOt3CKDVDoZG7tZKsKqpscKeLLoZ-tuvtPlxUs0AC6chc0bWESTm8li01wpjkaUY4LcPsFvp0dLpvJe354SqhxULLw0zs4iXX9bkBx8a0R4NuDL1WX5lxVWc/s320/IMG_7352.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The project turned out super cute!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyk9YqraPxd6Kq1-bAXQcbooig5al45Ecfla1IQfB-9yxDegbrpQm60xo3otSweB1_flNuvZ_nGjSzeqb2eXaO2rsYT4KwieLpDlgWkLwKi7eBnZHn4dtROPQ0p5YcoySTu_1TdwyKmtAH/s2016/IMG_7306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyk9YqraPxd6Kq1-bAXQcbooig5al45Ecfla1IQfB-9yxDegbrpQm60xo3otSweB1_flNuvZ_nGjSzeqb2eXaO2rsYT4KwieLpDlgWkLwKi7eBnZHn4dtROPQ0p5YcoySTu_1TdwyKmtAH/s320/IMG_7306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-76198973866692246492020-12-21T07:00:00.001-08:002020-12-21T07:00:00.195-08:00Recreating an 1830s Watercolor Box and Portfolio<div style="text-align: left;"> This is something I definitely never thought I'd be making as I've never was into painting or drawing. I received very little instruction in these mediums and they never particularly appealed to me. But as I am striving to educate myself to the extend of a highly educated woman in the 19th century (due to living history personas' education levels-I have to be able to pass as one of them while in character! It's not like living historians get a script!), art was on my list of things to learn. As such, I needed a pretty little box to store art supplies. A short trip down research lane landed me with several options.<br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXaQHyTj3xGI9iqLdrO2Fc0JaDERkB_uwljFNFN9ZGpuM5DCeUafZ2fktPyQaedUMQ5nl5fFQdpecBoCHP37YTBMRRX6Xr_y-WkN7ZcehlGiXZQDiGv2NPVx3gBEoqd7oxNQeWhhx_2Xd/s864/barbara+walkers+paint+box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="486" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXaQHyTj3xGI9iqLdrO2Fc0JaDERkB_uwljFNFN9ZGpuM5DCeUafZ2fktPyQaedUMQ5nl5fFQdpecBoCHP37YTBMRRX6Xr_y-WkN7ZcehlGiXZQDiGv2NPVx3gBEoqd7oxNQeWhhx_2Xd/s320/barbara+walkers+paint+box.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.whimsie.com/reeves%20sons%20barbara%20walker%20paint%20box%20%201829.html">Hygra.com, 1829-1830</a><br />This one is especially neat as the artist's paintings<br />are still with the set!</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwFZ1aoIEzdqJVXoxZEk0l6ekE-CsBZcr1WLv82zZIZR2VAVlWpqUlGKe9yD4HoqDuuiHaIkGNdsV6S6k_3zCsJGwvFUVp98zWM91smw1C3BF6OKKPfyHHF2sR3fMPiWI8V5bR5egpa8U/s640/Osborne+Lg+Box+a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="478" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwFZ1aoIEzdqJVXoxZEk0l6ekE-CsBZcr1WLv82zZIZR2VAVlWpqUlGKe9yD4HoqDuuiHaIkGNdsV6S6k_3zCsJGwvFUVp98zWM91smw1C3BF6OKKPfyHHF2sR3fMPiWI8V5bR5egpa8U/s320/Osborne+Lg+Box+a.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.whimsie.com/reeves%20sons%20barbara%20walker%20paint%20box%20%201829.html"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hygra.com, 1830-1840</span></a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCW4A67Q-BddKpiHLTTbHad5YkqHNpjj7ozHg2xYckLxbr2OeGAbB-DvteGjgFLhClFeUDVmim7ZMdZJFj2QW25eCSFUtSQ9cKMgPztv6vKu4SNk4WFjYvUNz5H9mWv43BBIV_4KeqvTU/s1008/reeves+woodyer+1799+artists+antique+watercolor+box+right.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="855" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCW4A67Q-BddKpiHLTTbHad5YkqHNpjj7ozHg2xYckLxbr2OeGAbB-DvteGjgFLhClFeUDVmim7ZMdZJFj2QW25eCSFUtSQ9cKMgPztv6vKu4SNk4WFjYvUNz5H9mWv43BBIV_4KeqvTU/s320/reeves+woodyer+1799+artists+antique+watercolor+box+right.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hygra.com, 1799-1816</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Aren't they cute? I opted to make mine look more like the last one. I bought <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQIOQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">a simple walnut box</a> off Amazon, a little smaller than the originals, but the same proportions. It doesn't have a drawer so I had to build a tray with extra wood. I also bought the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081GMNV26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">locking system and key</a> from Amazon. The stain and sealer were left over from another project. It turned out cute!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For the interior, I chose two glass cups that I already had, some decent sable hair brushes (I made sure they had wood handles and I ended up painting over the company name on the handle to give it more of a period feel without the modern company name on them), <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XF7JJX2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">various erasers</a>, and a few phials to put ink into. I also ordered another <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HFGJB3R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1">bone pen</a> and a set of nibs as well as a <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Porcelain-Mixing-Ceramic-Watering-Wet-Tray-Rainbow-Pallete-Lid-6-Holes/182905521938?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649">mixing tray (sold on Ebay as a dental tray)</a> and some <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079DY343W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">charcoal sticks</a>. I am still in the market for a flat porcelain mixing tray. The only ones on the market are wood or plastic!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then it was time for the paints. Here are the receipts I used.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The watercolor base is 1 cup HOT water, 1/2 cup <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFSP6XB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">gum arabic</a>, and 1/4 cup honey. 1/2 teaspoon of glycerin can be added to reduce cracking. Mix until the gum arabic is completely dissolved (this can take about 15-20 minutes or longer).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The basic 'recipe' for the pigments that <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RLZDQJT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">fit into my tray</a> consists of 2 spoonfuls of watercolor base (called 'mix' in the recipes below) and 3 spoonfuls of pigment.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">1. 2 tsp mix + 3 tsp <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHJQB4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">chalk</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">2. 2 tsp mix + 2 tsp ginger + 1/2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">3. 2 tsp mix + 2 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/">brilliant yellow</a> + 1 tsp chalk (this came out too light-I'd suggest going all 3 tsp with the yellow)</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">4. 2 tsp mix + 3 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/">orange ochre</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">5. 2 tsp mix + 2 tsp <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">narcoat mica powder</a> + 1 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">6. 2 tsp mix + 3 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/">raw sienna</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">7. 2 tsp mix + 1/2 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye tobacco leaf</a> + 1 drop
vinegar + 1 1/2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">8. 2 tsp mix + 2 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/">violet ochre</a> + 3/4 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">9. 2 tsp mix + 1 tsp smoked paprika + 1 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">10. </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">2 tsp mix + 1 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye cayenne red</a> + ¼ tsp
vinegar + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">11. 2 tsp mix + 1/4 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye cabernet</a> + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">12. 2 tsp mix + 1 tsp <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">shine red mica</a> + 1 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">13. 2 tsp mix + 3 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/cochineal.html?lnav=dyes.html">cochineal</a> + 1/2 tsp vinegar (this was before lake pigment, just using ground up bugs)</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">14. 2 tsp mix + 1/2 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye sour apple</a> + 1/2 tsp
vinegar + 3 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">15. 2 tsp mix + 1/4 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye moss green</a> + 1/4 tsp vinegar
+ 3 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">16. 2 tsp mix + 1/4 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-fiber-reactive-procion-dyes.html">fiber dye granny apple</a> + 1/8 tsp
salt + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">17. 2 tsp mix + 1 tsp <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">dark green mica</a> + 1 tsp
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">apple green mica</a> + 1 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">18. 2 tsp mix + 1 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/">terre verde</a> + 1 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">19. 2 tsp mix + 1/4 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye wedgewood blue</a></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"> + 2 tsp
chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">20. 2 tsp mix + 1/4 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye peacock blue</a></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"> + 2 tsp
chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">21. 2 tsp mix + 1 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/">French turquoise</a> + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">22. 2 tsp mix + 1 tsp <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">cobalt purple mica</a> + 2 tsp
chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">23. 2 tsp mix + 1 <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079DY343W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">stick charcoal</a></span></div><div style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0px;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">24. 2 tsp mix + 1/8 tsp <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGUN86A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">indigo</a> + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>After mixing them into the silicone tray, I put them to dry. You can do this by air drying (avoid sunlight) or if you're impatient like me, in the oven. I stuck mine in at around 150 or 200 degrees F. I left mine in the oven overnight to dry and they turned out well. Don't put them any higher than 200 as I tried 250 and my paints turned out holey and airy, and misshapen/burnt when I put them at 250 for 2 hours. Lower for longer is better. Here is the color key chart for how these recipes turned out:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp20N7o4nFoyqF4r7XFKc_2dhVCqiJvYu5izvu72j4EPxLXBEV8aCjSolxGgJJpJ5Pk3lk17bSafq-lXvAcxSKEOQzGgo942LGXf0fWgQUOEeISg7ukQYo3XvpSPwORfQ5YT68lb8_6L5M/s2016/IMG_7287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp20N7o4nFoyqF4r7XFKc_2dhVCqiJvYu5izvu72j4EPxLXBEV8aCjSolxGgJJpJ5Pk3lk17bSafq-lXvAcxSKEOQzGgo942LGXf0fWgQUOEeISg7ukQYo3XvpSPwORfQ5YT68lb8_6L5M/s320/IMG_7287.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After this first attempt, I tried making lake pigments, which is just taking a liquid dye and reducing it to powder form using alum and washing soda (which is one way to do it). I made lots of lake pigments-including from natural things such as cochineal (which was suppose to yield a red but I ended up with purple), beetroot (an ugly gray color if you can believe it), and cabbage (blue, green, or purple depending on how much alum I added to the mix). I also used the Dharma trading dyes and make lake pigments but I would like to continue to experiment with this. I only ended up using one of my Dharma lake pigment paint blocks in my final box as I managed to burn most of them on 250 degrees F.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For my final 12 blocks, here is the color template of the colors: </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDK83S5RUsP-eTYxoqs4B87wfpCDY3T4Vn8QRsTxkjlLu0hZHnJffnImMzGkL5jHgzCQulXggB9cJbqLHNQed-MR10SgsQzvTDAjH21yODalRH_Y_YDJfQRLrLtW67CqPvMH-S_ga2TBO/s2016/IMG_7288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEDK83S5RUsP-eTYxoqs4B87wfpCDY3T4Vn8QRsTxkjlLu0hZHnJffnImMzGkL5jHgzCQulXggB9cJbqLHNQed-MR10SgsQzvTDAjH21yODalRH_Y_YDJfQRLrLtW67CqPvMH-S_ga2TBO/s320/IMG_7288.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">From left to right, here are the recipes.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">1. 2 tsp mix + 2 tsp <a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/" style="text-indent: -24px;">brilliant yellow</a> + 1 tsp chalk</div><div style="text-align: left;">2. 2 tsp mix + 3/4<span style="text-indent: -24px;"> tsp </span><a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html" style="text-indent: -24px;">acid dye tobacco leaf</a><span style="text-indent: -24px;"> + 1 drop vinegar + 1 1/2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">3. </span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">2 tsp mix + 3 tsp </span><a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/" style="text-indent: -24px;">orange ochre</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">4. </span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">2 tsp mix + 3 tsp </span><a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/" style="text-indent: -24px;">raw sienna</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">5. 2 tsp mix + 3 tsp red mica powder</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">6. </span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">2 tsp mix + 1 </span><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079DY343W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" style="text-indent: -24px;">stick charcoal</a> (I didn't grind up the charcoal very well so it's lighter than the first batch)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">7. 2 tsp mix + 3 tsp lake pigment made from Dharma's acid dye wedgewood blue</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">8. </span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">2 tsp mix + 1/2 tsp <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-acid-dyes.html">acid dye peacock blue</a></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"> + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">9. </span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">2 tsp mix + 1 tsp </span><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" style="text-indent: -24px;">dark green mica</a><span style="text-indent: -24px;"> + 1 tsp </span><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R15HHWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" style="text-indent: -24px;">apple green mica</a><span style="text-indent: -24px;"> + 1 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">10. </span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">2 tsp mix + 1/4 tsp </span><a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dharma-fiber-reactive-procion-dyes.html" style="text-indent: -24px;">fiber dye granny apple</a><span style="text-indent: -24px;"> + 1/8 tsp salt + 2 tsp chalk</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-indent: -24px;">11. </span><span style="text-indent: -24px;">2 tsp mix + 3 tsp </span><a href="https://naturalearthpaint.com/earth-mineral-pigments/" style="text-indent: -24px;">terre verde</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In addition to the box, I also made a portfolio to carry around my finished pieces and extra papers. It is made with book board covered in leather on the outside and marbled paper on the inside. I glued it all together with PVA bookbinding glue. Then drilled holes to insert a lovely silk ribbon. You see these types of portfolios a lot in paintings and fashion plates being used as an easel to draw upon.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOK7Q0hlrxiFw9Pl7HNQoCJst7eLjeonwqUMK3N_ZbfPGYSCrGc3gL-XjyAbW0pyqWHQMq79aIlt4bjznRmaEWw6DSQiuWx6TFnI7I1VhxdFVAmMSXzhwLDOucQ_hyx2LcrvIvlFTTfmkn/s778/2c61437c1d18886e7c3a62ee25e60308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOK7Q0hlrxiFw9Pl7HNQoCJst7eLjeonwqUMK3N_ZbfPGYSCrGc3gL-XjyAbW0pyqWHQMq79aIlt4bjznRmaEWw6DSQiuWx6TFnI7I1VhxdFVAmMSXzhwLDOucQ_hyx2LcrvIvlFTTfmkn/s320/2c61437c1d18886e7c3a62ee25e60308.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Lady's Magazine, July 1830</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2CP7hQQCJJv610pJgTMlv-4ZulcKWHKLAl7QN4bTIP4dr3qcupKvANts_Y-fYMPKBIFPR-39VzdHauwoI5KS3f8mCdP8siw7mujWMgzSEG2-DZjZi0pbHGrD8SPjBvuR97U2KSO4x0H8-/s400/14ef1cabdd30049970d42bea44b01fc3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2CP7hQQCJJv610pJgTMlv-4ZulcKWHKLAl7QN4bTIP4dr3qcupKvANts_Y-fYMPKBIFPR-39VzdHauwoI5KS3f8mCdP8siw7mujWMgzSEG2-DZjZi0pbHGrD8SPjBvuR97U2KSO4x0H8-/s320/14ef1cabdd30049970d42bea44b01fc3.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">"Portrait of the McEven Sisters" by Thomas Sully</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgggXDzjJ0a6avYVZXbwxliYFjYMe_a9dz_DI9hXEbBFmO9M9V-741NSpzyDgzfU-GRiLUEmOYQfjgomGjRnawfP9JMxP-QYx6-kX_8-KD6qAvXl824dLvFBDrrmhXN0jzIXRdpuZCSJmEK/s650/29fa0cba5ad2e255fdcf8b3ed60cedc0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="534" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgggXDzjJ0a6avYVZXbwxliYFjYMe_a9dz_DI9hXEbBFmO9M9V-741NSpzyDgzfU-GRiLUEmOYQfjgomGjRnawfP9JMxP-QYx6-kX_8-KD6qAvXl824dLvFBDrrmhXN0jzIXRdpuZCSJmEK/s320/29fa0cba5ad2e255fdcf8b3ed60cedc0.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Marie-Adelaide Durieux</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSMFFoa3tEuBd3fB6jbvNMqYNoRYd3udVqG8kJ35hJEOShcvCxGCBSLJFJUfODKcXvqQmNbJCbMLyBfuX1AZE77SBakQZuRB67RcnxspLD3_TAaGS4u5ni7RUmpoRFl7JY-Xc6rC6LPF0Y/s911/900caa08b4c0e671fbc47d834d46dea9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="911" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSMFFoa3tEuBd3fB6jbvNMqYNoRYd3udVqG8kJ35hJEOShcvCxGCBSLJFJUfODKcXvqQmNbJCbMLyBfuX1AZE77SBakQZuRB67RcnxspLD3_TAaGS4u5ni7RUmpoRFl7JY-Xc6rC6LPF0Y/s320/900caa08b4c0e671fbc47d834d46dea9.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mode Parisiennes</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs13vwLleAsuX6cQJOO88YUbRz7fMaPGfWzqB_p4dP0e8ve_iwfY3n07M9v4hHKWfQv52TB7JNCijnoh0q6IuaYu1wNxiIqO-sWlHwpIM-OZojvADbqLZBMNc_-RxpcaFoUb9z6DOVAei4/s699/85769dde58b8ea99aa881b13d1086451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="522" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs13vwLleAsuX6cQJOO88YUbRz7fMaPGfWzqB_p4dP0e8ve_iwfY3n07M9v4hHKWfQv52TB7JNCijnoh0q6IuaYu1wNxiIqO-sWlHwpIM-OZojvADbqLZBMNc_-RxpcaFoUb9z6DOVAei4/s320/85769dde58b8ea99aa881b13d1086451.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLSSyNra7Vm1a-DS5nbWSY6pfQDJMcwjjeEzjkRWIGkiXS41ICi-03J4gA0lwWCLrPKLC5KEmmG7AaJvpyi9jllMrRkxnCFbX6YcLhufQpM7OIMW3xitTLBmR21UVYjJ-BXWOdanD7MrDK/s650/cbe17d06d432864c1aaedaf0b55c4ff5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="486" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLSSyNra7Vm1a-DS5nbWSY6pfQDJMcwjjeEzjkRWIGkiXS41ICi-03J4gA0lwWCLrPKLC5KEmmG7AaJvpyi9jllMrRkxnCFbX6YcLhufQpM7OIMW3xitTLBmR21UVYjJ-BXWOdanD7MrDK/s320/cbe17d06d432864c1aaedaf0b55c4ff5.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHfoIGiiSQ-gwN-UaKVBWUTndPpnxPj9l4RBV6LfDrHBVN01dkoP8SR2i5cBogkd-mfkOa8OFHygjAg7isINDud0ssKFZ31DGIredw9vzv0166zmr1QQdB5Zjdm8UyCP5y5CkEqwZ4r7CW/s500/fc76415bc7e3dfe279d1fbba4a74967e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="315" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHfoIGiiSQ-gwN-UaKVBWUTndPpnxPj9l4RBV6LfDrHBVN01dkoP8SR2i5cBogkd-mfkOa8OFHygjAg7isINDud0ssKFZ31DGIredw9vzv0166zmr1QQdB5Zjdm8UyCP5y5CkEqwZ4r7CW/s320/fc76415bc7e3dfe279d1fbba4a74967e.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Costume Parisian, 1816</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Here is mine:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwKdVkUIUy8MojwhU94qv6jPrbAbuD7wmLdsSwGn030295FutIU_hcDI18eW4vDx4IK5GjGJTn7GH4Mq78WAoXxtG4tGS7qwtTDzZJIY_QJIqrsCHzFCG13HV9IuIB5fd8QGMOwpIIcLY_/s1072/1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="1072" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwKdVkUIUy8MojwhU94qv6jPrbAbuD7wmLdsSwGn030295FutIU_hcDI18eW4vDx4IK5GjGJTn7GH4Mq78WAoXxtG4tGS7qwtTDzZJIY_QJIqrsCHzFCG13HV9IuIB5fd8QGMOwpIIcLY_/s320/1.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Awfnrfs7R0af7JTqUz0ZgsBNoeqDPbFCSnT6ANmVtwvnxMyexX8eWmSBOM4IbvcZLXeaPk6PSrEmWCWknE_hZrfFwPZROrgR93rOYgKV5xuqG78OrN0MjVXKuBpwXizryrjyvbjRZrGQ/s929/2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="929" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Awfnrfs7R0af7JTqUz0ZgsBNoeqDPbFCSnT6ANmVtwvnxMyexX8eWmSBOM4IbvcZLXeaPk6PSrEmWCWknE_hZrfFwPZROrgR93rOYgKV5xuqG78OrN0MjVXKuBpwXizryrjyvbjRZrGQ/s320/2.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">And the finished watercolor box:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUV2r3eKmfYjlZ_unYcsEC9jQwIninCGm_elofCf9frATT3HR5NemELGPXVnhyjU2TM0VUZs8oTOA5N-lvQAlwlwkhU9R3de7nHYMprVHQodfhxdsTRiXIcYTaZAdb1xO0imZ6zu2ZDjMP/s2048/DSCF0006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUV2r3eKmfYjlZ_unYcsEC9jQwIninCGm_elofCf9frATT3HR5NemELGPXVnhyjU2TM0VUZs8oTOA5N-lvQAlwlwkhU9R3de7nHYMprVHQodfhxdsTRiXIcYTaZAdb1xO0imZ6zu2ZDjMP/s320/DSCF0006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuVGn5iT7U5xzAMjvzDdSrQOhGHJ1w51EUqoAb3e0RX_XFHtaZ3IplG_NvW5mduEZRBe8_c3MXvx4utBTdV_6tFQEMFQAXNSj7dU2mJyzGFl8F-HGHFtZMFBX9UaO8y-m3V__NMC2XFxDn/s2048/DSCF0007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuVGn5iT7U5xzAMjvzDdSrQOhGHJ1w51EUqoAb3e0RX_XFHtaZ3IplG_NvW5mduEZRBe8_c3MXvx4utBTdV_6tFQEMFQAXNSj7dU2mJyzGFl8F-HGHFtZMFBX9UaO8y-m3V__NMC2XFxDn/s320/DSCF0007.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRVQ5tJhWDfvhO8vnkfPv1xZ-81fKiP3oQtXsIO2nDJIT9bQ63xw_JZJNFmYYwH5NxTxjQv5Cn7BgiKoGOEoPazpVUd4GEnbb22VYUXC7C9PNUn7jewUgsbxllUJfFmO00E9BBFyK3Hzz/s2048/DSCF0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRVQ5tJhWDfvhO8vnkfPv1xZ-81fKiP3oQtXsIO2nDJIT9bQ63xw_JZJNFmYYwH5NxTxjQv5Cn7BgiKoGOEoPazpVUd4GEnbb22VYUXC7C9PNUn7jewUgsbxllUJfFmO00E9BBFyK3Hzz/s320/DSCF0012.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsrAs5rsINOkj617qzZg85cU9OikxK00OG92wadw4WDxBzfOFP_kp0icteQCACEmpouF72oWUaIYcPcmUvZ8R7MUeMV8AmRYJ5WgntwooT6boVGWG2wol24nnPUUv6XJfgweCCWFHTaKk/s2016/IMG_7294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsrAs5rsINOkj617qzZg85cU9OikxK00OG92wadw4WDxBzfOFP_kp0icteQCACEmpouF72oWUaIYcPcmUvZ8R7MUeMV8AmRYJ5WgntwooT6boVGWG2wol24nnPUUv6XJfgweCCWFHTaKk/s320/IMG_7294.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-37819494289486625012020-12-14T07:00:00.007-08:002020-12-14T07:00:04.478-08:001830s Corset<div style="text-align: left;"> The last installment of the 1830s underpinnings! Now I can finally start working on dresses.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I made my mock up of this pattern last year in December 2019. I machine stitched it because I always knew it would be replaced by a better version eventually. I didn't like how the bust fit, nor the tie on shoulder straps, not to mention I had to take a few big tucks in at the back to make it fit me and those were rather annoying. Thankfully, this, my final version, has none of these issues.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I made this corset almost entirely out of scraps and bits left over from other projects so it didn't cost much at all! I used white cotton sateen for the fabric, copious amounts of sugar'n cream yarn for the cording, lots of German plastic whalebone boning, a bit of metal boning for the center back, some metal grommets, and some silk ribbon. The only things I had to purchase were a wooden busk and some lacing string.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My base is the Laughing Moon romantic corset pattern, view A. The pattern itself fits me very well with very little alteration, although I did have to go down a few sizes to keep my corset from meeting in the back. After cutting out the basic pattern, it was time to go back to originals to see how I could improve on the basic Laughing Moon pattern.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />To make the bust fit better than the mock up (which falls down constantly despite the extra boning put in), I decided to cord the entire gusset area just like this original from the MET.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzsFr57Mgwj3yw-GOL8fEWZFJ3chNK62iB47pOk3qTEnDzac8_Ey8bfY_FOffmhfguLmRrYqt-ENV1ELcZreIOjlPHEf_XkbbopurhrvdNNySua5SXiyMVZ8PyV584b8AbNmrgIGHocvV/s1200/main-image.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1108" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzsFr57Mgwj3yw-GOL8fEWZFJ3chNK62iB47pOk3qTEnDzac8_Ey8bfY_FOffmhfguLmRrYqt-ENV1ELcZreIOjlPHEf_XkbbopurhrvdNNySua5SXiyMVZ8PyV584b8AbNmrgIGHocvV/s320/main-image.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/174219?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;ft=corset&amp;offset=80&amp;rpp=80&amp;pos=93">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1830-1839<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Another way I combatted the falling bust issue is to lengthen the boning and add a bit more. This original shows a more heavily boned corset, especially throughout the bust. I like how the boning goes down to the waist. I didn't add quite so much, but I did lengthen the boning pieces from the pattern's suggestion.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_EOZXfKQokkJTHnBfb33LwPc-UkRtGhTvWyz7Ik_dR6lbgvrq3BjX7YaNj5RrfYXFb8eJK1gw_zb5BbLRZi3EYXBENe_p9uGoQA-VSOkV5PRdlvjVIhoi1d_Ouq7YDpNOM3yan2JmaIMc/s1200/main-image+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="864" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_EOZXfKQokkJTHnBfb33LwPc-UkRtGhTvWyz7Ik_dR6lbgvrq3BjX7YaNj5RrfYXFb8eJK1gw_zb5BbLRZi3EYXBENe_p9uGoQA-VSOkV5PRdlvjVIhoi1d_Ouq7YDpNOM3yan2JmaIMc/s320/main-image+%25282%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86410?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;ft=corset&amp;offset=80&amp;rpp=80&amp;pos=106">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1833<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Most originals do show the entire set of stays backstitched, but there are originals that show the exterior stitching being done with a running stitch. I copied those originals purely for my sanity throughout this project.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNJRJOkXcAr_M1PNdBFd7fOiPMTv2XSYOruEy2-dCjgxUQDUJiO8q0nNt_WqvYIzoETzV8wyTK88oxlDt4t4JLETQJpPVkEC2Os2R_H0IIyc1x6c5TQ-jESlUFXTNFRdo6OTIFwhLHPnV/s1200/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="913" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNJRJOkXcAr_M1PNdBFd7fOiPMTv2XSYOruEy2-dCjgxUQDUJiO8q0nNt_WqvYIzoETzV8wyTK88oxlDt4t4JLETQJpPVkEC2Os2R_H0IIyc1x6c5TQ-jESlUFXTNFRdo6OTIFwhLHPnV/s320/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158143?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;ft=corset&amp;offset=0&amp;rpp=80&amp;pos=76">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1815-1825<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br />For decoration, I knew it needed to be fancy. Sarah, after all, would be able to afford the best. I considered heavy embroidery but decided against it-again citing my own sanity. I did find a rather simple embroidery design using a herringbone stitch pattern that I decided to use instead. I, however, opted for a feather stitch instead of the herringbone pattern.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg3WDhVdCJBJn4MKYvKbY80t74efDmqf6pIpjzK4RpkHkAXSJHxHW6-Qdrwp5HBzq2fSUgitR52aiAHgcpbugbj-eYxJDt2Ya5w8uJlmsAQfZFWWlWxRzqajKkzWoElMfqMX1DMx_jlDk_/s1200/main-image+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="759" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg3WDhVdCJBJn4MKYvKbY80t74efDmqf6pIpjzK4RpkHkAXSJHxHW6-Qdrwp5HBzq2fSUgitR52aiAHgcpbugbj-eYxJDt2Ya5w8uJlmsAQfZFWWlWxRzqajKkzWoElMfqMX1DMx_jlDk_/s320/main-image+%25283%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86405?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;ft=corset&amp;offset=80&amp;rpp=80&amp;pos=97">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1830s<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Instead, my eventual design outside of embroidery came out to be a rather hodge-podge of originals. The top front (basically to the end of the gussets) is based on this original. I only added cording to help support the bust.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmluLur5o-RdhNnLTfdyJl_LJoZ6FF6hyrcP4df_KMzqo6h8HIQhIC6iqZjbzF8yomlZBdeULAdTeEuTIUPJZeZqYeZTBHZcy9ll9YRWFN6Cn4XMvadV5m7ETM4hWgNvfQakHpVANEyNiy/s705/0b3583749251c4f95489cbc226d8e7dc.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="705" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmluLur5o-RdhNnLTfdyJl_LJoZ6FF6hyrcP4df_KMzqo6h8HIQhIC6iqZjbzF8yomlZBdeULAdTeEuTIUPJZeZqYeZTBHZcy9ll9YRWFN6Cn4XMvadV5m7ETM4hWgNvfQakHpVANEyNiy/s320/0b3583749251c4f95489cbc226d8e7dc.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown collection<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Lots of boning going down to the waist, very little embroidery (although I added some around the gussets as in the previous original).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">From gussets down, I copied this original.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVHRPdio15xxDiErayaiE6eH7JuxLqGgS5Wt3otULhSjjKSpL2pPc5SKzoQLbLCGu6TR0x00H6BBm5MrRlIxiMMhFQgsJnK0xJdggi8N8ah4CIX_wE-Btm5iFp0wtiXCvFR-uSek_Ld5fX/s600/a99d93cbca0f97ef180d8588a08ecd0d.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVHRPdio15xxDiErayaiE6eH7JuxLqGgS5Wt3otULhSjjKSpL2pPc5SKzoQLbLCGu6TR0x00H6BBm5MrRlIxiMMhFQgsJnK0xJdggi8N8ah4CIX_wE-Btm5iFp0wtiXCvFR-uSek_Ld5fX/s320/a99d93cbca0f97ef180d8588a08ecd0d.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138890/corset-unknown/">V&A Museum</a>, 1825-1835<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">And another view of the same corset, this time from the side. Look at all that boning! This will be a very supportive corset!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_0MQPWftM3zbVGmkGhrLlZ2-v1yhHpqCKMQA6i6GePlYIgQH_0vSFbAY-N2R8nUpZJyKUqc0IH-WibALeBRyHp1WpUteAMMqFae99OUBwF1aqGIVlbYT5V6__EnygmlzGDWvBqNroa2u/s600/804f1c68e60443f81e36257f198a3b27.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="477" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_0MQPWftM3zbVGmkGhrLlZ2-v1yhHpqCKMQA6i6GePlYIgQH_0vSFbAY-N2R8nUpZJyKUqc0IH-WibALeBRyHp1WpUteAMMqFae99OUBwF1aqGIVlbYT5V6__EnygmlzGDWvBqNroa2u/s320/804f1c68e60443f81e36257f198a3b27.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The only thing I really changed was to do the embroidery seen above instead of the wavy thing going on in this corset. I also added embroidery to the hip gussets to match the bust gussets. The bones also received a fair bit of flossing on the top and bottom to hold them in place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib9_mYzKE6SkvS1B3I6Ep0LmOyP0R0-8IlCK5FFlEyS8ho1uHelLZsFij0i4HDMqUGOkYqbbe34_g07fpjNz9YXdWFs-FEiD9qbPnbeeY9vmIiTc0Snae87O-K637ol1aB0CS5wVdVbMUb/s2016/IMG_7266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib9_mYzKE6SkvS1B3I6Ep0LmOyP0R0-8IlCK5FFlEyS8ho1uHelLZsFij0i4HDMqUGOkYqbbe34_g07fpjNz9YXdWFs-FEiD9qbPnbeeY9vmIiTc0Snae87O-K637ol1aB0CS5wVdVbMUb/s320/IMG_7266.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dMa06kWEMMQk6OtPNYq3uiO9IhRdZu7Xox3SjoHH0zr65IaXLVwNLToW3bq_iHSIQlCVs3hVCC-EZPQOAwaSZB6qMy22LnGUN2a2L5ZIgmmJivvic4pbui087TWgDbzE9Xn4VpJw6u9u/s2016/IMG_7267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dMa06kWEMMQk6OtPNYq3uiO9IhRdZu7Xox3SjoHH0zr65IaXLVwNLToW3bq_iHSIQlCVs3hVCC-EZPQOAwaSZB6qMy22LnGUN2a2L5ZIgmmJivvic4pbui087TWgDbzE9Xn4VpJw6u9u/s320/IMG_7267.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsMSgRlMX0Xq3HooHSa28y_fyUj32Lt8V2p1MNa3oJq1tf015O1ck2KyDC8SRaP2zV7Of46vZGL2lutEXLPVvPFP9GJdigbaQLO89iSLyUGTdDn1Kh1WBJWYH-I9byxy1RyV2KS_c2dvY/s2016/IMG_7262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsMSgRlMX0Xq3HooHSa28y_fyUj32Lt8V2p1MNa3oJq1tf015O1ck2KyDC8SRaP2zV7Of46vZGL2lutEXLPVvPFP9GJdigbaQLO89iSLyUGTdDn1Kh1WBJWYH-I9byxy1RyV2KS_c2dvY/s320/IMG_7262.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzhMcLpp-IYSPxQAQqlbe1Mw9xWfyzYzEeDQTX7XHy2MPbrOuo8C80XRFmXuPpbsYr2k6o5KtRKeUyGf_N4o0o-ksVXdL39lNNhatI8hnckM_LhKoSK5eQLgxiT8Ao9NbCgA8WZ30C88N/s2016/IMG_7263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzhMcLpp-IYSPxQAQqlbe1Mw9xWfyzYzEeDQTX7XHy2MPbrOuo8C80XRFmXuPpbsYr2k6o5KtRKeUyGf_N4o0o-ksVXdL39lNNhatI8hnckM_LhKoSK5eQLgxiT8Ao9NbCgA8WZ30C88N/s320/IMG_7263.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This corset closes with a spiral lacing as opposed to my typical 'bunny ears' style. I considered fan lacing but decided to leave that for another day.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">With all the fitting issues fixed and the added support in the back and bust, I think this corset turned out lovely! Now we can start working on dresses.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFjyIYXziqjc0aNQvsYzt4eOygDPI6bYUW4cUKaFEVDfNrpk76nKvLvzqMcAB9XeBxSEPiKEOWg9Ow23EYQooboTv5QIJw-rdyraUNgOCvCedlipZeArsvBwWrAltPF6dVU5m4xkhQ1Kj/s2016/IMG_7264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFjyIYXziqjc0aNQvsYzt4eOygDPI6bYUW4cUKaFEVDfNrpk76nKvLvzqMcAB9XeBxSEPiKEOWg9Ow23EYQooboTv5QIJw-rdyraUNgOCvCedlipZeArsvBwWrAltPF6dVU5m4xkhQ1Kj/s320/IMG_7264.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji0ki8lqK63PYQvEpUjy4lcNqQtibCSm-rMDmTNdggWAFEFPWt4N2Yg6LTH3kR_Uu3du8w9utkJJe_5eOtyS_veJL5j6kSu2K9oyeU2yVzPkwzYGHxT-UM2VZ67m44olp4oRiXAZt5704l/s2016/IMG_7265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji0ki8lqK63PYQvEpUjy4lcNqQtibCSm-rMDmTNdggWAFEFPWt4N2Yg6LTH3kR_Uu3du8w9utkJJe_5eOtyS_veJL5j6kSu2K9oyeU2yVzPkwzYGHxT-UM2VZ67m44olp4oRiXAZt5704l/s320/IMG_7265.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg19edZIpcbJAn0k6a8ZCRf_gI6j1-lZK0OvdwCQCL9yOzJe6MdPcx2PuifND8j7NWqkXlVZzpONNYHsrpHGQD-QRabjS5Pt1hNB0ZwPbiXPS4mfMtUOcP8RcWMc_A-jqxipbC_LoGwwC2/s2016/IMG_7268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg19edZIpcbJAn0k6a8ZCRf_gI6j1-lZK0OvdwCQCL9yOzJe6MdPcx2PuifND8j7NWqkXlVZzpONNYHsrpHGQD-QRabjS5Pt1hNB0ZwPbiXPS4mfMtUOcP8RcWMc_A-jqxipbC_LoGwwC2/s320/IMG_7268.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf4bp0PpMfnxr3rAMP6lHSE7XgdviCWL5-aNs_GrT98lvN8kQAb4hCrp3XyrHSnMBeqTdGQ25D-O7-EdThpsWVP-Epop83BOKCq0BccLOAZnKZ7o2MBL3RIBZy_Exjey_1kCXG7dm6sDlZ/s602/Corset1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="582" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf4bp0PpMfnxr3rAMP6lHSE7XgdviCWL5-aNs_GrT98lvN8kQAb4hCrp3XyrHSnMBeqTdGQ25D-O7-EdThpsWVP-Epop83BOKCq0BccLOAZnKZ7o2MBL3RIBZy_Exjey_1kCXG7dm6sDlZ/s320/Corset1.png" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipoHPmZCEBXNbHEcb3W7c27PlBhkQrieuKCOPz7GK79qiMCibLcghtLmVbfp7z-xIf8S9nROby2dadZzdVqzVt7wWxUHqeGIwESiKEZ2MPfwLEqzas438A0STRKpvygtLS8gEkZ8vY8P77/s601/Corset2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="511" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipoHPmZCEBXNbHEcb3W7c27PlBhkQrieuKCOPz7GK79qiMCibLcghtLmVbfp7z-xIf8S9nROby2dadZzdVqzVt7wWxUHqeGIwESiKEZ2MPfwLEqzas438A0STRKpvygtLS8gEkZ8vY8P77/s320/Corset2.png" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ApusvxtG4hAWmMPyLyG4Wh00JRHdFQ10DKJlSsjtfTKw6VPGOTB2SkOfsJG-i_rFA4A_8V2HXDYD3os9FG8Z3AnKzLVDYIze9m40vLuXBOJRW-aE0EhcvONLDyIIeu-SGDoYmFdU6uMG/s648/Corset3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="648" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ApusvxtG4hAWmMPyLyG4Wh00JRHdFQ10DKJlSsjtfTKw6VPGOTB2SkOfsJG-i_rFA4A_8V2HXDYD3os9FG8Z3AnKzLVDYIze9m40vLuXBOJRW-aE0EhcvONLDyIIeu-SGDoYmFdU6uMG/s320/Corset3.png" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div><p></p><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-45853476783433133442020-12-07T07:00:00.011-08:002020-12-07T07:00:00.285-08:00An 1850s Blue Checked GownThis is another gown from the costume closet that needed some little updates. I made this gown about 2 years ago, and although it was done very well, there was just a few things that needed to be done.<div><br /></div><div>The fabric is a lovely large scale blue checked silk taffeta fabric I bought at Fabric Mart Fabrics at one of their $8/yard or $12/yard sales. I can't remember exactly how much I paid for it.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgxOvtxXY9zOSs_nt-bLa-dtCnk4Fwgv8y9BCxe-1uDebemDGwNx2fDZpEFCEsEK4eUDwFfct-aR3FnrNO_79bdxQxQjT595WoyAljExPdaTSmHpcsGy50_m5Jj9F_N7Tk9VnBdOx0hyphenhyphenk/s2016/IMG_7289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZgxOvtxXY9zOSs_nt-bLa-dtCnk4Fwgv8y9BCxe-1uDebemDGwNx2fDZpEFCEsEK4eUDwFfct-aR3FnrNO_79bdxQxQjT595WoyAljExPdaTSmHpcsGy50_m5Jj9F_N7Tk9VnBdOx0hyphenhyphenk/s320/IMG_7289.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It very much reminds me of the fabric this beautiful lady is wearing:</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujkzN7AwmALMCuN3WYSHFJLagIeJ10-8fIej6f4MX2_0GuQFmFJFlaeJU2UpZKtpN95gIsRF_hTMvVjYtuyrf_k4tbXJPHSC3Hm-6e88gIZgRq0GTjWTY5996YKqQU1XdPvrvufWw4OSF/s553/b039707e353f446ae7cb7680f4ce51bb.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="499" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujkzN7AwmALMCuN3WYSHFJLagIeJ10-8fIej6f4MX2_0GuQFmFJFlaeJU2UpZKtpN95gIsRF_hTMvVjYtuyrf_k4tbXJPHSC3Hm-6e88gIZgRq0GTjWTY5996YKqQU1XdPvrvufWw4OSF/s320/b039707e353f446ae7cb7680f4ce51bb.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown source<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>The basic design of the day dress was based off that photograph and also this original:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZeVsL0VyzPGDuhatjp4DNC06RQTE34YxpWMbWWQCx5h_u1heULDhasD9jcdeoi7f6QgqxweO363gKhiGHctIlr8kZupjyFPJEXoIoxVsK940OaN_BEm90s0jMAz5daBng_cP1ijiifd9Y/s864/f6d00637539deb5e178d5a00d82b5de7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="543" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZeVsL0VyzPGDuhatjp4DNC06RQTE34YxpWMbWWQCx5h_u1heULDhasD9jcdeoi7f6QgqxweO363gKhiGHctIlr8kZupjyFPJEXoIoxVsK940OaN_BEm90s0jMAz5daBng_cP1ijiifd9Y/s320/f6d00637539deb5e178d5a00d82b5de7.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ebay</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>First of all, the day bodice needed boning put in. I also added some cute little glass buttons as decoration (more on the buttons later). Afterwards, the only thing to do was to attach a real collar and undersleeves. This set I hand embroidered from an 1853 Godey's Lady's Book pattern.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63u8H7rcQnrmPfP47c58hMpvjCqSacJDq6DohHoQcA2d10423tpGObVppKoK7BCo1jJ2tzO7R2G456Vnp6ekua4nGd8pkWUucMY7Ix2w_sqS3PB_2pc1Lp-shfYBGMEvBlwj4ciLhcAR3/s912/e702ec9b42d3792ac82954022077f512.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63u8H7rcQnrmPfP47c58hMpvjCqSacJDq6DohHoQcA2d10423tpGObVppKoK7BCo1jJ2tzO7R2G456Vnp6ekua4nGd8pkWUucMY7Ix2w_sqS3PB_2pc1Lp-shfYBGMEvBlwj4ciLhcAR3/s320/e702ec9b42d3792ac82954022077f512.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7jPTKeVU1ctKUd8r0VFdq2kLSr7xnOB6eSLUeJypt6JbSJG1mJeOqaarKg04HvW7clqMv21MHvep6PNMiG_lAYo2mJuyH4wFNPtAPYEO8E33WT2QkvX64qG9Q5LGWmxl8khdrDNbQOaF/s2016/IMG_7291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7jPTKeVU1ctKUd8r0VFdq2kLSr7xnOB6eSLUeJypt6JbSJG1mJeOqaarKg04HvW7clqMv21MHvep6PNMiG_lAYo2mJuyH4wFNPtAPYEO8E33WT2QkvX64qG9Q5LGWmxl8khdrDNbQOaF/s320/IMG_7291.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The Book only had the collar pattern so I modified the same design for the undersleeves. I also have plans for a matching handkerchief but that is still getting embroidered. For the undersleeves, I chose a design that seems to be quite popular among surviving originals.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxpVdgozfike7AM8UoOK3btt9nsy6hX0p_9c_WmSGEVDOeGY_OZYXqBzzk4qt1VkO_5MRawCP6txDekxdquYk5dyLFXHM4PfSBFLN3TA02jf26DBjtHlI9oWiMSQ40FfZoMTXgCDMOK_3J/s320/2d79e0084c9aea8fa3c6b6dac2c0a1b1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxpVdgozfike7AM8UoOK3btt9nsy6hX0p_9c_WmSGEVDOeGY_OZYXqBzzk4qt1VkO_5MRawCP6txDekxdquYk5dyLFXHM4PfSBFLN3TA02jf26DBjtHlI9oWiMSQ40FfZoMTXgCDMOK_3J/s0/2d79e0084c9aea8fa3c6b6dac2c0a1b1.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ebay</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkz5HS2VmJyKmAu-iOm0Uj9ShEK8x4qocRJHFyyOOLMKLWL_ySf1wcnRjrnyAD7vBH46TQmx7QrQpfr-Ov4ox5c0Xe8XuaJ68Q_9PLsV7EWbVGNsdF8qvuTWRTh8spA3pvhrZWoWrmGpNs/s564/65cd4f6a61fab6efb5adac03b33461a4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkz5HS2VmJyKmAu-iOm0Uj9ShEK8x4qocRJHFyyOOLMKLWL_ySf1wcnRjrnyAD7vBH46TQmx7QrQpfr-Ov4ox5c0Xe8XuaJ68Q_9PLsV7EWbVGNsdF8qvuTWRTh8spA3pvhrZWoWrmGpNs/s320/65cd4f6a61fab6efb5adac03b33461a4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum of Fine Arts, Boston<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>I think they turned out cute!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXD9RhE2q9DSihiXaBEiJG1J7zzKQDUDd4dk_qTMq7EuOxy4_Cdk9r8S8rB4AGltCw-HppfhOjoEUjsdQgGnl4A0rO2by_g5ZGdaz_2-G932hQrou6vz9XFk9c_nMFkysdkLo3LHhUMEk/s2016/IMG_7292.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXD9RhE2q9DSihiXaBEiJG1J7zzKQDUDd4dk_qTMq7EuOxy4_Cdk9r8S8rB4AGltCw-HppfhOjoEUjsdQgGnl4A0rO2by_g5ZGdaz_2-G932hQrou6vz9XFk9c_nMFkysdkLo3LHhUMEk/s320/IMG_7292.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The trim idea I got from a few different originals. Now that I have made this dress, I don't think I'll ever put velvet ribbon on top of fringe again, but you do see originals with this treatment so it is by no means incorrect.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiEZDnwPurksMsurt50Abk6IWd2ibnvgt8XOCPz-VxQqtSpt6JwdvCj0_OE8RP1bpnKNMFeaszxZ0XuI6s_ZHbgZAhQq6YQuEb1hwOdUn1IPPYUadNIH7ehrGDqVwVrj3HRCGBhuMXIu1D/s801/f506dcf94af420aac3d3c9f71f6a4ad2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="801" data-original-width="534" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiEZDnwPurksMsurt50Abk6IWd2ibnvgt8XOCPz-VxQqtSpt6JwdvCj0_OE8RP1bpnKNMFeaszxZ0XuI6s_ZHbgZAhQq6YQuEb1hwOdUn1IPPYUadNIH7ehrGDqVwVrj3HRCGBhuMXIu1D/s320/f506dcf94af420aac3d3c9f71f6a4ad2.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSbomt8mHGXhpO2RkCZJicaE6F-bkgXrG88d8TWMrV-FQynxE71_eR7xUMNL-jP31atKGG-N1xz7lZoqsbhmLtUJ_ZplxwpD4o2sAoqUKRs4ReKRfjVwrH29SVbmsV1zH1s9oYA9IBuPmu/s718/7dcb301eacb36b1e76f546614c2cf3da.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="718" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSbomt8mHGXhpO2RkCZJicaE6F-bkgXrG88d8TWMrV-FQynxE71_eR7xUMNL-jP31atKGG-N1xz7lZoqsbhmLtUJ_ZplxwpD4o2sAoqUKRs4ReKRfjVwrH29SVbmsV1zH1s9oYA9IBuPmu/s320/7dcb301eacb36b1e76f546614c2cf3da.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ebay</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieRHt_HvlrRdRBe_9uZ1Qi26v_wyNwoIXth2oeIwSdChZdZDuRMbqKPUxF6qN1Hds20D1RjLSSkEj3OHBb0Ef06sS6VX8p-wEXYgxONR4hBPb-_324pK8JUI97e8fldDPlwY00BldvPPDj/s2048/DSCF0003.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieRHt_HvlrRdRBe_9uZ1Qi26v_wyNwoIXth2oeIwSdChZdZDuRMbqKPUxF6qN1Hds20D1RjLSSkEj3OHBb0Ef06sS6VX8p-wEXYgxONR4hBPb-_324pK8JUI97e8fldDPlwY00BldvPPDj/s320/DSCF0003.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMAolxt0zudw7fBTTm2Kmckr_Ta4tigY4sMFfc8Pt4eIsHN1__HkpXA0dsSV8hqggHO2hlWP4jXYethgwrvj0556n3kY6kF_AgaUn0DrYMk3oNJOfhQH1BEG5vrM-3I_j811Dd1VzYSIT/s2048/DSCF0004.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcMAolxt0zudw7fBTTm2Kmckr_Ta4tigY4sMFfc8Pt4eIsHN1__HkpXA0dsSV8hqggHO2hlWP4jXYethgwrvj0556n3kY6kF_AgaUn0DrYMk3oNJOfhQH1BEG5vrM-3I_j811Dd1VzYSIT/s320/DSCF0004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqad5Q5KysfynVqBky18mIzajIOqTJkRep588nG6iB50MAm_SXW3maSycrirH1lcukxOyvrv29A4npC7FQWYapQy8yPBTZoWy3-zPdQA9NqB3fubxYT7OTzfjWyyJcZrd3X2vOHb1Tg7GT/s2048/DSCF0006.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqad5Q5KysfynVqBky18mIzajIOqTJkRep588nG6iB50MAm_SXW3maSycrirH1lcukxOyvrv29A4npC7FQWYapQy8yPBTZoWy3-zPdQA9NqB3fubxYT7OTzfjWyyJcZrd3X2vOHb1Tg7GT/s320/DSCF0006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2eLXjTML7CmBLmd32r10ImYEZubWaqQMppFv1gmGX4qhHw0l7lFDPCXnLHRa3XuHYUKPrIvLI8Ajwt-5bt4GLNSAGVyWQH8T_ClmPo5Rh_hiEx7vTSFDNnQQb-eDwl5qt7fBuhbgjJY_p/s2048/DSCF0008.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2eLXjTML7CmBLmd32r10ImYEZubWaqQMppFv1gmGX4qhHw0l7lFDPCXnLHRa3XuHYUKPrIvLI8Ajwt-5bt4GLNSAGVyWQH8T_ClmPo5Rh_hiEx7vTSFDNnQQb-eDwl5qt7fBuhbgjJY_p/s320/DSCF0008.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The main part of this project was making an evening bodice. The design was a somewhat simplified version of these two originals:</div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgilJTZ6gS6hv7SOhV-4fAeGr0KHWc25i_ZzxS-q4HmrJDwydFPc1YQGBfV7AdvLEj_MNC_I-A912hyphenhyphenFT43e9uZQbIMyFvuirT_YnZzlULstXI8_3lb2C2JklGMTHR3A_wmWpP-a6bQ48kA/s600/3114ad71946270a9270dd128bed5eb69.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="491" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgilJTZ6gS6hv7SOhV-4fAeGr0KHWc25i_ZzxS-q4HmrJDwydFPc1YQGBfV7AdvLEj_MNC_I-A912hyphenhyphenFT43e9uZQbIMyFvuirT_YnZzlULstXI8_3lb2C2JklGMTHR3A_wmWpP-a6bQ48kA/s320/3114ad71946270a9270dd128bed5eb69.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Victoria & Albert Museum</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ6tFlOQ23sXLc6G5vgFBzf8KmRjQ6I5O-2ix7JPnqy6ZqrfMClJuFtQd9yEXUpEQiQtKh3YAHoVHMCC15bN9ixcVmsqkpyaEOwhzOkHWkEyWKNAOeL_06ACSsptW1wo07MeWU3LVjqC6C/s400/c13e43b26e5c5f0c6f254a81fe99b8b6.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ6tFlOQ23sXLc6G5vgFBzf8KmRjQ6I5O-2ix7JPnqy6ZqrfMClJuFtQd9yEXUpEQiQtKh3YAHoVHMCC15bN9ixcVmsqkpyaEOwhzOkHWkEyWKNAOeL_06ACSsptW1wo07MeWU3LVjqC6C/s320/c13e43b26e5c5f0c6f254a81fe99b8b6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ebay</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The button idea came from a multitude of sources, but here is a dress with lace surrounded buttons.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxWUXVNOn0omUxVLWFBGfaSGmlcKVknykOy7MXRGenHj-WHabGeCNtO3ClZec7brvoU0wHY7jD5kOI6nF9hBLstY67fK2jlrls4FqYTSeq90tzfXQidQOxoghaNFiMTsNx50mt6111JNMd/s766/But.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="766" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxWUXVNOn0omUxVLWFBGfaSGmlcKVknykOy7MXRGenHj-WHabGeCNtO3ClZec7brvoU0wHY7jD5kOI6nF9hBLstY67fK2jlrls4FqYTSeq90tzfXQidQOxoghaNFiMTsNx50mt6111JNMd/s320/But.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/90855?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ao=on&amp;ft=dress&amp;offset=1040&amp;rpp=80&amp;pos=1108">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Overall, I'm happy with the result!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUuPNlchp4zI6afe_p3COIutg9Cf5wA9lDTni0XA4FWD3cQCfyyzJVZOFHsqnP8OY9uwhGW1Pc_QF57kfdx6Zxe7cDWn3MXRFDS867hyphenhyphenGrSYvcC0gjO2InymS6IRsaTFq-rGxkkY88oQcC/s2048/DSCF0011.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUuPNlchp4zI6afe_p3COIutg9Cf5wA9lDTni0XA4FWD3cQCfyyzJVZOFHsqnP8OY9uwhGW1Pc_QF57kfdx6Zxe7cDWn3MXRFDS867hyphenhyphenGrSYvcC0gjO2InymS6IRsaTFq-rGxkkY88oQcC/s320/DSCF0011.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAja0V4KZdPyaPJRkRLdrSz7-KRjQRbRu8PbjKlPmhrMRbh7Vx7DiDKenFXU3NEVpiuQTq3RDFtLN1v2t0aA0n0wrDx1IlqG5AQPbKjb0uvpNwLzT7Vg7qF42xMHFUnIEPHjpfLjCyKNvB/s2048/DSCF0013.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAja0V4KZdPyaPJRkRLdrSz7-KRjQRbRu8PbjKlPmhrMRbh7Vx7DiDKenFXU3NEVpiuQTq3RDFtLN1v2t0aA0n0wrDx1IlqG5AQPbKjb0uvpNwLzT7Vg7qF42xMHFUnIEPHjpfLjCyKNvB/s320/DSCF0013.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiet_dGRMnjrUaMd5t94_bJPkIjYBkzU0vMg0tLCZbvb0A5Ndz1CZ55exqaSpMWTDN4wHCFhQPFS46IPC5botUy_5NR6GzIO2OZq8cAFajhk-6aMl0jeU6hz9Q_q_rrXueWacJV4I6Jpzre/s2048/DSCF0016.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiet_dGRMnjrUaMd5t94_bJPkIjYBkzU0vMg0tLCZbvb0A5Ndz1CZ55exqaSpMWTDN4wHCFhQPFS46IPC5botUy_5NR6GzIO2OZq8cAFajhk-6aMl0jeU6hz9Q_q_rrXueWacJV4I6Jpzre/s320/DSCF0016.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ToJ7zgpsw1fiiuFS1fiK6knwBO-viaTe6bqFApGV1uJCIjsSLk5d0FCX8uAKRUdalddIyKpa3aH-aV-GPC8rbfTBHetoDipLzwB5urPUSwVpeId1N23OElqNpg1Je7n9ZBSMsoi4-9We/s2048/DSCF0018.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ToJ7zgpsw1fiiuFS1fiK6knwBO-viaTe6bqFApGV1uJCIjsSLk5d0FCX8uAKRUdalddIyKpa3aH-aV-GPC8rbfTBHetoDipLzwB5urPUSwVpeId1N23OElqNpg1Je7n9ZBSMsoi4-9We/s320/DSCF0018.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTL2CwgUpTTvXuehFAQ8KTPOGLnjT3PHBiRZVVN5-EqVg5K6cwzotD1n8sCdLwdHlEEiR0POlQkGI2CktFnhGQxo22TDsIjLRIFFlXHQ5-WOXV2HkQol_E_kc-t5DzUBHyP26urq6eYiGh/s2048/DSCF0021.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTL2CwgUpTTvXuehFAQ8KTPOGLnjT3PHBiRZVVN5-EqVg5K6cwzotD1n8sCdLwdHlEEiR0POlQkGI2CktFnhGQxo22TDsIjLRIFFlXHQ5-WOXV2HkQol_E_kc-t5DzUBHyP26urq6eYiGh/s320/DSCF0021.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-85870453287359320482020-11-30T07:00:00.001-08:002020-11-30T07:00:03.040-08:001830s Sleeve Support Puffs<div style="text-align: left;"> Ah, yes, the 'how' part of getting those gigantic 1830s sleeves. I opted for a canned version instead of stuffing with wool roving. I figured this way would be cooler. All that was needed was some white cotton and some cane. The sleeve plumpers are based off originals such as these:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwKlF1llhyphenhyphenhnJPorLRp-DV8GDu8FAytce9OO31_KqgIN8bPrt2PWq-xWAiVKm9yHEWNWGXUOoFmT23JJuMVD4zh6tuUnJL-kspauPbZS4i0KrFPiVh5gvUuaqu4kcYRjAleOvp1Y-WOtC/s564/304f6f98d25c6daea78b859daf2bb02d.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="422" data-original-width="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwKlF1llhyphenhyphenhnJPorLRp-DV8GDu8FAytce9OO31_KqgIN8bPrt2PWq-xWAiVKm9yHEWNWGXUOoFmT23JJuMVD4zh6tuUnJL-kspauPbZS4i0KrFPiVh5gvUuaqu4kcYRjAleOvp1Y-WOtC/s320/304f6f98d25c6daea78b859daf2bb02d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.nms.ac.uk/explore-our-collections/collection-search-results/search.axd?command=getcontent&server=Detail&value=PF1029007">National Museums of Scotland</a>, 1830s<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3gS4AsPa2uSMbsanZou-Ix2jKtPUVq9dgcGe_FFyv_x_bYVwNhwNXhDaxmcIxPHmx1_ttuS20eRalrHoSFyYM3ml_O3XEn3kFjjOga5RrefA2AAek91dBwG7cQwogfLiFVHsy75g8YjBg/s335/ae736a6db65f07af8d7f60d7fca1fc70.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="335" data-original-width="225" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3gS4AsPa2uSMbsanZou-Ix2jKtPUVq9dgcGe_FFyv_x_bYVwNhwNXhDaxmcIxPHmx1_ttuS20eRalrHoSFyYM3ml_O3XEn3kFjjOga5RrefA2AAek91dBwG7cQwogfLiFVHsy75g8YjBg/s320/ae736a6db65f07af8d7f60d7fca1fc70.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82081?img=0&imgNo=1&tabName=related-objects">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1828<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Mine are more closely copied from the first originals.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It does seem (and so it bears mentioning) that the stuffed version of sleeve supports was much more popular in the period than boned versions. I suppose because they are easier to figure out-they are just giant pillows! But I hadn't seen anyone make a boned version and wanted to see how it would work out. Plus, these are a whole lot lighter than wool stuffed pillows on my arms!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The Workwoman's Guide does not have directions for sleeve supports but on page 89, there are engravings and directions for several short sleeves which the author states could also be used as petticoat sleeves. Now I'm sure she's meaning sleeves for a petticoat body, or a full dress petticoat, but the pattern looked about right to mimic the sleeve puffs from Scotland, so I used that pattern.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The Scottish puffs have the most wonderful zoom feature where you can see each and every stitch that went into them. That was how I determined that there were canes both horizontal and vertical in the puffs. They are of course hand stitched and are cut on the bias, just as the WWG describes. I couldn't tell if the sleeves had a lining which formed the cane casings or if they made bias little channels. I opted for channels as that seemed easier to me.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I used a total of five channels per puff-two vertical and three horizontal just like the originals. I used lengths of rattan cane for the 'boning' bits as I had a TON left over from a failed parasol project (well, not really failed-I just had to buy wider cane. So now I have lots of this thinner stuff. I am currently taking project requests that use a LOT of cane). They were then gathered into a band both at the top and bottom and the top had little cotton ties added on. The middle cane I cut 36" long, the top 30", and the bottom 20".</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Ug6fUp1uVAikStoyHPfCQkG2F0NH9Ary5JKvDZMYESNQkyUsmPBw2hFOEwNuyTUDjH9Nx9Ae6twylujpx8uBub9R3w1DGlAslkdIWWHz2eM4hQ8CPxMfAfbV18cOloNJfdLpgfi10LoU/s2016/IMG_7201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Ug6fUp1uVAikStoyHPfCQkG2F0NH9Ary5JKvDZMYESNQkyUsmPBw2hFOEwNuyTUDjH9Nx9Ae6twylujpx8uBub9R3w1DGlAslkdIWWHz2eM4hQ8CPxMfAfbV18cOloNJfdLpgfi10LoU/s320/IMG_7201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2vUi2TRyCO9lnm-egPKSfLrjqCEF3i_CUAdnhxxOnDw5d96BgDDm56T49WaRxz850hLNFWBWvAEdfjwcdAmp-GiSWnDAKobLBfXJmigT_wm-P3QGcbe7spEldWCnNimeXBI0O4DnIKnM/s2016/IMG_7202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2vUi2TRyCO9lnm-egPKSfLrjqCEF3i_CUAdnhxxOnDw5d96BgDDm56T49WaRxz850hLNFWBWvAEdfjwcdAmp-GiSWnDAKobLBfXJmigT_wm-P3QGcbe7spEldWCnNimeXBI0O4DnIKnM/s320/IMG_7202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4jxsx4nx2b1L96rZMDFo0k5RjiCWObj7a-eAHkTZnzJYGhYdiiJnOTxCu1K2rfHljL2mlUziT5B34Xw9GAnOCkSavgxlS_STf6NPIkrUbRllopDj3jNVgLNV1J2pNch-86stn57uhfR9/s2016/IMG_7203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4jxsx4nx2b1L96rZMDFo0k5RjiCWObj7a-eAHkTZnzJYGhYdiiJnOTxCu1K2rfHljL2mlUziT5B34Xw9GAnOCkSavgxlS_STf6NPIkrUbRllopDj3jNVgLNV1J2pNch-86stn57uhfR9/s320/IMG_7203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wah4FYgHtWfdehYY2DhggnWu0HYabz761RrQkhVcQIlYuZTttqRzL3wORdZ40WhIkGtwCiwbzWROiz8HRDlSTPtn565cXThY35_kgSqE4sj8OLQr-1o2dKHEyyXTVnQ8U8_CoE_NZKaA/s2016/IMG_7204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4wah4FYgHtWfdehYY2DhggnWu0HYabz761RrQkhVcQIlYuZTttqRzL3wORdZ40WhIkGtwCiwbzWROiz8HRDlSTPtn565cXThY35_kgSqE4sj8OLQr-1o2dKHEyyXTVnQ8U8_CoE_NZKaA/s320/IMG_7204.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-28528886798347251782020-11-23T06:30:00.001-08:002020-11-23T06:32:32.758-08:001830s Shifts, or Chemises<div style="text-align: left;"> Okay, I've finally stopped dragging my feet in doing actual important 1830s projects... let's build a wardrobe! Starting with shifts! I'm making two today. Currently, I don't foresee doing more than one day events with the 1830s and a good rule of thumb is to have fresh underthings for each day of your event plus an extra pair. Therefore, two seems to be about right for right now.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />I used the directions on page 46 of "The Workwoman's Guide"-the gored shifts. I tried doing the gusseted ones last time but they didn't turn out so I'm going a different route. It's an earlier style, more regency, but as the WWG was published in 1838, still applicable to 1836. There are many museums that have collections of similar chemises.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJJi7GEevVFq9f44U9gaa-pwcwtHezB_cE4X2TiorRt8iDNiRakxfjnmSEIHa-z76RKKaK_zcDM7kI1T3k5Yz7DANlJsF0ztnVOsJIEZO-bhTDr74rJv4-KrNP0ZeNi6-7u0O0JnubEEw/s1600/SC36312.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1244" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJJi7GEevVFq9f44U9gaa-pwcwtHezB_cE4X2TiorRt8iDNiRakxfjnmSEIHa-z76RKKaK_zcDM7kI1T3k5Yz7DANlJsF0ztnVOsJIEZO-bhTDr74rJv4-KrNP0ZeNi6-7u0O0JnubEEw/s320/SC36312.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.mfa.org/objects/114390/chemise?ctx=db363264-f489-4f3d-a4f6-0645111b8065&idx=44">Museum of Fine Arts, Boston</a>, early 19th century<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtd3Qk6I4fLPmJzA0f0Mfvgv7A-FLjmlzETQSE2i0m4icznYxtxZARdrNF3pFTJaf5GpZ27zlfMqaG8jE6zxkg6nI3hzAAVGPhKNjl10lWhBKn37cuB8VhJ6-JrJWei6wxwsS9i5AJIS_/s1600/SC45428.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtd3Qk6I4fLPmJzA0f0Mfvgv7A-FLjmlzETQSE2i0m4icznYxtxZARdrNF3pFTJaf5GpZ27zlfMqaG8jE6zxkg6nI3hzAAVGPhKNjl10lWhBKn37cuB8VhJ6-JrJWei6wxwsS9i5AJIS_/s320/SC45428.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.mfa.org/objects/324935/womans-shift?ctx=6a21a4d3-d363-4477-877e-86fb595ce883&idx=27">Museum of Fine Arts, Boston</a>, early 19th century<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I was a little concerned about the width of fabric fitting across my bust, but the pattern actually ended up being too large. I really could have gone with the third size. I'll remember that for next time! It was simple enough to make up from the engraving. All sewing was worked by hand and the side seams were felled. No piping was needed as per the directions and looking at originals.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzKrXnd_oEYAG06fTxFkiRewuoZviRx1_2JaHpU1oJeij0BT4GRakY5iu09kguketjARsrSzGKepmOepba6Gr4dmAvkcb6cf2-2TByc1jxaDeXp5CRs69Q7dvN_11eymG2aTLTptZzEKv/s700/Shift.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="583" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzKrXnd_oEYAG06fTxFkiRewuoZviRx1_2JaHpU1oJeij0BT4GRakY5iu09kguketjARsrSzGKepmOepba6Gr4dmAvkcb6cf2-2TByc1jxaDeXp5CRs69Q7dvN_11eymG2aTLTptZzEKv/s320/Shift.png" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-71378851756889175752020-11-09T15:27:00.000-08:002020-11-09T15:27:18.863-08:001830s Nightgown and Cap<div style="text-align: left;"> Not that I couldn't sleep in my chemise, mind you, but I find I enjoy having a fresh, clean nightdress to slip into at events. And even when events do not call for night-time authenticity, I find wearing period clothes throughout the whole event helps me slip into character easier. So, an 1830s nightgown was needed.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The Workwoman's Guide has directions for three different nightdresses. One is quite plain, looking much like a chemise with an added ruffle. The second, one with a high collar and the third with a yoke. I found an original gown in the MET with a yoke so I went with the yoked nightdress instructions.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0icPc4Ngsyxk4xTrRC1VzXWJis1FqOgC_Ud8eE5zehHXrdH7UK81HS9U5-jIb6zJDcmjHq7R83AIfO6nd3JR_l5JaHzG84T3aijT8XrUIhoFDLB3EPpsWk4kqdDLxOxf_H9Pkd5vW14uT/s1200/main-image.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="496" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0icPc4Ngsyxk4xTrRC1VzXWJis1FqOgC_Ud8eE5zehHXrdH7UK81HS9U5-jIb6zJDcmjHq7R83AIfO6nd3JR_l5JaHzG84T3aijT8XrUIhoFDLB3EPpsWk4kqdDLxOxf_H9Pkd5vW14uT/s320/main-image.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108977?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ft=nightgown&amp;offset=0&amp;rpp=20&amp;pos=6">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1830s<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">To modify the WWG pattern, I simply took the yoke pattern given, lengthened it a bit, then took out a big, square-ish shape chunk out of the neckline. I also extended it across the shoulder and then cut the pattern to be half my measurement across my front, armpit to armpit.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For the body part, the WWG calls for 1 yard wide pieces cut 1.5 yards long. 1.5 yards was super long on me, I cut mine at 1.25 yards and still took up a 6" hem. I also added gores to the side much like a chemise, although the pattern for that specific nightgown didn't mention gores. There is another nightgown pattern 2 pages previous that does include gores, so I know the concept is correct.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The seams were run and felled and gathering threads were put on the front and back. The front had to be slit down the center and narrow hemmed. I added a ruffle to the neckline, about 1.25" in width and about 1.5 times the length of the neckline, so not a super full ruffle.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The yoke was piped, as per instructions (but apparently linen nightgowns do not need to be piped) and then sleeves were made. As I lengthened the shoulder, the WWG directions for 18" square sleeves, was not going to work. I cut mine 10" by 40", run and fell them, then gathered them into a ruffled band and then also into the armscye.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For the nightcap, I followed WWG instructions on page 62. There wasn't much detail in the instructions, but I was able to figure it out with the help of other cap engravings. I opted to put the ruffle all the way around the cap per a few originals I have seen and also other caps listed in the WWG.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Although I rarely use nightcaps, it is nice to have it and it only took a few hours to whip together by hand. The nightgown I am pleased with as it is an open necked gown with shorter sleeves. I can't wait to get to use them!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTxy-OB0WGRobHPp6Qgu8ClNp41EM095eZTrB82FJDIbk-uyqHQhqO46Ra0fwJzaeWO7YcPdGz4t-3wSHAdLLKnvYSlYf07aiPbxrR6QQ0N58WuJ4Sfb-LWVrxXFEB_LA9MfJhvsK4IIz/s2048/DSCF0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTxy-OB0WGRobHPp6Qgu8ClNp41EM095eZTrB82FJDIbk-uyqHQhqO46Ra0fwJzaeWO7YcPdGz4t-3wSHAdLLKnvYSlYf07aiPbxrR6QQ0N58WuJ4Sfb-LWVrxXFEB_LA9MfJhvsK4IIz/s320/DSCF0021.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEL23ZyTBJ32687rD9ESX9hkd7WZk_Al3HBSqI0EOVQlpwsGtU_ma1a3FaRU9D3sXDuhHVzzXbGyDa8pHbv70ZLS9TYFsJJVluPK7HczMcYcoWxXQ-ZTa0D1Q33W8Vs-OiIGGYGnbBCGv/s2048/DSCF0020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIEL23ZyTBJ32687rD9ESX9hkd7WZk_Al3HBSqI0EOVQlpwsGtU_ma1a3FaRU9D3sXDuhHVzzXbGyDa8pHbv70ZLS9TYFsJJVluPK7HczMcYcoWxXQ-ZTa0D1Q33W8Vs-OiIGGYGnbBCGv/s320/DSCF0020.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRsB-xnNnQiME-J1VKZ6CqZRWgyzG1nwoqZOfPxNGlXlMnvm7r5EQdVjJAWuuy83O3EOWzqatLiu4s7xJ5HI8SCXpQMVGPaDPVOVhJqlDcJs5GqE3rpe1uMmVNcMXL4prFbVYnl10qnJh/s2048/DSCF0017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRsB-xnNnQiME-J1VKZ6CqZRWgyzG1nwoqZOfPxNGlXlMnvm7r5EQdVjJAWuuy83O3EOWzqatLiu4s7xJ5HI8SCXpQMVGPaDPVOVhJqlDcJs5GqE3rpe1uMmVNcMXL4prFbVYnl10qnJh/s320/DSCF0017.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-35979898845538213512020-11-02T08:04:00.000-08:002020-11-02T08:04:07.935-08:00More 1850s/1860s Evening Head-dresses<div style="text-align: left;"> Yes, more of them Four more, to be exact. Mostly because, why not?</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />First up, I copied one worn by Queen Victoria in 1851.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0SBU3NwWwxSHUI2Tnik2HUDpjG5eRxgxBglUvCw2t_rknFgWd9BQLjgNxDspr_P99UlVMmNYx_fOYFRC_Cm-q3wDXX7p30KBM5Kbcn4JvTpuYJXxTHPwP7NZqyx2j3bUhcVvkiiwXK62/s300/4111ccd3b3c3133214821949e3b18ac0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk0SBU3NwWwxSHUI2Tnik2HUDpjG5eRxgxBglUvCw2t_rknFgWd9BQLjgNxDspr_P99UlVMmNYx_fOYFRC_Cm-q3wDXX7p30KBM5Kbcn4JvTpuYJXxTHPwP7NZqyx2j3bUhcVvkiiwXK62/s0/4111ccd3b3c3133214821949e3b18ac0.jpg" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I used millinery wire to build a base which was then covered in a brown velvet ribbon. That was covered by a royal blue silk satin ribbon that I box pleated. I added a bit of Chantilly lace to the back and put a silk flower on one side. My flowers were bigger than Queen Victoria's so I only used one plus a few leaves instead of the three the Queen wore.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQoZK_PdhyphenhyphenwBKKgOzdW-dUMV0tNNTSM1FN_PMgvYwBFCptAncT7Kvy51tyhE6huQKUGGIrCXRqBoHXHILNSyOdlyH3IIqAM-nfDMASEmlFUOPciiKI9tNDVf2RtkDIOQrhcEfkC-tpwHu/s2016/IMG_7193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQoZK_PdhyphenhyphenwBKKgOzdW-dUMV0tNNTSM1FN_PMgvYwBFCptAncT7Kvy51tyhE6huQKUGGIrCXRqBoHXHILNSyOdlyH3IIqAM-nfDMASEmlFUOPciiKI9tNDVf2RtkDIOQrhcEfkC-tpwHu/s320/IMG_7193.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzIQU_S4Bl4oTk8854sv8RAe1k0CTda0xLr02ksS7fgPEHiC_ZRqCz8m-v2QCfaLEbZHnE75712JDQVfyTehnXNGiB2S-2vlfwfvExfaS54fvdlIFjDXSL-crfpVo-sj6PwIpZeQtldRpW/s2016/IMG_7194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzIQU_S4Bl4oTk8854sv8RAe1k0CTda0xLr02ksS7fgPEHiC_ZRqCz8m-v2QCfaLEbZHnE75712JDQVfyTehnXNGiB2S-2vlfwfvExfaS54fvdlIFjDXSL-crfpVo-sj6PwIpZeQtldRpW/s320/IMG_7194.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpdTJo8tPVW84D6MsKLBnSXqJapuUXIjcGA91ASmyehBIvySHHifr43YHQFrI_mNLHiyZZ8Gnn4Z4P6K5VJ9c3txqHi0x9fiO7yy9x1lvndlNtsnfXPFBE0o9w6NWBLIW-74UsTFYj3Ut/s2016/IMG_7195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijpdTJo8tPVW84D6MsKLBnSXqJapuUXIjcGA91ASmyehBIvySHHifr43YHQFrI_mNLHiyZZ8Gnn4Z4P6K5VJ9c3txqHi0x9fiO7yy9x1lvndlNtsnfXPFBE0o9w6NWBLIW-74UsTFYj3Ut/s320/IMG_7195.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The next was a simple floral headdress. I used just two floral stems from Timely Tresses and attached them by wrapping them in silk ribbon. Super simple! And really cute.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TeQSxIRI61KqJrju91Pdo_7dliR5dSwdUCdwcuwDNLPwb8VFT7r2IRWWsO4lB9SA3OG9Vaz4ZSOp211GzdZCGimyj6ea38nAW8P1c-chQZEL2NGDIzrojiTPPXXasmP2RBORvHJ-WKFn/s2016/IMG_7196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TeQSxIRI61KqJrju91Pdo_7dliR5dSwdUCdwcuwDNLPwb8VFT7r2IRWWsO4lB9SA3OG9Vaz4ZSOp211GzdZCGimyj6ea38nAW8P1c-chQZEL2NGDIzrojiTPPXXasmP2RBORvHJ-WKFn/s320/IMG_7196.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3CDK229HFRKRVOqRstL62G4fwd_1Kt1nfPmZ-tqf-dzmHLQD7Z3d8IW-hfpyUKjk_Tgf5Groz8GCObda5p5j48rwT0XgZkNm22eb-4cIrYTm3ctWQ5YSfDqPIhcHilytjDP7ac7RNKz_D/s2016/IMG_7197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3CDK229HFRKRVOqRstL62G4fwd_1Kt1nfPmZ-tqf-dzmHLQD7Z3d8IW-hfpyUKjk_Tgf5Groz8GCObda5p5j48rwT0XgZkNm22eb-4cIrYTm3ctWQ5YSfDqPIhcHilytjDP7ac7RNKz_D/s320/IMG_7197.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">It was based off several originals, like this one:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLLUFTA_tcgvExG9NRqvwToBJF8nys_u5vcgZDMLEmUODZMpwAFAv3njS0m60inWvCOaWvsoSP2LpdEhJFjGj3ELbnBHN77r_774817uJxUgZltf_hAjvI4CUoIVSxDqOgkWCnncXPWMO/s427/db151d56ee166d396198275ad067ac4f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="387" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLLUFTA_tcgvExG9NRqvwToBJF8nys_u5vcgZDMLEmUODZMpwAFAv3njS0m60inWvCOaWvsoSP2LpdEhJFjGj3ELbnBHN77r_774817uJxUgZltf_hAjvI4CUoIVSxDqOgkWCnncXPWMO/s320/db151d56ee166d396198275ad067ac4f.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Next up, I made another wire based headdress. This one was based off this original:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLjMaj3NnylzDdNssHFL-D8NCWITU-QJMepHgagUuRncdZZv-k0M-lGlSqKwTveR0yvMt51PyeLRkrZkLXEvGFfJ2NGmCOUmimb-FhkfOrIcv02MPdKSJitN7KPmCr7A-ZbQ1cWN9hNT1q/s427/5ab4bf9874e23f6da5ecbe867f3191ba.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="301" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLjMaj3NnylzDdNssHFL-D8NCWITU-QJMepHgagUuRncdZZv-k0M-lGlSqKwTveR0yvMt51PyeLRkrZkLXEvGFfJ2NGmCOUmimb-FhkfOrIcv02MPdKSJitN7KPmCr7A-ZbQ1cWN9hNT1q/s320/5ab4bf9874e23f6da5ecbe867f3191ba.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I used apple green velvet ribbon and black Chantilly lace instead of the red velvet and blonde lace the original used.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQPwzh2ngVV17cJwXP0VC9FcFpIwnZ8oSe-csjDzFjSwhzHi1CVgMWuHtQf8Aw3ay_RE0bs9MvhgymqIXHfF-K-beRyOpKblpEJm1J9G_K4MuB-UkPKUk-lWTi8ShzDAK8kakKK_pWs_n/s2016/IMG_7198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQPwzh2ngVV17cJwXP0VC9FcFpIwnZ8oSe-csjDzFjSwhzHi1CVgMWuHtQf8Aw3ay_RE0bs9MvhgymqIXHfF-K-beRyOpKblpEJm1J9G_K4MuB-UkPKUk-lWTi8ShzDAK8kakKK_pWs_n/s320/IMG_7198.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8i6v2Vi5UmIPtTOkNF9cDEcIAniwdE8A3yzwyU0G2DK5gV5F1XvPGV-aTFY-4sc7ZoGAg8cs6tvBljVZSJa2sgW3I4WO61qoUU1shaC_0NnKOg4GMIClH577E9x5ojHcSvcalaDnnDXg/s2016/IMG_7199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8i6v2Vi5UmIPtTOkNF9cDEcIAniwdE8A3yzwyU0G2DK5gV5F1XvPGV-aTFY-4sc7ZoGAg8cs6tvBljVZSJa2sgW3I4WO61qoUU1shaC_0NnKOg4GMIClH577E9x5ojHcSvcalaDnnDXg/s320/IMG_7199.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6wHzkbcmQQ_Vdt0XSUZ4lJNu06BQgSOMPzCfaaf1eWq9SgnibkvEq0lBKicPiH5bsuzequaijlc9VMchEbQz3zQ1rxARGo-tKooKqYhotoJP2y5R9Yk8Im2s2O6MtADJDNxQSMP1Hb_T/s2016/IMG_7200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6wHzkbcmQQ_Vdt0XSUZ4lJNu06BQgSOMPzCfaaf1eWq9SgnibkvEq0lBKicPiH5bsuzequaijlc9VMchEbQz3zQ1rxARGo-tKooKqYhotoJP2y5R9Yk8Im2s2O6MtADJDNxQSMP1Hb_T/s320/IMG_7200.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And finally, I decided to remake a headdress that I made many years ago. It was originally based off this engraving from Godey's Lady's Book, 1861.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimSj7ZAYNhhZFSiRtZvD09sJ20epQmPbRr_6pjMtyglIuz8513Rn3F1bhAwuiriSYaBxlDqSEP-9ueEZPH7nabAXsyvD2EkQ-InWEgwFfYVSYTgFQkzm2IoehcCyQfSZO44-imOWnkkq6C/s933/5357ef67b47c9f94eb297597d8372463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimSj7ZAYNhhZFSiRtZvD09sJ20epQmPbRr_6pjMtyglIuz8513Rn3F1bhAwuiriSYaBxlDqSEP-9ueEZPH7nabAXsyvD2EkQ-InWEgwFfYVSYTgFQkzm2IoehcCyQfSZO44-imOWnkkq6C/s320/5357ef67b47c9f94eb297597d8372463.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Godey's also published four more headdresses that year.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo9QoxvINxcTWNFKC7G1TlZ6HS8wd5Bo3yvgXFO_efQaBEpDDOjswKweTaAgqVFCJNDCCR6drsP1pGJUP0hLuL5RMEhT_qRKL00peB456AfIRoGXFy__90cUxj6_Wm991TqZKkzkcGb-gz/s957/78f70899fab4cd336a0f4b1cd10160c7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="957" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo9QoxvINxcTWNFKC7G1TlZ6HS8wd5Bo3yvgXFO_efQaBEpDDOjswKweTaAgqVFCJNDCCR6drsP1pGJUP0hLuL5RMEhT_qRKL00peB456AfIRoGXFy__90cUxj6_Wm991TqZKkzkcGb-gz/s320/78f70899fab4cd336a0f4b1cd10160c7.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VUfIlqx1442Fux8JLdMTqrTaHFm21ade4QZCctzrnmrhz7CgXtvhrBK5bSr23au4le6y_k4uactn1BLiCpEzejwCqYCuDrHu8rMqcCGU-vrgEvbmbLzcuBULxHfDqSPp_6be8UKekmAp/s690/cf8c7f5c4288944ffc1b242739e51e46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="690" data-original-width="420" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VUfIlqx1442Fux8JLdMTqrTaHFm21ade4QZCctzrnmrhz7CgXtvhrBK5bSr23au4le6y_k4uactn1BLiCpEzejwCqYCuDrHu8rMqcCGU-vrgEvbmbLzcuBULxHfDqSPp_6be8UKekmAp/s320/cf8c7f5c4288944ffc1b242739e51e46.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I took off the flowers that were on the headdress, added wire to the top, and recovered it in black silk taffeta. I put pearls on front and ostrich feathers in back. I think it turned out cute! I especially love that it is totally neutral.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8W7aiNUcClN0YpUBr7hlNT5RlvVkb98qdP-lpsfekDL35-wrMnCuPQnyen0iXp_K5v-TqbQdjy606OkuxDqyEOz67clfm5w0CbDemvvLaeQLoQEJKX46GkjmjKxpFjbTl0Hwi8A0JtcR0/s2016/IMG_7191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8W7aiNUcClN0YpUBr7hlNT5RlvVkb98qdP-lpsfekDL35-wrMnCuPQnyen0iXp_K5v-TqbQdjy606OkuxDqyEOz67clfm5w0CbDemvvLaeQLoQEJKX46GkjmjKxpFjbTl0Hwi8A0JtcR0/s320/IMG_7191.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq0ajsZh0z4xuEP2NSPMFrYrRI3ERY7TNWvgky7nBGnWOnTU5VPf0Q5oFrsZbA3Ui28gKPDqy35WCKBdGs6nOUIDZ5SK24Cgnr7nfkyFyNBV7m8JqLVHWE5VnvFzIjo8wpZW4l9cYtDSSi/s2016/IMG_7192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq0ajsZh0z4xuEP2NSPMFrYrRI3ERY7TNWvgky7nBGnWOnTU5VPf0Q5oFrsZbA3Ui28gKPDqy35WCKBdGs6nOUIDZ5SK24Cgnr7nfkyFyNBV7m8JqLVHWE5VnvFzIjo8wpZW4l9cYtDSSi/s320/IMG_7192.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDhUR2HHq8HP2yMxRbx3REQeaa-4lo5Jmo3nEADCpbHMcSM1hwZjVPZiZY9y0GyUQvLKdzaIypKv2QJNAfKoD6mucFxmTkNY2glystaA0-DZ2ZuenMBSskFpe3IZVkP9WXYSP6s8V_k_E/s2048/DSCF0014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDhUR2HHq8HP2yMxRbx3REQeaa-4lo5Jmo3nEADCpbHMcSM1hwZjVPZiZY9y0GyUQvLKdzaIypKv2QJNAfKoD6mucFxmTkNY2glystaA0-DZ2ZuenMBSskFpe3IZVkP9WXYSP6s8V_k_E/s320/DSCF0014.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpsiYWCxbuZ2J8dcyTR3lT02F1n0MDsCjzjFlbLsu5rsCNomPaHrI5L39tYl6zDULrvnZO8R2INUKG0YzI0wm5jjj51Ho6QxGacgUha0aO2R_7cf-L4EdnPLesdZD8-ytFkb6LtgJl7tp5/s2048/DSCF0020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpsiYWCxbuZ2J8dcyTR3lT02F1n0MDsCjzjFlbLsu5rsCNomPaHrI5L39tYl6zDULrvnZO8R2INUKG0YzI0wm5jjj51Ho6QxGacgUha0aO2R_7cf-L4EdnPLesdZD8-ytFkb6LtgJl7tp5/s320/DSCF0020.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnfY9yNU40ELBLEDzFGT-PJSSZ2WCygwpQIiPDcTtWDFsa2h9_ecDJjvHu1YH55b1bBJargXQbmTjUTplMMo8_jYg2Ch8um0nKJY5iKyHDHjjucWQWDagwx28jzOh7sqc6rF_5-l5817QS/s2048/DSCF0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnfY9yNU40ELBLEDzFGT-PJSSZ2WCygwpQIiPDcTtWDFsa2h9_ecDJjvHu1YH55b1bBJargXQbmTjUTplMMo8_jYg2Ch8um0nKJY5iKyHDHjjucWQWDagwx28jzOh7sqc6rF_5-l5817QS/s320/DSCF0029.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI2Kn8qAL6XmUztfTSPWc9OnveQgkYN7ofx_sqWDuWO3zf10ouH7Hsvfgvw1Oe4tZr1dKDiLjxupwbSFpFSDWuRLOtqE2Fw5Oon5WwM__CXO4nPVQvy3SZLN-2-8Rsp_K2wGHH5etQfhj1/s2048/DSCF0039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI2Kn8qAL6XmUztfTSPWc9OnveQgkYN7ofx_sqWDuWO3zf10ouH7Hsvfgvw1Oe4tZr1dKDiLjxupwbSFpFSDWuRLOtqE2Fw5Oon5WwM__CXO4nPVQvy3SZLN-2-8Rsp_K2wGHH5etQfhj1/s320/DSCF0039.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-1970159202851712772020-10-26T05:46:00.000-07:002020-10-26T05:46:21.718-07:00Visiting Cards and Cases in the 1830s<div style="text-align: left;"> Being that I hope to start attending 1830s events soon, I decided to work on a few practical wardrobe pieces for interacting with the public. A card case for Sarah's (my character) visiting cards as well as my own business cards was first on the list.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The Workwoman's Guide has directions for a card case... and I did try that at first. It didn't turn out too well. So I decided to go back to the drawing board. I search Godey's Lady's Book (Then called simply "The Lady's Book") and Peterson's Magazine hoping to find directions for making a card case. No such luck, although from 1830-1835 I did find many references in stories to cards and card cases used by both men and women. So they were definitely being used.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Although finding directions for making card cases was difficult, I did manage to find pictures of originals. I am especially fond of the following ivory/bone carved ones.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Y-5y4l7vTl-vG9hJwQoMklDATOr3Xm7SIllpyVsHW6lvTEIDiosU8Pg71RxoxndhGDaMuxCW5YNi2AL5qa4MkJqCjnJoteW_UfIIRQg0vINi-Vw1C2tXXE2agsWKzgF_XJWDebdCO3qG/s400/6a5e21625fb6587b432a8379bfcd79d2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="271" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Y-5y4l7vTl-vG9hJwQoMklDATOr3Xm7SIllpyVsHW6lvTEIDiosU8Pg71RxoxndhGDaMuxCW5YNi2AL5qa4MkJqCjnJoteW_UfIIRQg0vINi-Vw1C2tXXE2agsWKzgF_XJWDebdCO3qG/s320/6a5e21625fb6587b432a8379bfcd79d2.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/85977.html?mulR=1790656984%7C234#">Philadelphia Museum of Art</a>, 1830-1840<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPdGO8zex6J3vsR9WLpXL77U9jBhHu9P6wXbGu5royh02SEHR8Wa-ciSzDCGuE8AxHSAmaO7bvhiI2yaaQ2l6fwL5lSBDi5w-ARRfwTIlI95EgvBZX2csSvkjzf9XEBLqLCQCJinS7KW-f/s400/f7645c85138cba509bc1c1d33fa0d142.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="278" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPdGO8zex6J3vsR9WLpXL77U9jBhHu9P6wXbGu5royh02SEHR8Wa-ciSzDCGuE8AxHSAmaO7bvhiI2yaaQ2l6fwL5lSBDi5w-ARRfwTIlI95EgvBZX2csSvkjzf9XEBLqLCQCJinS7KW-f/s320/f7645c85138cba509bc1c1d33fa0d142.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/85977.html?mulR=1790656984%7C234#">Philadelphia Museum of Art</a>, 1830-1840<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Unfortunately, no similar looking cases were for sale in my budget.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I decided to take a break from card cases and focus on the actual cards. I think mine turned out quite well, especially when compared to the original. I used Mrs. William H. Wharton for Sarah's cards as that would have been most common at the time.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9RGaqqELdGfHj2_UGokqhkQQzHdmcftzMRu1mjyg5W-B41isIfH28gp04rORVrnwcAfSKKibMZ50kyLYXwlo5xeYwinMAMBSplJxiJE8UKq3g27qy-xVip9Uph2X7SXRZLt2mBp0LSSk/s1683/IMG_7186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1038" data-original-width="1683" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9RGaqqELdGfHj2_UGokqhkQQzHdmcftzMRu1mjyg5W-B41isIfH28gp04rORVrnwcAfSKKibMZ50kyLYXwlo5xeYwinMAMBSplJxiJE8UKq3g27qy-xVip9Uph2X7SXRZLt2mBp0LSSk/s320/IMG_7186.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here's an original card. The date is unknown (1822-1863) as cards don't change a whole lot during this time frame.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0toumQPFyxeGq8D2HDSc4HWu3KLaKHE9RBpuxCT50AP5QmlWhpo_1ezznQKIhhYv_4PU68Dq7kdcG00EdUC2nOAvcyvmJjgh8mJ7lLrU4xsSJvfRkTZ0Owz9itER9rwBIiwIsGzD_Tyd/s1008/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="556" data-original-width="1008" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG0toumQPFyxeGq8D2HDSc4HWu3KLaKHE9RBpuxCT50AP5QmlWhpo_1ezznQKIhhYv_4PU68Dq7kdcG00EdUC2nOAvcyvmJjgh8mJ7lLrU4xsSJvfRkTZ0Owz9itER9rwBIiwIsGzD_Tyd/s320/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/724694?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ft=calling+card&amp;offset=0&amp;rpp=20&amp;pos=12">Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Supposedly, the visiting card custom started in England before it moved to the States. I'm not sure of the time frame on that but cards were definitely being used in America by the 1830s. In 1832, Miss Emeline Parker from Massachusetts had her portrait done with visiting card in hand.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMQ9xqIlHqD_n0cv8qkH_PqkRH3ReqNk7EPXv3Ad4gkLgpfBY0xyM46Cb6JLQ4PopiFdUcSHq7m4yemXrwGbeA5cHvWBxWAmeksHcgqlcskEcQA7sKZNW_sfL3jGgEBK5kGiU2eABZ5vC/s1200/main-image.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="968" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsMQ9xqIlHqD_n0cv8qkH_PqkRH3ReqNk7EPXv3Ad4gkLgpfBY0xyM46Cb6JLQ4PopiFdUcSHq7m4yemXrwGbeA5cHvWBxWAmeksHcgqlcskEcQA7sKZNW_sfL3jGgEBK5kGiU2eABZ5vC/s320/main-image.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/12594?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ft=calling+card&amp;offset=20&amp;rpp=20&amp;pos=21">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I can't find record of card cases being sold or card engraving services being offered in Texas pre-1836 but advertisements aren't as thorough in the early years as they become mid-1840s and beyond so that does not mean they weren't offered. Sarah, being schooled in Nashville and New York City would have certainly been familiar with the custom and probably had her own cards and case. As all Texans were transplants from other states (Texas only started being colonized by white people in 1821), it is likely that they brought this custom over with them.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As far as beaded card cases go, I had a hard time finding originals. But finding original card cases that aren't bone or metal is difficult as they are often labeled as something else (cigar case, pocket book, purse, coin purse, etc.). I found a few originals that had a similar look as what I was going for.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCTr1AqhzukzoDw8letjSN59gGGriNrX-aN6DXFRLe-Ij9oYG__EZB6JioXIu8jjc3GNDq9rqgWgc5SMi0VK_42cXHmQxQksdTtiSDnjDBVyanqvIT1r8tKfVSakU-nPXf7GemOvOqe7bJ/s701/36057d994d2fc07e32083a372d9b33e8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCTr1AqhzukzoDw8letjSN59gGGriNrX-aN6DXFRLe-Ij9oYG__EZB6JioXIu8jjc3GNDq9rqgWgc5SMi0VK_42cXHmQxQksdTtiSDnjDBVyanqvIT1r8tKfVSakU-nPXf7GemOvOqe7bJ/s320/36057d994d2fc07e32083a372d9b33e8.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown source, 1830-1850</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibGRCC3y-R-QPHImMMUInsrxl09ijvmYPVk1FzkPWLYZgbEMQAhqeGJwSjLrrS3QV7tfQOGqoyH0hl8gYmOKvJ6T5YLeGYlvIKVshCH-HBNP1SQVadLgHAHvUwx3VvCEJX4ft7hnd2LtSy/s534/3c14d9daa901653fe50c6e997d3be2df.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="337" data-original-width="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibGRCC3y-R-QPHImMMUInsrxl09ijvmYPVk1FzkPWLYZgbEMQAhqeGJwSjLrrS3QV7tfQOGqoyH0hl8gYmOKvJ6T5YLeGYlvIKVshCH-HBNP1SQVadLgHAHvUwx3VvCEJX4ft7hnd2LtSy/s320/3c14d9daa901653fe50c6e997d3be2df.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80094527?rpp=60&pg=65&rndkey=20120822&ft=%2A&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Costume&pos=3854">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1800-1830<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pNNy2Bdp21Um0rilvGAaRCk8kEzeeRz3SngVyxjuyb38XBv1TF3oJj_MWlgQlA66Eo-d_aQrTeKnsrcP9WR-Gq8wKGBme6oerItlFPJILUmcvzIGV0YVe3OoCtoGAnr-QI-X5zfhgqbB/s752/9536cc1cd91784273ffaf27b4fe9ed77.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pNNy2Bdp21Um0rilvGAaRCk8kEzeeRz3SngVyxjuyb38XBv1TF3oJj_MWlgQlA66Eo-d_aQrTeKnsrcP9WR-Gq8wKGBme6oerItlFPJILUmcvzIGV0YVe3OoCtoGAnr-QI-X5zfhgqbB/s320/9536cc1cd91784273ffaf27b4fe9ed77.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2015/08/fundraising-friday-get-out-your-pocketbook.html">FIDM Museum</a>, 1785 (with sequins, not beads)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For my case, I decided to do the beadwork on perforated paper, although the originals appear to have done the embroidery directly on the silk fabric. This was mostly so I could have holes to get my stitches even. I found when the case was done, it looks remarkably similar to the MET beaded example above and one can hardly tell the paper is there.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For my design, I picked a vine looking border done in green and blue with a center featuring a yellow rose and several little pink flowers. For the back, I decided to go with Sarah's initials done in pink. Since the initials were in pink, I opted to use a scrap of yellow silk for the interior of the case to make the pink stand out more. I used a bit of teal ribbon to bind the top edge of the pockets as well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My finished embroidery pieces ended up about 4" by 2.5" with the finished case ending up being about 3" tall by the time you add in the bit of yellow silk on top.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd0GSfOu1kUhi2L782JxlX33PR1L6XKICPeEPNYqrTZWFfHb3oElwQ6iIHsXcrsANFn1XBUrLXVjzgYdxM12tV3Pk392imqWYHVYc5IQCxwVhoLkG8Bd9yeWaHqj_FJk3y9zI0QkATsJGN/s2016/IMG_7187.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd0GSfOu1kUhi2L782JxlX33PR1L6XKICPeEPNYqrTZWFfHb3oElwQ6iIHsXcrsANFn1XBUrLXVjzgYdxM12tV3Pk392imqWYHVYc5IQCxwVhoLkG8Bd9yeWaHqj_FJk3y9zI0QkATsJGN/s320/IMG_7187.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb65RDJZTqLLDbQIx7Pc9jpuHeUdv_NkOYgKgeSxp-nFmdnNjeO8w-nCo0wFXhyXxfWy_06l2uNg7DgyNc9Jio_Ni3myNpaZinJKT0mQkgApnObgCOr1cSLxIYWPlCiAvTfyB1UR0akwUu/s2016/IMG_7188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb65RDJZTqLLDbQIx7Pc9jpuHeUdv_NkOYgKgeSxp-nFmdnNjeO8w-nCo0wFXhyXxfWy_06l2uNg7DgyNc9Jio_Ni3myNpaZinJKT0mQkgApnObgCOr1cSLxIYWPlCiAvTfyB1UR0akwUu/s320/IMG_7188.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifm1FPVwpYsxYA8ze9RNR5269Gd-UEPA2O9_1fpjpjH-ExOhO0tFsPo9WBjafFpe6AKslIilee58xL3L2MU8PsZpiT885Cga6gPEv4uQAxjh7TyO05jTEeBYet4Qe0qEhJNnbea_T4SRAo/s2016/IMG_7189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifm1FPVwpYsxYA8ze9RNR5269Gd-UEPA2O9_1fpjpjH-ExOhO0tFsPo9WBjafFpe6AKslIilee58xL3L2MU8PsZpiT885Cga6gPEv4uQAxjh7TyO05jTEeBYet4Qe0qEhJNnbea_T4SRAo/s320/IMG_7189.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-21281651946230076112020-10-19T06:43:00.000-07:002020-10-19T06:43:09.654-07:00Recreating an 1850s Silk Dress<div style="text-align: left;"> So remember a few months ago when I did a <a href="https://atimeinhistory.blogspot.com/2020/06/examining-original-1850s-dress-free.html">post about a new original I added to the collection</a>? And I said I would recreate it? Well, I finally had the time to sit down and do it.<br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIILQ563Q-_eU04TPmGZ8eW7uQgZVoYvd0iL87kOz_3h_gzyd0lnvvhAN5hZOeofzBG0myl9ucNURQOAnzN0d5Hl1epnrHlme6N_CGf1vNz67Id1utJcYZ0wHg10g_KgX-rV4TFa9f2_hyphenhyphen/s2048/DSCF0026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIILQ563Q-_eU04TPmGZ8eW7uQgZVoYvd0iL87kOz_3h_gzyd0lnvvhAN5hZOeofzBG0myl9ucNURQOAnzN0d5Hl1epnrHlme6N_CGf1vNz67Id1utJcYZ0wHg10g_KgX-rV4TFa9f2_hyphenhyphen/s320/DSCF0026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Since I already recreated a black silk dress, I decided to do a different color than the original for this gown. Since the original gown was more of a tissue taffeta than a normal taffeta, that limited my color choices somewhat. Two of my three other 1850s gowns were blue so that ruled that out-I decided that a little variety was in order. Purple, I felt, was too close to blue and since the cotton candy silk already had some pink, I ruled that color out as well. There were some really pretty shot taffetas and a few greens I considered, but I ended up going with red.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhtvsVfZyEl_pTp4Sn8cKIlfCCdONEiyPw1L79a7OxKPNgwCvuWqc-BcS_tSZwZAGRuDO197d-Abugx1kORWuhw1bETOpmNu62m6MDFNtcMaVIAQhm9bc3WLnSttz_JEUzi-au6aBs51Q/s2016/IMG_7174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUhtvsVfZyEl_pTp4Sn8cKIlfCCdONEiyPw1L79a7OxKPNgwCvuWqc-BcS_tSZwZAGRuDO197d-Abugx1kORWuhw1bETOpmNu62m6MDFNtcMaVIAQhm9bc3WLnSttz_JEUzi-au6aBs51Q/s320/IMG_7174.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The dress was easy to make up-gauged skirt (to which I added a watch pocket), skirt pocket, and facing done in polished cotton. I did attempt hem braid for the first time-I think I may go with a slightly wider wool braid next time.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzrHEiZoRJqGyIZfdou-m7C4Wv6MTEevilIkGVo1ha4RGOettxwb91bLfHHpo3qlc2pPSQ5cpez9Qu-2QbHJNZ1C_l4ZOJtGHlP0XuIlog6n-WGkGbvwimOUl5xRGG-eBVtZV9-xVPMRC/s2016/IMG_7172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzrHEiZoRJqGyIZfdou-m7C4Wv6MTEevilIkGVo1ha4RGOettxwb91bLfHHpo3qlc2pPSQ5cpez9Qu-2QbHJNZ1C_l4ZOJtGHlP0XuIlog6n-WGkGbvwimOUl5xRGG-eBVtZV9-xVPMRC/s320/IMG_7172.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieEivNQLP5ym7E_hmEfPhuqvgI-RYzjXsFf6wNEyCDJ9rWLi49FCBuC82Qd5_FxkXfdHEdD8XigXEbrcMl7nnRnPVRMjzHp7sRoxmo9rjHkuy6lLYWE_CnevVZGMkTF9JMW6J-U8b7tSnt/s2016/IMG_7173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieEivNQLP5ym7E_hmEfPhuqvgI-RYzjXsFf6wNEyCDJ9rWLi49FCBuC82Qd5_FxkXfdHEdD8XigXEbrcMl7nnRnPVRMjzHp7sRoxmo9rjHkuy6lLYWE_CnevVZGMkTF9JMW6J-U8b7tSnt/s320/IMG_7173.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The bodice features absolutely no boning, but instead is gathered both in the front and the back-even the lining is gathered. The bodice closes with hooks and eyes, spaced a rather whopping 1.5" apart. The bodice also featured a self-fabric waistband that is piped along the bottom (along with the neckline and armscye). The only real changes I had to make to my normal bodice pattern was to cut it 1.5" shorter to accommodate the waistband and to add width to the back bodice to allow for the gathering.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eqFkYo3KcJYfidJFRsQj4H1mgJs0hE8E3ddyuEx7kY7Nunvlwqe_j8jotf8igK6qnV-GbSYtVlD4dT_V8NjA3mL69jAk9c40An0kNuz8k3ThWCZgZ-FKPrdO6sJPcr9DcrcY374AAijj/s2048/DSCF0005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4eqFkYo3KcJYfidJFRsQj4H1mgJs0hE8E3ddyuEx7kY7Nunvlwqe_j8jotf8igK6qnV-GbSYtVlD4dT_V8NjA3mL69jAk9c40An0kNuz8k3ThWCZgZ-FKPrdO6sJPcr9DcrcY374AAijj/s320/DSCF0005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mgumS7TKg6_eRaGgp_4kGoq7L3lFjHzbU549bhgfnX2EOhgkdP3l6qGQvVJmTmIvawNRn4jn0RFuD45bgEqsE_T7k7-yis52z8K4FmQk-iHQWRUhBPt7D9xvWEsY_FbVj2-cAfL7gfT0/s2048/DSCF0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1mgumS7TKg6_eRaGgp_4kGoq7L3lFjHzbU549bhgfnX2EOhgkdP3l6qGQvVJmTmIvawNRn4jn0RFuD45bgEqsE_T7k7-yis52z8K4FmQk-iHQWRUhBPt7D9xvWEsY_FbVj2-cAfL7gfT0/s320/DSCF0004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The sleeves are bishop-not ever my first (or second) choice in sleeves, but I think they turned out nice. They have a self-fabric cuff that is trimmed with a ruching of self fabric. The cuffs close with hooks and eyes and I also added some small white linen cuffs.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoioqNTxqXgAuFUDzYHGRWD1xDorNPrMjvBoBvSdFCYrEI6SbPDYaIqJ_1ZGAsFudlQYPAeXQMSq-sKV1l5Po9VCjATA3KIynw6z6iJ09yiuPIDzEbC7LauFZXjhpxFtAdBxkT7LMhltS/s2016/IMG_7170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoioqNTxqXgAuFUDzYHGRWD1xDorNPrMjvBoBvSdFCYrEI6SbPDYaIqJ_1ZGAsFudlQYPAeXQMSq-sKV1l5Po9VCjATA3KIynw6z6iJ09yiuPIDzEbC7LauFZXjhpxFtAdBxkT7LMhltS/s320/IMG_7170.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">For the collar, I chose an 1854 Godey's Lady's Book pattern for a crochet collar. I used size 30 crochet cotton, which in hindsight was still probably a bit thick for what I needed it to do. I used a crochet hook that is itty bitty but labeled size 7.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzoPxUCzBOpjSVjwCE9IQYTB5K5NnaCmN4ou4BkfqZMk3GOlJc9kUu5zNpDqpCaja7oSF5Ji_uRRWrnBAg7IWmUaDpb1HG1FrSBcuIN3A2Sfu_OkIEqmlrACp6iLUsLobQZHex52g47G2/s692/Collar.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="692" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzoPxUCzBOpjSVjwCE9IQYTB5K5NnaCmN4ou4BkfqZMk3GOlJc9kUu5zNpDqpCaja7oSF5Ji_uRRWrnBAg7IWmUaDpb1HG1FrSBcuIN3A2Sfu_OkIEqmlrACp6iLUsLobQZHex52g47G2/s320/Collar.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW04eg_Q_fJC6-rOzxZZKYqMsV_tvUFiuP0RqyIk2BADC0l7sVO8uJSyFFk_xn9AOJ9vjaMbTQNMY3r3z-LMYDeY64yQVd85f8zzOm7-4UgD7lwY9xVMuTx5J3hy2JyAYgumFUCuX6Tkiz/s639/Collar1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="251" data-original-width="639" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW04eg_Q_fJC6-rOzxZZKYqMsV_tvUFiuP0RqyIk2BADC0l7sVO8uJSyFFk_xn9AOJ9vjaMbTQNMY3r3z-LMYDeY64yQVd85f8zzOm7-4UgD7lwY9xVMuTx5J3hy2JyAYgumFUCuX6Tkiz/s320/Collar1.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOoBdlyLeQhogiJKFeqHZ2Q0a8aqovCJaj1JUzWI6vWPQTd0tUCacfYJDDvtYrnBla-yBnpmIAD7CKuZ042f-TbpxOkMEtdZJnSWzRVdq1ZlAG5-zNKhcZDyPFb-vK5bjdvVpPMGBerW_m/s317/Collar2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="317" data-original-width="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOoBdlyLeQhogiJKFeqHZ2Q0a8aqovCJaj1JUzWI6vWPQTd0tUCacfYJDDvtYrnBla-yBnpmIAD7CKuZ042f-TbpxOkMEtdZJnSWzRVdq1ZlAG5-zNKhcZDyPFb-vK5bjdvVpPMGBerW_m/s0/Collar2.png" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />I made up the collar mostly similar to the original pattern, making some changes to the leaves to make it lay better. Here is my version of the pattern, with modern crochet language.<br /> Chain 180 stitches.<br /> Row 1: Work a sc in every chain across (180 stitches).<br /> Row 2: *3 dc, ch 3, miss 3. Repeat from * across. You should end on a 3 dc.<br /> Row 3: *3sc, ch 3, miss 3. Repeat from * across. You should end on a 3 sc.<br /> Row 4: *Sl st on the 1st sc, ch 6, skip 5 stitches. Repeat from * across. I think I added a little chain of 3 at the end to make it since it didn't match up perfectly.<br /> Row 5: *Ch 7, sl st on the center of the loop. Repeat from * across.<br /> Row 6: Sl st until you get to the center of the 1st loop, *ch 6, sl st on the center of the next loop. Repeat from * across.<br /> Row 7: Sc on every chain, miss every sl st.<br /> Row 8: Sl st the 1st 6 stitches. *Ch 9, sl st in same stitch, ch 12, sl st in same stitch, ch 9, sl st in same stitch. Turn work, work a sc in every ch across, missing the sl st. Turn work. Sl st in 1st 3 sc, then attach your leaf to the ground by taking the 4th sc to your right that is on the ground. Work both stitches as 1 (sc). Sc on the remaining sc, sl st once you reach the end of the leaf. Sl st on the next stitch, ch 2, work a sc in the next 10 stitches. Work a sl st in the 11th stitch. Repeat from * across. You should end with 6 sc stitches. On the last stitch, work the 1st point of the last leaf in with the last stitch to attach them.<br /> Row 9: *Ch 7, sl st in the center of the 2nd point of the leaf, ch 12, sl st in the center of the 1st point of the next leaf. Repeat from * across.<br /> Row 10: Sc in every stitch across.<br /> Row 11: 2 sc, *3ch, sc in the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * until you get to the big (middle) point of the 1st leaf. Sl st in the middle stitch, ch 6, sl st back in the same stitch. Repeat with the 3 ch, sc in the next 3 stitches until you get to the next leaf's middle point. Repeat across.<br /> Row 12: Sc in all of the previous sc on the last row but work the chains as such: 1 sl st, 4 sc, 1 sl st.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> Row 13: Sc in 1st stitch, *ch 3, skip 2, sc 1. Repeat from * across. When you reach the end, start working up the side of the collar the same way. I slip stitched across the neckline to do the same on the other side of the collar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I also made a linen handkerchief to match the cuffs.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoSJpPH_V3CrwRdwzlZWV1pr2zFyYi0D3u91knjbnnGcQAD2pOYpD3b62nD5Etw3bdM32SsFy2Lmbz4FJeldA2en7OEFwlR7YwhafpY9I0t2oOI5fWffx1W2x3iNvPMBcAeWiWW7NkBOU/s2048/DSCF0009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoSJpPH_V3CrwRdwzlZWV1pr2zFyYi0D3u91knjbnnGcQAD2pOYpD3b62nD5Etw3bdM32SsFy2Lmbz4FJeldA2en7OEFwlR7YwhafpY9I0t2oOI5fWffx1W2x3iNvPMBcAeWiWW7NkBOU/s320/DSCF0009.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgceP9GUTIjzeN6VH__yukcmDF_fAmcIUOXCHIONzzZl4FnadPiEItnyyAVcDlUF4mNFSz3Ja7rA2d_-A2yBW_eRd9V2TIPPMVakN0wOPphIQl5R-twRqddTVo5-NPD8CeVe17nEwCmeVV7/s2048/DSCF0010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgceP9GUTIjzeN6VH__yukcmDF_fAmcIUOXCHIONzzZl4FnadPiEItnyyAVcDlUF4mNFSz3Ja7rA2d_-A2yBW_eRd9V2TIPPMVakN0wOPphIQl5R-twRqddTVo5-NPD8CeVe17nEwCmeVV7/s320/DSCF0010.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiDyuxNmlKM63ZzmGAAOSEpXxQuB0dvRQ-8dVNL8wvbfUdxTGseGrqu6rUMTl3TLdUHkZpFsiqi7fYjRRtbgMv_Yin-0FceRgsqzqrMG2oi6nCDE04IYYCNxxwSy-hseogwu_I7AVXWcG8/s2016/IMG_7176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiDyuxNmlKM63ZzmGAAOSEpXxQuB0dvRQ-8dVNL8wvbfUdxTGseGrqu6rUMTl3TLdUHkZpFsiqi7fYjRRtbgMv_Yin-0FceRgsqzqrMG2oi6nCDE04IYYCNxxwSy-hseogwu_I7AVXWcG8/s320/IMG_7176.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>The only thing that was left was to make up the pelerine. I added a bit at the shoulders to give myself some more wiggle room and added a bit more across the fronts as well to make it meet in the front. Other than that, I made it up exactly as the original. The pelerine is trimmed in antique silk fringe I found online.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBbnBRC-RNrso8ldbMobF81qjpJx5l4IfkGDmt3zc6IQ1KMk0bwu0Yg64TbopSLbzdq-mxznhAm_an_Gg1jx2JNjSdfuqlyyEqAiF6h3w5PXcGDMvi1olZGO08jpd0N_FocsWPCT055Qd/s2048/DSCF0014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBbnBRC-RNrso8ldbMobF81qjpJx5l4IfkGDmt3zc6IQ1KMk0bwu0Yg64TbopSLbzdq-mxznhAm_an_Gg1jx2JNjSdfuqlyyEqAiF6h3w5PXcGDMvi1olZGO08jpd0N_FocsWPCT055Qd/s320/DSCF0014.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh0kTH7xChF7Orje0yUaZk_TBXXOMBxYh5sefefJ84wwumPWXgBYa7J2hyphenhyphenKSfhqoRpZFkB2oRLreuMAWZJeryd72XrPqccm38Ce6UPoAhP41rvZjZC81V45-XD1gxFXWH6se3-6h90HnDH/s2048/DSCF0017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh0kTH7xChF7Orje0yUaZk_TBXXOMBxYh5sefefJ84wwumPWXgBYa7J2hyphenhyphenKSfhqoRpZFkB2oRLreuMAWZJeryd72XrPqccm38Ce6UPoAhP41rvZjZC81V45-XD1gxFXWH6se3-6h90HnDH/s320/DSCF0017.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oy1bXALUOVJNzz7k7xXN5_QhyCKfl-PdseDICPy86DydL1AWONbd58ih8cxCDr9TwNJtiuGSil5XsCsjt9_wOY7oAShEQu5etETJjxK7e3jmh_qtjaF4tK2VFpcR2FObaL6Xx_Xyzu2-/s2016/IMG_7171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oy1bXALUOVJNzz7k7xXN5_QhyCKfl-PdseDICPy86DydL1AWONbd58ih8cxCDr9TwNJtiuGSil5XsCsjt9_wOY7oAShEQu5etETJjxK7e3jmh_qtjaF4tK2VFpcR2FObaL6Xx_Xyzu2-/s320/IMG_7171.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>This is the 4th 1850s gown that I have, and I am so happy to add a little variety in color and style to the wardrobe!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWA6MxNnowCIGhdox1OGL4MPje66wmXx6cjsU2NhykxV19ak8n1Cgqomwtyn1Ihw3MnO-aFYHRZyU3FQAg4ToGiHclZQjilWs6hH-1FHN3rxPcFQDJBozIOU3nAKzmN55wq8uv4kWLucx/s2048/DSCF0022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWA6MxNnowCIGhdox1OGL4MPje66wmXx6cjsU2NhykxV19ak8n1Cgqomwtyn1Ihw3MnO-aFYHRZyU3FQAg4ToGiHclZQjilWs6hH-1FHN3rxPcFQDJBozIOU3nAKzmN55wq8uv4kWLucx/s320/DSCF0022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOXMQc4C8MLbattmENU-hRn_1lqfPcE1mS7Xx-BQdW8o_xB4TPRmuqRMR_sEwb-oGsO8QVsguj9S05UAyoekrgF5cLSdynlFz7o-XzRZAhvu_bw76bWM-B5e_r4iU2uYQAAc92mlz_dJB/s2048/DSCF0025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQOXMQc4C8MLbattmENU-hRn_1lqfPcE1mS7Xx-BQdW8o_xB4TPRmuqRMR_sEwb-oGsO8QVsguj9S05UAyoekrgF5cLSdynlFz7o-XzRZAhvu_bw76bWM-B5e_r4iU2uYQAAc92mlz_dJB/s320/DSCF0025.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja90JOufmr66AMwI27D_Z0NjQDQvdN98LuBgO2joBvoKxAyxMxt6u1KvZ3to0QtJ2GPTIfr5bS7xxGhwRbj4VY0Cwl_ec3IHW6LBPZGXzL8bfupkWyTKnFed9GM33fSv07_5o_iv388StN/s2048/DSCF0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja90JOufmr66AMwI27D_Z0NjQDQvdN98LuBgO2joBvoKxAyxMxt6u1KvZ3to0QtJ2GPTIfr5bS7xxGhwRbj4VY0Cwl_ec3IHW6LBPZGXzL8bfupkWyTKnFed9GM33fSv07_5o_iv388StN/s320/DSCF0029.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-37683875541937837012020-10-11T20:45:00.000-07:002020-10-11T20:45:11.680-07:00An 1830s Sewing BoxThis was an incredibly fun pet project of mine these last few months. It took a while but ended up being gorgeous!<br />
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So I needed some type of sewing box to be Sarah. Being from an incredibly wealthy family, I know she would have quite the sewing box of her own. My goal was to create something similar to what she may have owned (alas, we have no record of where she kept her sewing implements) without breaking the budget. I was determined to create a period-correct sewing case that looked like it belonged to someone who could afford the absolute best, while still being able to afford such an article on a modern day teacher's budget. This was the result.<br />
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It started with a box. A sad little box that was in need of a LOT of TLC. But hey, I bought it for $30 off Etsy so I suppose I couldn't complain.<div><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEFKB6j9xATsZ4lBLImCkcXpfk_PbjKUkqjCgyJb4DnrIY5ngnyjIWQPC9_2GxSlOjCznOZxxVRgyclFwlGUfIZLQP5C6mYJmUcCjwAqGq7A0fGk5BwvNRU6ysZ7z4Lp7LanCH95nTB5Q8/s1600/IMG_6787.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEFKB6j9xATsZ4lBLImCkcXpfk_PbjKUkqjCgyJb4DnrIY5ngnyjIWQPC9_2GxSlOjCznOZxxVRgyclFwlGUfIZLQP5C6mYJmUcCjwAqGq7A0fGk5BwvNRU6ysZ7z4Lp7LanCH95nTB5Q8/s320/IMG_6787.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The exterior was in decent condition. There were two deep cracks on the top of the box as well as a pretty significant one on the bottom underneath some lovely poly-cotton fabric that was glued to the bottom. The interior was far worse.<br />
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Oh, yes. Take in all that glorious reflective green paper coverage. And the lovely, complementary orange paper on the top. I don't know who made these choices, but I have to question their sanity.<br />
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On the bottom of the tray insert was some marbled paper, perhaps from when the box was first made. I opted to leave it there even though I would be covering it in silk.<br />
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Underneath the orange was white paper and underneath the green was silver paper. The white and silver papers were very difficult to get off. It took about 12 hours of continuous work to get all the scraps torn away. But finally, I was left with a blank slate to work with.<br />
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The tray was missing a side so I took it to my dad who added a back and also stabilized the cracks in the wood. Then it was ready to be recovered.<br />
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I chose a lovely aqua blue silk taffeta for the new interior. I tested a lot of different glues but found that Elmer's school glue worked the best and was least likely to leave stains on the front. I still have a few stains-I have decided that I will blame them on Sarah's then 8 year old son, John Austin. I shall also be blaming the cracks on the box on him as well. After all, what good is a fake son if I can't blame all my project flaws on him?<br /><br />
The tray ended up being a bit tight once I put the silk in, but it still works so I opted to leave it. It was then time to look into how I wanted to organize the tray.<br />
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Hygra.com has so many wonderful antique sewing boxes (and other boxes, too-I used them when looking for a portable writing desk) from the early 18th century up until the 1870s. For this project, I pulled only the boxes with good photos of the interiors and only sewing boxes dated from 1820-1835.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_lmujs9eXVlpmUBL-A_24kpfEjkZ-m3-0D9_Tvpy2hmCkak0Czug5SbrQnAH1v767cqcgdyYs2FL2SLQoVB1cQ2FhQj3lNWcdi46fNcdNfaMiXVzBhdPiltkYN3mU5G2JXgfnO7ygtrcv/s1600/1.1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="299" data-original-width="445" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_lmujs9eXVlpmUBL-A_24kpfEjkZ-m3-0D9_Tvpy2hmCkak0Czug5SbrQnAH1v767cqcgdyYs2FL2SLQoVB1cQ2FhQj3lNWcdi46fNcdNfaMiXVzBhdPiltkYN3mU5G2JXgfnO7ygtrcv/s200/1.1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hygra.com/uk/sb/SB492/">1835</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqu1X3RSTNiroKWBY-pIjh5lIg_hkFUgz5Thx5Oegl5_v6IG_ajxpqaCURHTMlMo8Xpn3HDujjXI1uFssNCBwSTUb6ZBJrmuoJk17hC2Rsp3tI44Nx2urSXuu8IBqTY5wrlMFnG8abw8-/s1600/1.2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="640" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqu1X3RSTNiroKWBY-pIjh5lIg_hkFUgz5Thx5Oegl5_v6IG_ajxpqaCURHTMlMo8Xpn3HDujjXI1uFssNCBwSTUb6ZBJrmuoJk17hC2Rsp3tI44Nx2urSXuu8IBqTY5wrlMFnG8abw8-/s200/1.2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hygra.com/uk/sb/SB492/">1835</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLOFO46YfNSeAzEpPKhZMKL4VXAlsYo0VrwlDiV_89mc9zBOOVUDCdmy5J0Dvttb9I3E38ScLS4gqykAU0qXaouz84CPFDSFkBa_kaEJLhf6J7kyShbl9lu0Tonh8eztAhkXojJCEszsnt/s1600/2.1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="293" data-original-width="391" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLOFO46YfNSeAzEpPKhZMKL4VXAlsYo0VrwlDiV_89mc9zBOOVUDCdmy5J0Dvttb9I3E38ScLS4gqykAU0qXaouz84CPFDSFkBa_kaEJLhf6J7kyShbl9lu0Tonh8eztAhkXojJCEszsnt/s200/2.1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hygra.com/uk/sb/SB454/">1820</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVBhq9AbSsDccrNxz_qXXSmWFDsBK5jvNgV8JcV_D1mWCmImhgc1Ihmjs01PUi6-KoKOvql9j7C3bV45iIfwFZ6ZSuVgPeUGpIit5iPzXsAgsrRR8o0I15u-pgYtYxudMd14KfE9qXppo/s1600/2.2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="263" data-original-width="396" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVBhq9AbSsDccrNxz_qXXSmWFDsBK5jvNgV8JcV_D1mWCmImhgc1Ihmjs01PUi6-KoKOvql9j7C3bV45iIfwFZ6ZSuVgPeUGpIit5iPzXsAgsrRR8o0I15u-pgYtYxudMd14KfE9qXppo/s200/2.2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
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So many options!</div><div><br /></div><div>I decided to have ten spools of thread, five on each side. One side for cotton thread and the other for silk. Most period sewing references include 2 thimbles, so that was a must. I also wanted a needlebook, a tape measure, an emery board, a pincushion, a thread waxer, and a place for hooks/eyes and buttons.</div><div><br /></div><div>The resulting shape from my compartments looks similar to the first original with the purple velvet lining.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggCT-Zma44Kc5U8mxF4k5-4vBHS65SLOj8mPLyOoOFvNCNGCgwrFm9ZeMQk8IJR1qzsijCGAUVwg_n7ZRrcS0kXgz-JNv8-ez12cGLTjMyCZw1amtJCNJ0BvNwKmTchTjutwAw0eUS5Gc_/s2016/IMG_7156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggCT-Zma44Kc5U8mxF4k5-4vBHS65SLOj8mPLyOoOFvNCNGCgwrFm9ZeMQk8IJR1qzsijCGAUVwg_n7ZRrcS0kXgz-JNv8-ez12cGLTjMyCZw1amtJCNJ0BvNwKmTchTjutwAw0eUS5Gc_/s320/IMG_7156.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Now came the fun part. Filling it!<br />
<br />For basic sewing tools, I opted for mother of pearl pieces as they matched the mother of pearl detailing on the actual box. I bought plain silver scissors, as frequently seen in the original boxes but bought mother of pearl button hook and awl. I couldn't find a mother of pearl bodkin so I went with bone for that piece.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2EJy2E6mWf56HwQgHn0FSSO_euBu91QyG-zbrxPUocZPY8ZO0vIlXMIG3m4nAvJBioXVnWjLfRzyXszoIHdPndq8uJgAmwZMrDIHJJREWxm9keaFtdPFNVbFHF3lAKXfG_t1lOVC8Vnnh/s2016/IMG_7155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2EJy2E6mWf56HwQgHn0FSSO_euBu91QyG-zbrxPUocZPY8ZO0vIlXMIG3m4nAvJBioXVnWjLfRzyXszoIHdPndq8uJgAmwZMrDIHJJREWxm9keaFtdPFNVbFHF3lAKXfG_t1lOVC8Vnnh/s320/IMG_7155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br />
Thimbles were easy. I used a silver one and a mother of pearl one.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoYgfCAZAHfMvogHXCQIJU0y5cMRIYUQuJuPQBGcIPokAiiKDaM4yY9wKmGHg1ShazLApyOdHiaAek9EGtjdSeFHmP2ymTouEW28B5krwVwUI7kH50pgElsDM0y73K6vsj9CklRMUA-iZp/s2016/IMG_7178.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoYgfCAZAHfMvogHXCQIJU0y5cMRIYUQuJuPQBGcIPokAiiKDaM4yY9wKmGHg1ShazLApyOdHiaAek9EGtjdSeFHmP2ymTouEW28B5krwVwUI7kH50pgElsDM0y73K6vsj9CklRMUA-iZp/s320/IMG_7178.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>I found an antique tape measure made of mother of pearl. I would have preferred it to have a blue ribbon, but beggars can't be choosers.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPcEtgB2G6BzbRXYvi1QssFxp7NKFqIcO8Xonok7ly9z6dzof72MA7bbvaqnQCigDVGfpwfBToHkbKsc13AJnH4xW3nSjjJe2aFhwpPqD1p__fVXWBYyVz62pAsNYY6v_22PtxdlXFPPnt/s2016/IMG_7177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPcEtgB2G6BzbRXYvi1QssFxp7NKFqIcO8Xonok7ly9z6dzof72MA7bbvaqnQCigDVGfpwfBToHkbKsc13AJnH4xW3nSjjJe2aFhwpPqD1p__fVXWBYyVz62pAsNYY6v_22PtxdlXFPPnt/s320/IMG_7177.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>The pincushion is basically a circle filled with emery sand and sawdust. I put a little pendant on the bottom to create a sort of stand.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTVeGCMxxtM6eFceAcEAb2hHg8nb31mxiBEf0mJVVo5o7RDzEW0mMP7vP8ukpekcnFzCYBFsRbsF6sRJ4H0GSZYRcpAMtzEDpCqjV4BkoKdMjGM3jH3OOnrwO31w_K4h6az0547SyngDR/s2016/IMG_7179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTVeGCMxxtM6eFceAcEAb2hHg8nb31mxiBEf0mJVVo5o7RDzEW0mMP7vP8ukpekcnFzCYBFsRbsF6sRJ4H0GSZYRcpAMtzEDpCqjV4BkoKdMjGM3jH3OOnrwO31w_K4h6az0547SyngDR/s320/IMG_7179.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxJF9kHl9mJqFCXDzsdb3rzkqwuFZQHcd4pIHJ_2_mOq4k5LzksOoXLVqtHypf4RPkxPFD1g6aWhH27R5F7KTR5gedpFULUVMDRo4YiGkJIGtldnjeOZEfoxEx3XcN3f9rvwbgPGWSjQr/s2016/IMG_7180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxJF9kHl9mJqFCXDzsdb3rzkqwuFZQHcd4pIHJ_2_mOq4k5LzksOoXLVqtHypf4RPkxPFD1g6aWhH27R5F7KTR5gedpFULUVMDRo4YiGkJIGtldnjeOZEfoxEx3XcN3f9rvwbgPGWSjQr/s320/IMG_7180.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>The thread waxer and emery board/needle sharpener were made to mimic several originals I have seen.</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVdL98mpYqGg4FjC5BkavgSCAEvudwiyY2jmADqEvRXdyvFbloqONOGZpQLvbOhOXozQ0wX0uDf54HWzbHDPR-Y6a2hPXtVo1OV-qImDmeeAiDvSoczDQ6QQnoWkjRY0-Lqq6gF_rgNKdC/s1024/hygra+%252812%2529+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVdL98mpYqGg4FjC5BkavgSCAEvudwiyY2jmADqEvRXdyvFbloqONOGZpQLvbOhOXozQ0wX0uDf54HWzbHDPR-Y6a2hPXtVo1OV-qImDmeeAiDvSoczDQ6QQnoWkjRY0-Lqq6gF_rgNKdC/s320/hygra+%252812%2529+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hygra, original spools, thread waxer, and needle cleaner</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxG4Q0C5TkkDuwXx-hqlUNzNria8yLIR8n61qb3sOJyEWWl2N4v9nkGjRBaYahNzAXyaqOSmPHVuf5lEQjDkRVXiG0-Y8d31GSOsAW8E0vDeaLxflfN91PzWO_hNTU5mPpK6GrKFCcdaBQ/s2016/IMG_7148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxG4Q0C5TkkDuwXx-hqlUNzNria8yLIR8n61qb3sOJyEWWl2N4v9nkGjRBaYahNzAXyaqOSmPHVuf5lEQjDkRVXiG0-Y8d31GSOsAW8E0vDeaLxflfN91PzWO_hNTU5mPpK6GrKFCcdaBQ/s320/IMG_7148.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYJRm9bvt9KwiYvU_cipKp_yteRZ6VWxs0Xb4E4rQMNJupiwGjXgh02s4Ii21D4ssTE4NPICHF9Xaw6z6jK5a8Z5NQK8HbOfcRv1ZJ-9oDXYeDSHKVX5CcPR_D9Y-IEzmOUFhPEf26SrO/s2016/IMG_7150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQYJRm9bvt9KwiYvU_cipKp_yteRZ6VWxs0Xb4E4rQMNJupiwGjXgh02s4Ii21D4ssTE4NPICHF9Xaw6z6jK5a8Z5NQK8HbOfcRv1ZJ-9oDXYeDSHKVX5CcPR_D9Y-IEzmOUFhPEf26SrO/s320/IMG_7150.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div>The spools were made to mimic originals. I used mother of pearl pendants in a sunflower pattern for the tops and bottoms (larger versions of the pendants used in the thread waxer, emery board, and pincushion) and glued a long, thin glass bead on half (to mimic mother of pearl) and a thicker bone bead on the other half of the pendants. These two halves fit together and you can put a wooden spool in between them.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsaitkSnNj_vH_fUs4bFoqGX6ym7gxG0CKIUJxO8HbjdzYffeiLEDTW8Qa2rKRvcmDjjtgmGm9YyFEzSvGyTEpmmyAUoV2ehMn9omh8FqiRLqSBwxzDE2h_zN5y1AJZrXMweQXgmajObmV/s2016/IMG_7147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsaitkSnNj_vH_fUs4bFoqGX6ym7gxG0CKIUJxO8HbjdzYffeiLEDTW8Qa2rKRvcmDjjtgmGm9YyFEzSvGyTEpmmyAUoV2ehMn9omh8FqiRLqSBwxzDE2h_zN5y1AJZrXMweQXgmajObmV/s320/IMG_7147.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>I made some buttons out of the spoons for the handles on the button and hook/eye compartment lids.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29vFLzFWHv6h13_E15PWOkQEDm1ZzYi1dCeYQR10WsInivnDDJr4lVycqNhu1ZSWsdSwClxdNIoDN0VVpkAW5wE7CwaeHzLnOvE_SyU79DgwvoxeffM-pFf_yzdnXHKAQ9jQ9XcnjJT7E/s2016/IMG_7160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29vFLzFWHv6h13_E15PWOkQEDm1ZzYi1dCeYQR10WsInivnDDJr4lVycqNhu1ZSWsdSwClxdNIoDN0VVpkAW5wE7CwaeHzLnOvE_SyU79DgwvoxeffM-pFf_yzdnXHKAQ9jQ9XcnjJT7E/s320/IMG_7160.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNdDyuA3Tu9_TkYHtY8vEBz0nUkPlenktIRniMnH9YDLezhMU-sISAefUfZzKsp1FaAi5y7sLBnakvYHl1Q4gNOC43pf85PeGNd9P6tI9DfcKe5tkfr1-0abW18xJR-9zE8XYekBZzUtxr/s2016/IMG_7161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNdDyuA3Tu9_TkYHtY8vEBz0nUkPlenktIRniMnH9YDLezhMU-sISAefUfZzKsp1FaAi5y7sLBnakvYHl1Q4gNOC43pf85PeGNd9P6tI9DfcKe5tkfr1-0abW18xJR-9zE8XYekBZzUtxr/s320/IMG_7161.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>I added a large pair of dressmaker's sheers to the inside of the box as well.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjump0AEbp_u1tU0W879ubtAubyeUCdfRoRl8EJk5pXd7ExGqNlniOzpkwpDenV4fcLpNMdHLgO0dhw7YqDSI2jmEKrTgiUriOVZeHNPk4OJ3OLVIv_gA8SRnOiNIgIO9N50yRoTELQtZVX/s2016/IMG_7163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjump0AEbp_u1tU0W879ubtAubyeUCdfRoRl8EJk5pXd7ExGqNlniOzpkwpDenV4fcLpNMdHLgO0dhw7YqDSI2jmEKrTgiUriOVZeHNPk4OJ3OLVIv_gA8SRnOiNIgIO9N50yRoTELQtZVX/s320/IMG_7163.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Underneath the scissors compartment, I put my needle case. I made a beaded one with glass beads and perforated paper. I lined it in the same silk as the rest of the sewing box and used the same color silk ribbon to tie it off. The interior is wool felt. I love how it turned out!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0tdRSpVZELBXoFIntJjhNbKRK9Ho7pbYMqUA0hpU3eaYKd5CIeaozXcYIX4RwO8j1JKhH8-J47HSvcdV6RAik-mAt5ykBxSAHkXux7u3gxhLGaPCvfLtiBoDZFTMWqqKPLJu_BCs4mK-/s415/sbvmop09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="415" data-original-width="315" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0tdRSpVZELBXoFIntJjhNbKRK9Ho7pbYMqUA0hpU3eaYKd5CIeaozXcYIX4RwO8j1JKhH8-J47HSvcdV6RAik-mAt5ykBxSAHkXux7u3gxhLGaPCvfLtiBoDZFTMWqqKPLJu_BCs4mK-/s320/sbvmop09.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hygra, original 1830s beaded needle case<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNN8EBuAvDMpIODmrU8H-QduYBOGUjwyWh-IIAVqmfGgX4OjM13hNc8vNfNgKDWxXyOPvcxRMa-CjhPYZNTqccSlsv34-ERmLiOMqm2MIdeCsW0koAXv5PcT048_Pn-SmyfuSto92W04z/s2016/IMG_7157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNN8EBuAvDMpIODmrU8H-QduYBOGUjwyWh-IIAVqmfGgX4OjM13hNc8vNfNgKDWxXyOPvcxRMa-CjhPYZNTqccSlsv34-ERmLiOMqm2MIdeCsW0koAXv5PcT048_Pn-SmyfuSto92W04z/s320/IMG_7157.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5WfzAtIMuvgyslqmQAnFvF2cBk0-RkZwkEUb5GySTYWGgrICfaVzf9py2aZLa0zm2n7GGom4m4jTc5_r-LsODIPZVsRsQqpyQIohr2pg11dsNjgOwdiQVWpInk_HTIF9dkZP6EGWxamXd/s2016/IMG_7159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5WfzAtIMuvgyslqmQAnFvF2cBk0-RkZwkEUb5GySTYWGgrICfaVzf9py2aZLa0zm2n7GGom4m4jTc5_r-LsODIPZVsRsQqpyQIohr2pg11dsNjgOwdiQVWpInk_HTIF9dkZP6EGWxamXd/s320/IMG_7159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Overall, I am extremely happy with the finished product!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP3opdftp16YRNgjnI5mmS2W2W5xEv3uMwVN8iOl0dk7GUJrld6vnpVKCNFaAya1ZPjng1WSckGPjP67h5GdUsHA1fnlyhPgt0PdgS8zFFpnxSBuKfQ4eSsgG529ALx34cIvR44Y18GNMm/s2016/IMG_7156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP3opdftp16YRNgjnI5mmS2W2W5xEv3uMwVN8iOl0dk7GUJrld6vnpVKCNFaAya1ZPjng1WSckGPjP67h5GdUsHA1fnlyhPgt0PdgS8zFFpnxSBuKfQ4eSsgG529ALx34cIvR44Y18GNMm/s320/IMG_7156.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZXeushzGG4zbfUY2vXn0VYYb3nUf3xGrmRc9imrn8tXjNXIXKNF6oFzQYDQkVZXpf8yiYE8MR6zFIvsIQb_GH97yiPUv_3nJLaL39PZivbW2Y8wLQwVdsPsCZO8Zs-y9wWWqvnijJiUIF/s2016/IMG_7164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZXeushzGG4zbfUY2vXn0VYYb3nUf3xGrmRc9imrn8tXjNXIXKNF6oFzQYDQkVZXpf8yiYE8MR6zFIvsIQb_GH97yiPUv_3nJLaL39PZivbW2Y8wLQwVdsPsCZO8Zs-y9wWWqvnijJiUIF/s320/IMG_7164.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQ8kEA0mpqEHPU8ivjtuDVlMhq44R5vyIrZBdtnUlvsgfkEAE8NJsMdp8ctcZzr33E3NsCM5_MbFn0gzpoOTSQFSeJM_ZyPQPWEXrIOtg51VQdKSlkwDx6NLdNH_CNhGlcydCyxy0u3w1/s2016/IMG_7165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQ8kEA0mpqEHPU8ivjtuDVlMhq44R5vyIrZBdtnUlvsgfkEAE8NJsMdp8ctcZzr33E3NsCM5_MbFn0gzpoOTSQFSeJM_ZyPQPWEXrIOtg51VQdKSlkwDx6NLdNH_CNhGlcydCyxy0u3w1/s320/IMG_7165.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsqqBvoGX1ZSSodeAawe8HO_CtuoT2I8vbKuv_HEs4xTgksSQ4u4NTVEwzPeCFecmK2lbBs5l9u2h36Hi3nQzRoEY7wV54dNJyQnsw1O8AlWVMHyfagOUKNyVE32kIoEHIlUqf647VkEI/s2016/IMG_7166.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMsqqBvoGX1ZSSodeAawe8HO_CtuoT2I8vbKuv_HEs4xTgksSQ4u4NTVEwzPeCFecmK2lbBs5l9u2h36Hi3nQzRoEY7wV54dNJyQnsw1O8AlWVMHyfagOUKNyVE32kIoEHIlUqf647VkEI/s320/IMG_7166.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ZRgj0xsY3NvNxZFXBvP0RnbOkEFZPfpdUNhiLGmlb_hO0tlg63gxPhGx7rOFxICtq74HitsfMy0iRq7bHNrogzMSqXBguRGqfBx_AVWRS-SeoGqYuU0r5gWJBq-alYyLewv9iRzEbqTD/s2016/IMG_7167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ZRgj0xsY3NvNxZFXBvP0RnbOkEFZPfpdUNhiLGmlb_hO0tlg63gxPhGx7rOFxICtq74HitsfMy0iRq7bHNrogzMSqXBguRGqfBx_AVWRS-SeoGqYuU0r5gWJBq-alYyLewv9iRzEbqTD/s320/IMG_7167.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKuTNrjE5w44kjPv4-H9EkJ6kleGn4P_aAumyai4kVQYBL4KcWd3KJcJ41YOKCQD0D61_K9eBM_Uznwz-Tya6pRZ-HOSwsC2_BWzbQd31RBUR2qjzQOMOAzWTqIoTmD6xKWrOLOV_fyfLB/s2016/IMG_7168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKuTNrjE5w44kjPv4-H9EkJ6kleGn4P_aAumyai4kVQYBL4KcWd3KJcJ41YOKCQD0D61_K9eBM_Uznwz-Tya6pRZ-HOSwsC2_BWzbQd31RBUR2qjzQOMOAzWTqIoTmD6xKWrOLOV_fyfLB/s320/IMG_7168.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinF5eLJTIuw8kQq7RVciCx0HoigAvPYlfKbwUk-IPbywRPo6fMyEa_TgE2fNwvXgmtn_nwuiFf0INRJp9spW2FGFTb-IpVegiIvx-JWkWhcJit4CmvPLOULlIojPI-bblYgWuk6pvaoDMX/s2016/IMG_7169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinF5eLJTIuw8kQq7RVciCx0HoigAvPYlfKbwUk-IPbywRPo6fMyEa_TgE2fNwvXgmtn_nwuiFf0INRJp9spW2FGFTb-IpVegiIvx-JWkWhcJit4CmvPLOULlIojPI-bblYgWuk6pvaoDMX/s320/IMG_7169.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Enjoy!</div>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-3848434920098326952020-10-05T08:29:00.001-07:002020-10-05T08:29:07.787-07:00A Pair of 1860s Evening HeaddressLooking ahead to finishing the evening gown that will go with the day bodice I modeled after the original in my collection, I decided I needed a headdress for it. I found this lovely painting of a lady in a black gown that served as the base inspiration for the piece. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRPWY5FvrAifYHi6xgn5toj_KooO6FcAPS4OLH8uajLlGmZzoUN-FO1Hmzyt7PxTx2tPhfsrmcjJo2Opxs8dLehCI_kppjntmuuoOQK7ewOBvLWWgmQF22DLHqM64nEl0x57IQcYb0aur/s1600/e1dc78e2bea36cc3f183f0501ccffcf1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRPWY5FvrAifYHi6xgn5toj_KooO6FcAPS4OLH8uajLlGmZzoUN-FO1Hmzyt7PxTx2tPhfsrmcjJo2Opxs8dLehCI_kppjntmuuoOQK7ewOBvLWWgmQF22DLHqM64nEl0x57IQcYb0aur/s320/e1dc78e2bea36cc3f183f0501ccffcf1.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of Karoline Stiffel-Ecalard, n.d. by Friedrich von Amerling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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To accomplish this piece, I ordered 2 yards of morning glory blue silk satin ribbon and 2 heather sprays in the mango colorway from Timely Tresses. I also used some millinery wire and a faux tortoise shell comb from the stash.<br />
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To start off with, I arranged the heather sprays across the comb and attached it with millinery wire. I used some hidden stitches to attach a few more silk leaves from the stash to more closely mimic the original inspiration. To hide the joining of the two sprigs of flowers, I made a large bow with the blue ribbon and stitched it to the comb.<br />
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The second head-dress is meant to be worn with the lilac Chantilly dress and is technically two headdresses itself.<br />
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The first is a simple floral wreath, similar to the blue and yellow one above but without a bow. I used two blush freesias from Timely Tresses and attached them to a faux tortoise shell comb just like the previous comb. Simple enough!<br />
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Flowers were super popular for evening wear, if "Godey's Lady's Book" and other fashion magazines are anything to go by.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLE5GEK2QNMPxbH3fpohH9GFgiIN3q7o7OJYWAly84aEYg7xQxIi2Eagvk928p4Pcde8g6nlr9oCIWYMxmVj38VPbiYx3kYh-oEqPs_Lb4UAK8p-tST-PLixIJisYwyQCRGi-m5Yl8R62j/s1600/2c1b9082718b1dc00e0549dec2b31ebf.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="276" data-original-width="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLE5GEK2QNMPxbH3fpohH9GFgiIN3q7o7OJYWAly84aEYg7xQxIi2Eagvk928p4Pcde8g6nlr9oCIWYMxmVj38VPbiYx3kYh-oEqPs_Lb4UAK8p-tST-PLixIJisYwyQCRGi-m5Yl8R62j/s1600/2c1b9082718b1dc00e0549dec2b31ebf.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Mode Illustree, 1867... later than our time period<br />
but this was one of the only engravings that showed<br />
the comb, too.</td></tr>
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The second part of the headdress was a simple bow of the same silver silk satin ribbon with which I trimmed the lilac Chantilly gown. I got the inspiration from the following fashion plate (lower right):<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEKIxY-bekUtPzsSE5r0IUnotcUHRLwyOZUb3Nwqzhm9Sx2hxT7kx_tBWcMQmSGprDV6FXGkQji6aP-nnCn_js4BsavJ4HD75F2ZH6z7I5_-Pq50w2-shebMkhJ8J_y-P1s1dMpTFCCwKd/s1600/0149d2b04a2e765295c33a21dfc99c32.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="491" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEKIxY-bekUtPzsSE5r0IUnotcUHRLwyOZUb3Nwqzhm9Sx2hxT7kx_tBWcMQmSGprDV6FXGkQji6aP-nnCn_js4BsavJ4HD75F2ZH6z7I5_-Pq50w2-shebMkhJ8J_y-P1s1dMpTFCCwKd/s320/0149d2b04a2e765295c33a21dfc99c32.jpg" width="245" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #111111; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: left;">Magasin des Demoiselles, November 1861</span></td></tr>
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I did attach the bow to a half faux tortoise shell comb so it can slide right into my hair. Overall, a very simple project!<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-28673738570257895192020-09-28T08:16:00.001-07:002020-09-28T08:16:46.328-07:00Fixing It - The Lilac and Chantilly DressThis dress we've seen before on the blog in the following posts.<br />
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<a href="https://atimeinhistory.blogspot.com/2017/04/lilac-day-bodice-and-fichu.html">Day Bodice</a><br />
<a href="https://atimeinhistory.blogspot.com/2017/02/lilac-and-chantilly-evening-gown.html">Evening Bodice</a><br />
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But still, things needed to be done with it. More with the day bodice than the evening one, but still, plenty of work to be done.<br />
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For the evening gown, just a few small tweaks were needed. The hooks and eyes needed to be redone as they were too large and spaced out too much. I also covered the edge of the Chantilly lace in a narrow velvet ribbon, after seeing the edges covered in original gowns.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijAjFQLwVZkfaRBmiNRpBjx70adB54vCThf9rzr7KohZd6Zi7F0nbWGWfXQSaFA33g7DvCkabiNEH_xfwc7_U1JG0ucJoydFJMbngs0IbYkjrbilWAblsFmykYP7QmVTJ3wrgLljKhY9mZ/s1600/097be0f9e43624865fac9cb00750c622.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="317" data-original-width="343" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijAjFQLwVZkfaRBmiNRpBjx70adB54vCThf9rzr7KohZd6Zi7F0nbWGWfXQSaFA33g7DvCkabiNEH_xfwc7_U1JG0ucJoydFJMbngs0IbYkjrbilWAblsFmykYP7QmVTJ3wrgLljKhY9mZ/s320/097be0f9e43624865fac9cb00750c622.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original from Time Traveler's Antiques. This was the original design<br />
inspiration for the Chantilly evening gown. The lace covering appears<br />
to be self fabric pleating.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Ebay. Looks to be covered with flat-applied velvet ribbon.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHSeyt-GFwZQLZbLEWHrtfR9_rOgms3zSViPAJ-D5d9BSd4llwmjYBDpZ1VXl2E_5A3EIKYje8sXD1HaLPVgF9jy6sLY7dIu2_dgCuJ7GJJNnpp7qeJ2PfX-blyJjp-7gIQEa0MMQwjr6-/s1600/0041.4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="720" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHSeyt-GFwZQLZbLEWHrtfR9_rOgms3zSViPAJ-D5d9BSd4llwmjYBDpZ1VXl2E_5A3EIKYje8sXD1HaLPVgF9jy6sLY7dIu2_dgCuJ7GJJNnpp7qeJ2PfX-blyJjp-7gIQEa0MMQwjr6-/s320/0041.4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Augusta Auctions. Lace is covered with a silk pleating. It's the<br />
same color as the dress fabric but appears to be different.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As far as the bows, I ended up replacing the self fabric ones with a silver silk satin ribbon. You do see evening dresses trimmed with colors the same as the dress, and since this dress is a lilac shot with silver gown, I figured a silver ribbon would work.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeRXfswjLrExp-ksefrw404Bxxi6o6u7gh30Jld3VL6dZx2TovjeeZ62hMMonjqkljsZk6Fyua2q_856puijmchwQA4c_0yV5cFPzzDjws9ESsEZoMIKFdZ_TJc7B_3itCmv8k5D69Ivdd/s1600/c8eb80af8b00a1801417d171095fe68b.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeRXfswjLrExp-ksefrw404Bxxi6o6u7gh30Jld3VL6dZx2TovjeeZ62hMMonjqkljsZk6Fyua2q_856puijmchwQA4c_0yV5cFPzzDjws9ESsEZoMIKFdZ_TJc7B_3itCmv8k5D69Ivdd/s320/c8eb80af8b00a1801417d171095fe68b.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown fashion plate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8qllyD1YCIvXkfk2okfq43EAnf4oYlTl2sNgdqJDjy54qWU_Ch9B9FToskqUgKZs2S6jaaQsjNfFxBH17SHBJsDSe8sjGZEMYZxri__ggjUoR3gQ3qnJf2VAVgF_-hivWX73D37swQzb/s1600/2d7dfb0c8f0270956aa6660c658fd2cb.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8qllyD1YCIvXkfk2okfq43EAnf4oYlTl2sNgdqJDjy54qWU_Ch9B9FToskqUgKZs2S6jaaQsjNfFxBH17SHBJsDSe8sjGZEMYZxri__ggjUoR3gQ3qnJf2VAVgF_-hivWX73D37swQzb/s320/2d7dfb0c8f0270956aa6660c658fd2cb.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Moda Elegante Illustrada, 1865</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I didn't add a big bow at the neckline (where the original inspiration has a large cluster of flowers) because I figured I could put a brooch there instead. After making a pretty little tucker and attaching it, the evening bodice was done! The tucker is a pleated one, based on several originals like this one:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3AfynXiLNbHxAZBi8y1JqudCDze69uNnIhA6srFMVrRXnHVwbLRLePLGjolT28J-cRotwXkmUJpA-VOSyoCj3AL0mLFpx3zRVz00gq07tdWRXckR70aqHIkhMJACIudSVjVrT0Z2RUpOf/s1600/b1a981c8abc97bcc1aab3d42b544870e.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="563" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3AfynXiLNbHxAZBi8y1JqudCDze69uNnIhA6srFMVrRXnHVwbLRLePLGjolT28J-cRotwXkmUJpA-VOSyoCj3AL0mLFpx3zRVz00gq07tdWRXckR70aqHIkhMJACIudSVjVrT0Z2RUpOf/s320/b1a981c8abc97bcc1aab3d42b544870e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown collection.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFx1a-rRgexaq3vUnAg57WfvVRc2gGOYvzi-_rDLAHnxaDHjsxsAIDa7Mq8ivI9A_JbNYqJUgs2LJSZVXHQ7QEUx5BcNQbgk-HXOW1QC1lovwDthNK8kJFyP4eZjg1CualQbZW1EfQNwug/s1600/DSCF0026.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFx1a-rRgexaq3vUnAg57WfvVRc2gGOYvzi-_rDLAHnxaDHjsxsAIDa7Mq8ivI9A_JbNYqJUgs2LJSZVXHQ7QEUx5BcNQbgk-HXOW1QC1lovwDthNK8kJFyP4eZjg1CualQbZW1EfQNwug/s320/DSCF0026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvV3lECAun6jdiAaDLrDb0h53GKxZqK61HKD7a9a1XbgEwL92UT-i0LrsLnNw6X7XWFe0LW9s2z99HSRQGkbIIyrUKNE1-wWkQb3L6zJK9flaua3XzGi07HfZ24sJ1ut0jlqjlLxQCvDx/s1600/DSCF0025.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvV3lECAun6jdiAaDLrDb0h53GKxZqK61HKD7a9a1XbgEwL92UT-i0LrsLnNw6X7XWFe0LW9s2z99HSRQGkbIIyrUKNE1-wWkQb3L6zJK9flaua3XzGi07HfZ24sJ1ut0jlqjlLxQCvDx/s320/DSCF0025.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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No pictures of the back as I didn't have anyone to help me do the hooks and eyes therefore I am actually holding the bodice closed with one hand for the pictures!<br />
<br />
Next up was the day bodice, which did need a fair bit of work. The whole bodice front was taken apart so I could extend it 1" on either side to accommodate a larger bust than the last time I wore this gown. Of course, this meant re doing the hooks and eyes and also cutting and making more piping. I also took out the pagoda sleeves and recut silk lining instead of the polished cotton lining it had. The lace had some breaks in it which had to be mended, then I used more velvet ribbon over the edge like the originals.<br />
<br />
The last piece were the accessories. I already had partially done open undersleeves for the dress, I just had to add a second tier of whitework edging to them. I made a collar out of the same edging as well. I also had a handkerchief edged in the same whitework but I had gathered the whitework so I took it out and applied it flat (except at the corners) to more closely mimic originals.<br />
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After attaching these pieces to the day bodice, my work was done!<br /><br />
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Enjoy!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1buVb3DwdclaW0LMOPtT2417R524j9NUukMkL95W5qTk_f12PlCbHpQQiilcDSh3xZqE8XooxeLSFtgp8U7CTcCBAhM7vlDKrIYOZ01Ao4_iwHsLswSoCLG8vzFirD3YxnORRtdgHKem/s2048/DSCF0032.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW1buVb3DwdclaW0LMOPtT2417R524j9NUukMkL95W5qTk_f12PlCbHpQQiilcDSh3xZqE8XooxeLSFtgp8U7CTcCBAhM7vlDKrIYOZ01Ao4_iwHsLswSoCLG8vzFirD3YxnORRtdgHKem/s320/DSCF0032.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwbn_QYlJPoaOqXVsvMjRlHKk1ciPYy8j90ezkPzSnamULH7IAVMqPrHGnUgZ8xG_0JvKwABocNuR24vqp23hNDpryy0Alesz4V4NZ7c-7qZ29DlTGn2j1zRfcclsfZFi21rX6Jh7i5LwC/s2048/DSCF0034.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwbn_QYlJPoaOqXVsvMjRlHKk1ciPYy8j90ezkPzSnamULH7IAVMqPrHGnUgZ8xG_0JvKwABocNuR24vqp23hNDpryy0Alesz4V4NZ7c-7qZ29DlTGn2j1zRfcclsfZFi21rX6Jh7i5LwC/s320/DSCF0034.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_YCQiBLsvJPffDIGlieNAtZRoArOdwhj3vvU66b8N17wsh2vSilkcD_B9gt79WdgJqEr5YjPac7a8k8y5bM8Bt-TREIWANAPMluR_n8JT6o6HeuleIc_6Qh_ZqJEgBdyr8_dR1s3mILP/s2048/DSCF0043.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_YCQiBLsvJPffDIGlieNAtZRoArOdwhj3vvU66b8N17wsh2vSilkcD_B9gt79WdgJqEr5YjPac7a8k8y5bM8Bt-TREIWANAPMluR_n8JT6o6HeuleIc_6Qh_ZqJEgBdyr8_dR1s3mILP/s320/DSCF0043.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7_Vglx80-bSwbTmkorllCZnIh7rObvVFwkuCsqkLFnH_QO3d26bFRWtdWAUt7g6Gw0QVjdx-0Dr45_RlBpol5ewTh9onrXBtIa_hhO_6bISsNN0-Kg9uQpQyTEez5igtaigJMK3o9GmA/s2048/DSCF0050.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ7_Vglx80-bSwbTmkorllCZnIh7rObvVFwkuCsqkLFnH_QO3d26bFRWtdWAUt7g6Gw0QVjdx-0Dr45_RlBpol5ewTh9onrXBtIa_hhO_6bISsNN0-Kg9uQpQyTEez5igtaigJMK3o9GmA/s320/DSCF0050.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixnzZeLfE76Z8RE__NCqapsBJl_YzjdaTzniys5MSfgKIwwW6rHsS5OFPunvdbi1OQpTg2vR0lW-tQjXWaEN6j2ifhXos4i_vk3hgW9MTR2_x3DGzDTScCBstpvHERAnX2bYsk4v1Mg3i6/s2048/DSCF0051.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixnzZeLfE76Z8RE__NCqapsBJl_YzjdaTzniys5MSfgKIwwW6rHsS5OFPunvdbi1OQpTg2vR0lW-tQjXWaEN6j2ifhXos4i_vk3hgW9MTR2_x3DGzDTScCBstpvHERAnX2bYsk4v1Mg3i6/s320/DSCF0051.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-7104609557587834032020-09-21T13:36:00.001-07:002020-09-21T13:36:53.970-07:00Another 1830s CapYes, another one... mostly because I was bored and these things make up super quick-even by hand!<br />
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I used "The Workwoman's Guide" again, with figure 1 and 2 in plate 15. Directions were found on page 121 of my copy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYm1Bd7YwiecWh5LHFFR3fJYnMQ2H7f6XxtKHEftMbR1_YYU4UvdfGm50-DxBoNg_kMk8lK56kWA_nLsVF3AD5eBlyJIOyh2PHfIUu5eWPKZggs9E2_3kUboIWeIK0_DfHaOVIIIXL0SW/s1600/Directions.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="326" data-original-width="593" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVYm1Bd7YwiecWh5LHFFR3fJYnMQ2H7f6XxtKHEftMbR1_YYU4UvdfGm50-DxBoNg_kMk8lK56kWA_nLsVF3AD5eBlyJIOyh2PHfIUu5eWPKZggs9E2_3kUboIWeIK0_DfHaOVIIIXL0SW/s320/Directions.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9tZpZ5WPnjBvgA-ww7WUyTdSAt-tTSTq275VL9yehYT-cg_8C-cACwrPeaWWfr25QghyLVRY3OySLBFD3EfOihjKUEwkOzZf60AbyrDSx6DUQXsVwWlBeW-SdcnGyJy69-L5a49-9FCGs/s1600/Plate.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="135" data-original-width="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9tZpZ5WPnjBvgA-ww7WUyTdSAt-tTSTq275VL9yehYT-cg_8C-cACwrPeaWWfr25QghyLVRY3OySLBFD3EfOihjKUEwkOzZf60AbyrDSx6DUQXsVwWlBeW-SdcnGyJy69-L5a49-9FCGs/s1600/Plate.png" /></a></div>
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The actual making of the cap wasn't too difficult-making the pattern on the other hand required some brain power. Some of the measurements were missing from the directions and the plate was so small that it was hard to read the letters that were there. Eventually, though, I got a working pattern piece.<br />
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I chose to cut my cap out of spotted muslin again. I had plenty of fabric left and I like the effect it gives. I won't say that spotted muslin caps are super popular-most of the originals I've seen are either plain cotton or plain cotton that has been embroidered, but originals do show up spotted.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXkEVJj9aNqsV_ZM3FbqB5Td0kjnH2m_iFw-71bOZfNAVex5O6nLmZd2KmNmd1EN53man57CZ6ib01wNcS6pkTx-Z7lvlOFudoJPC626qAj1JnT-ZutKx1HfcdTZn3OxJ5_D1vIz-Og8_8/s1600/SC33195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1244" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXkEVJj9aNqsV_ZM3FbqB5Td0kjnH2m_iFw-71bOZfNAVex5O6nLmZd2KmNmd1EN53man57CZ6ib01wNcS6pkTx-Z7lvlOFudoJPC626qAj1JnT-ZutKx1HfcdTZn3OxJ5_D1vIz-Og8_8/s320/SC33195.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum of Fine Arts, Boston</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoNUGr-i6jeh2v3h1NcEzbxVkQECfkYQjEciR2RMzi_6GICJyP4h1ksfheymaPBqRtPBrDNit6t-veksi4P0-EZD6Sw_QOMaAK0HzYgprkndfdov0gboblC0DRDDin_JO1_YYoA0D2OEvc/s1600/SC33350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1244" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoNUGr-i6jeh2v3h1NcEzbxVkQECfkYQjEciR2RMzi_6GICJyP4h1ksfheymaPBqRtPBrDNit6t-veksi4P0-EZD6Sw_QOMaAK0HzYgprkndfdov0gboblC0DRDDin_JO1_YYoA0D2OEvc/s320/SC33350.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum of Fine Arts, Boston</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Here's an original made with a very similar pattern to the young lady's cap from "The Workwoman's Guide".<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWUApur50DZTt623cL1vb2m7DnsOoHCA2IBJ8j0ejWNfjINSZVJZqFg9nIMctN7ejVF89m6k647XefblYVnkYaaQUcOmzU6N2prLqBu2wS4kSpt_QH9Az5AE_xjSnEnnFx__VzZIOazyh/s1600/i-SLWQwNC-O.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="431" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWUApur50DZTt623cL1vb2m7DnsOoHCA2IBJ8j0ejWNfjINSZVJZqFg9nIMctN7ejVF89m6k647XefblYVnkYaaQUcOmzU6N2prLqBu2wS4kSpt_QH9Az5AE_xjSnEnnFx__VzZIOazyh/s320/i-SLWQwNC-O.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whitaker's Auctions (Tasha Tudor Collection)</td></tr>
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I trimmed mine with lace and blue silk satin ribbon. I was concerned at first with how tight across the head the cap seemed to be but once I put my hair in the right spot, it magically fit really well. And it fits a lot more hair than it looks like it would!<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-48779476822622157862020-09-14T09:48:00.001-07:002020-09-14T09:48:13.001-07:00Pink Rose HeaddressIn an effort to build up some of the lacking aspects of my wardrobe, I have embarked on making several evening headdresses-starting with this one meant to go with the cotton candy silk dress posted last week (although it will go with both my other 1850s dresses as well). I based it off this painting from 1853:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of Mademoiselle Durand, 1853</td></tr>
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Isn't she elegant? I love the contrast between the light pink florals and her stark black gown. It makes me think this headdress would work very well with the black silk evening bodice that is still to come-that is, if the headdress wouldn't be nearly 10 years out of date by the time the black dress would have been made!<br />
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My supplies included some millinery wire (unknown gauge; I've had this stuff for years. It's mostly 18-22 gauge), 2 velvet rose sprays and 4 azalea bunches from Timely Tresses (all in pink), and some 1.5" black velvet ribbon and silk sleeves from the stash.<br />
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I first took a length of millinery wire and made a headband, 1.25" wide. This was covered in velvet ribbon. After that, it was time to arrange the flowers and hide the stems. Then the whole thing was stitched up neatly and the basting stitches from earlier were taken out. And now I have a nice little 1850s headdress!<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-72021256702807894532020-09-06T18:45:00.001-07:002020-09-06T18:45:32.337-07:00Fixing It - The Cotton Candy Silk TaffetaBack in the costume closet we go-this time to pull out what I affectionately refer to as the 'cotton candy' dress as it is blue and pink.<br />
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Well, actually, it's a mini stripe that is black and pink then shot with blue and then embroidered with black and blue dots, but I still call it the cotton candy dress.<br />
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This dress didn't need so much fixing as it did completing. The skirt was done (and done well-watch pocket, skirt lifters, and everything) but the one time I wore it, I wore it with a black wool basque. I was doing pre-hoop for that event, but the skirt can be worn with either a hoop or multitudes of petticoats. I never got around to cutting or stitching the bodice until now.<br />
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I felt like I still had plenty of fabric to work with. I knew I wanted a low body basque, with a pelerine and removable pagoda sleeves. That would make the gown very versatile and appropriately 1850s. I didn't have an exact original in mind at the time, just a general idea. I wanted something that could serve me in a variety of different events and times of day. Versatile looks were common in the 1850s!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggGqgvAWjC-zllhENOtTmiSF-1brFSx0At0C0rciM6hw7n_-VMOxGqraxsvFHW3zTTy6ZBK5ISs2-CSmXq9v1j8srDVZ0vsJmTjn-VykUw8D4Ecu97-dXi_GruRx5BtRkK_8neTCFHhgLa/s1600/0907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggGqgvAWjC-zllhENOtTmiSF-1brFSx0At0C0rciM6hw7n_-VMOxGqraxsvFHW3zTTy6ZBK5ISs2-CSmXq9v1j8srDVZ0vsJmTjn-VykUw8D4Ecu97-dXi_GruRx5BtRkK_8neTCFHhgLa/s320/0907.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gown sold on Augsta Auctions. This is the day look.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KnrxjHjHuFDGWBbyfu4-SNkEeX5WWz3ji-KZHO-DfPUHA_39_ljTQ9PGdt6VGHTJ-c40DDR07j6TvjeBaKsVWxdCI96ox7axrkhfDvM3M6AUgF3yFrr7xRPCBrcY5-H4HNxmues8uWrg/s1600/0907d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="421" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2KnrxjHjHuFDGWBbyfu4-SNkEeX5WWz3ji-KZHO-DfPUHA_39_ljTQ9PGdt6VGHTJ-c40DDR07j6TvjeBaKsVWxdCI96ox7axrkhfDvM3M6AUgF3yFrr7xRPCBrcY5-H4HNxmues8uWrg/s320/0907d.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same gown, with the lower sleeves and pelerine removed. Cute evening look!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSeItQWUS2g9B2phuyyyj7aZmZUyjoO1jaroIPyR_sj0rh7mPOt_ZrWDFZVJZd8yfxMhiUChQd8lt6xFwcmA71Tz2tlkvKxfx3C8E6Bbec5PRbPWySuAmIMqUuJppZ9CWqzPvWFv2o882U/s1600/c19cb7607a4e8d71e0f19f1edf7b5541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSeItQWUS2g9B2phuyyyj7aZmZUyjoO1jaroIPyR_sj0rh7mPOt_ZrWDFZVJZd8yfxMhiUChQd8lt6xFwcmA71Tz2tlkvKxfx3C8E6Bbec5PRbPWySuAmIMqUuJppZ9CWqzPvWFv2o882U/s320/c19cb7607a4e8d71e0f19f1edf7b5541.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collection of Heather Hook. blue warp-printed silk dress with two day bodices,<br />two evening bodices, and two pelerines.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9L0iiz8pismXAL1IGU86DoBh6lM747OuejLm3GmV1S5HC4A83o7i9a-0ksWZIb5U2gZk2rPeqBpoP2pymHPmSVbyTcY1TYtHWMrhsHKfvaPZPqCVJ1Ix7AQNoRwyrfiEaoEGv1AdsebAm/s1600/6feea4b2ae2ed89a8da2d0723b4e4cbf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="492" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9L0iiz8pismXAL1IGU86DoBh6lM747OuejLm3GmV1S5HC4A83o7i9a-0ksWZIb5U2gZk2rPeqBpoP2pymHPmSVbyTcY1TYtHWMrhsHKfvaPZPqCVJ1Ix7AQNoRwyrfiEaoEGv1AdsebAm/s320/6feea4b2ae2ed89a8da2d0723b4e4cbf.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, 1860s. Evening/dinner look.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFOxdSiZt6S5j_g6UPibRbu-E4fkJaEcuBY5M20nKqSOfG85L7YU1Hzc9sptxsv17dZcuHHpejCA4Yu5UVFNUdtQW584JtSGkMc3QuaKsEeOo4BO5O0HrXHHEMZvQcO5SEbzKzkI0eL_b9/s1600/17cfd88f3041b7b8c3db694bc0a8b96f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="512" data-original-width="389" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFOxdSiZt6S5j_g6UPibRbu-E4fkJaEcuBY5M20nKqSOfG85L7YU1Hzc9sptxsv17dZcuHHpejCA4Yu5UVFNUdtQW584JtSGkMc3QuaKsEeOo4BO5O0HrXHHEMZvQcO5SEbzKzkI0eL_b9/s320/17cfd88f3041b7b8c3db694bc0a8b96f.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same as above, with a pelerine.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm_55q-jbG4wzcPQdPy5Sn-rU2caxHepQKtOOLL6eNXs6tqjoMKZPP8ObfUte4BEwKEGXtM1X5O5Ic3IYvaNnaLfzoh8gRHysqd9l5UQJKACn5xeXPkvpBTvlg1iRvClxn49kuwTM7XjJK/s1600/0475286696f7642b00e4bead0a8efce4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm_55q-jbG4wzcPQdPy5Sn-rU2caxHepQKtOOLL6eNXs6tqjoMKZPP8ObfUte4BEwKEGXtM1X5O5Ic3IYvaNnaLfzoh8gRHysqd9l5UQJKACn5xeXPkvpBTvlg1iRvClxn49kuwTM7XjJK/s320/0475286696f7642b00e4bead0a8efce4.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sold on Ebay. I believe the lower sleeves are removable as well.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuz3rbg2nYXukGkiSR1tuc9hKWjiShgZ4US2tg5CNazHaRbVCX_GOUNFQyjO12kwI3WtK7UAegtLQ50ADGVjgOVR8A0R0ySr_wCnVgLcOPp7NwLEhyW8edQ800KeehQTc8ugWuZ_VqcnRK/s1600/4a05185e718b8d88558960286ed72e4d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="231" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuz3rbg2nYXukGkiSR1tuc9hKWjiShgZ4US2tg5CNazHaRbVCX_GOUNFQyjO12kwI3WtK7UAegtLQ50ADGVjgOVR8A0R0ySr_wCnVgLcOPp7NwLEhyW8edQ800KeehQTc8ugWuZ_VqcnRK/s320/4a05185e718b8d88558960286ed72e4d.jpg" width="154" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Villa Carlotta Museum.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GDGy3D-pcX-B79YPQzINHwNYe7ADeen3dndZySHVWtVdh_eZNRcsB8_iUOLLjYfHvqTKbBxlVu7YANg-bf3p26aBGGR_-Upyggm09WHtsY38s1ic4p33kYWzx3ZS7Q6BQqnKXGFgugiz/s1600/9ccd23cd0702c859cfe9108e3522272a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="423" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GDGy3D-pcX-B79YPQzINHwNYe7ADeen3dndZySHVWtVdh_eZNRcsB8_iUOLLjYfHvqTKbBxlVu7YANg-bf3p26aBGGR_-Upyggm09WHtsY38s1ic4p33kYWzx3ZS7Q6BQqnKXGFgugiz/s320/9ccd23cd0702c859cfe9108e3522272a.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sold on Antique dress. Evening look.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmoPCSomC0Evun2E5d3B28Lf3LWZZxMYhJN4JeRKwTKZb3XxzgepJO0iUz60UAweKw_G-Rioe7bHnRcS2m2MMUu_VAc4-FIg36sWWmi2H-g2ZUA2ekIXdbkij7SDXSpz-kjCe2Nu1-iLP/s1600/6773caff030eefb916db5a8770e3912a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="576" data-original-width="440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmoPCSomC0Evun2E5d3B28Lf3LWZZxMYhJN4JeRKwTKZb3XxzgepJO0iUz60UAweKw_G-Rioe7bHnRcS2m2MMUu_VAc4-FIg36sWWmi2H-g2ZUA2ekIXdbkij7SDXSpz-kjCe2Nu1-iLP/s320/6773caff030eefb916db5a8770e3912a.jpg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same dress with pelerine added and lower sleeves removed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Completely by accident, I came along the following gown while looking for something unrelated.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1LAaN3GHN8jYHBTSjoX12XILq8ZYLG1JI3GSpG7QZdi-0dbZRMIvmKV881-Vnialai_pc1urNDoQx_2MYn6UshZmGAR81YusqzAY9s9jdkTgmktsgiKnKblgD8birrHuZ2dDJLK4DqTS/s1200/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="828" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1LAaN3GHN8jYHBTSjoX12XILq8ZYLG1JI3GSpG7QZdi-0dbZRMIvmKV881-Vnialai_pc1urNDoQx_2MYn6UshZmGAR81YusqzAY9s9jdkTgmktsgiKnKblgD8birrHuZ2dDJLK4DqTS/w226-h328/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80013634?rpp=20&pg=26&ao=on&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Dresses&img=2">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1856-1857</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
I liked the fringe, the basque, and the pelerine. The design was decided. It was then time to search for fringe-and a lot of it.<br />
<br />
That was a bit more difficult than I thought at first. Modern fringes do not mimic period trims well and finding old stock with enough yardage can be tough. Generally I would fringe some of the fabric itself but with the little embroidered dots, I felt that fringing the fabric would be difficult.<br />
<br />
I finally found a fringe that workable-with lots of yardage. It probably isn't antique, but it is old stock. In fact, the design on top of the fringe is remarkably similar to the original above.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhioLmpfEtFqlhMsk55cYit4dpWBw0X5Pz12gcsegtBRu95-x-LvW-rWHJ45gRPZvsGCuWBftiDyRJc51YkhEAqDZCGaAOi7O9B7s7fVoy-2mW9LScEB6dWTyQuo667XT4T3yQQSOGcuZTy/s1600/IMG_7089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1600" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhioLmpfEtFqlhMsk55cYit4dpWBw0X5Pz12gcsegtBRu95-x-LvW-rWHJ45gRPZvsGCuWBftiDyRJc51YkhEAqDZCGaAOi7O9B7s7fVoy-2mW9LScEB6dWTyQuo667XT4T3yQQSOGcuZTy/s320/IMG_7089.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The only thing I didn't quite care for was the super thick fringe-usually fringe was fine. But with little searching, I did find a few examples of thicker fringe so I felt like my fringe would work.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbtALLMYphp6HE9wGWIbPemzn6SlMihskG8M6TwGJbwUAm2mbQjCRROSrzmwG38EIGGI9om9LFmjf9mt-us0ZTL89sZUJKOQBhRxBQFbCECnVjqv0W8WGrKtu2sR38B_l8Y5qiFcEw3Hf-/s1200/main-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1102" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbtALLMYphp6HE9wGWIbPemzn6SlMihskG8M6TwGJbwUAm2mbQjCRROSrzmwG38EIGGI9om9LFmjf9mt-us0ZTL89sZUJKOQBhRxBQFbCECnVjqv0W8WGrKtu2sR38B_l8Y5qiFcEw3Hf-/w294-h320/main-image.jpg" title="Met Museum, 1845" width="294" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/103135?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ft=dress&amp;offset=880&amp;rpp=80&amp;pos=882">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1845</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Out of curiosity, I did a burn test on the fringe. It's most likely a silk/rayon blend. It definitely smelled of burning hair which says silk but it burned more like rayon than silk itself. It didn't melt. With those results, I felt comfortable using the fringe on a period reconstruction.<br />
<br />
Although it looks a little odd on the bodice to our eyes, the fringe is the exact shade of blue used in the shot silk. I've seen several originals (particularly in the 1840s and early 1850s) that used the weft color (or what seems to be the weft color) as a trim or accessory color. Here are a few examples:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhvyaJF2YJ_umIIMYyYo3Glv8kTbtMYMn3oZW2p4ub89HGyd1D3MVF59tO3uprBKggysDuj9wsV6j0QlyntzBXpla81-MWZi6xgj89NAVBId7L11nRlPCvYsh06xLtDE9-cmfKz_7xI9G/s1600/52affd6afc3cb5aacb6d0bd4e5a6b160.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="705" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHhvyaJF2YJ_umIIMYyYo3Glv8kTbtMYMn3oZW2p4ub89HGyd1D3MVF59tO3uprBKggysDuj9wsV6j0QlyntzBXpla81-MWZi6xgj89NAVBId7L11nRlPCvYsh06xLtDE9-cmfKz_7xI9G/s320/52affd6afc3cb5aacb6d0bd4e5a6b160.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meg Andrews Auction Site</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTrH7i_LUsFudcBlg6DgNghXiA4W-tycoDmYkF2eyp0Piv0NZoKVyvJvhBzX-5tgxwSTYymjrc32Xj-FcNpqAXRkJKDrHyn5t8bi2mS-HvcFWhbE9mQXk3DUgGOmMoM-BToIdO2kxYtae/s1600/88d1241afd9ec079850736cb6de4414b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="699" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYTrH7i_LUsFudcBlg6DgNghXiA4W-tycoDmYkF2eyp0Piv0NZoKVyvJvhBzX-5tgxwSTYymjrc32Xj-FcNpqAXRkJKDrHyn5t8bi2mS-HvcFWhbE9mQXk3DUgGOmMoM-BToIdO2kxYtae/s320/88d1241afd9ec079850736cb6de4414b.jpg" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown painting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1KOKsY6zSA2IFi2NmCfWgUIUTYR0PlcG0716whjmG2VLiGw828CORZ8qK4M7kcn4NFY-rU5F9ec97LWnw-Px5hMaKF0dr4FS5fUSCLuUf8jp-PKKppPDnCZ9wDEZWnnBGm2GfI84DnqNP/s1600/cccbd73bf1e6b43b6962ac0eb3199ab9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="342" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1KOKsY6zSA2IFi2NmCfWgUIUTYR0PlcG0716whjmG2VLiGw828CORZ8qK4M7kcn4NFY-rU5F9ec97LWnw-Px5hMaKF0dr4FS5fUSCLuUf8jp-PKKppPDnCZ9wDEZWnnBGm2GfI84DnqNP/s320/cccbd73bf1e6b43b6962ac0eb3199ab9.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whitaker Auction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoTCdslkI_zZOA2w_Hu8JN_GyJgIA0YCT3dMZpm9RGVfBPgal426g4Ud8yke9n9or9IbL3tE699_J22aBqRG1phzF5Vq-_7Uasc6MPfILFZGSvEGMerY0uu6ntT6Bz9RF-AEH5uYpdQif/s1600/5fdef1ddb39f1575686dbdc9ec155422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoTCdslkI_zZOA2w_Hu8JN_GyJgIA0YCT3dMZpm9RGVfBPgal426g4Ud8yke9n9or9IbL3tE699_J22aBqRG1phzF5Vq-_7Uasc6MPfILFZGSvEGMerY0uu6ntT6Bz9RF-AEH5uYpdQif/s320/5fdef1ddb39f1575686dbdc9ec155422.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown collection. Brown/red shot with green<br />and trimmed with green velvet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
With trim picked out and on its way from France, it was time to cut all the pieces. I did go with a low body and used an original 1850s Godey's pattern for the upper sleeves. I then cut a pelerine (I tried doing a zig zag one like the original but my brain wasn't wanting to recreate those angles so I went with a plain one instead) and some lower sleeves. I also cut a set of bretelles, or braces, for the evening bodice to spice it up a bit. Then I got to sewing.<br />
<br />
When the fringe came, I set all the trim on by hand. I added a little black velvet ribbon to the bretelles to set them off where I didn't want fringe. Then it was time to decide what to do with the waistline of the bretelles. Original fashion plates show a variety of treatment-from being left plain to what look like little rosettes.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjs6c8cGUAUxE3oivZRovC-NT7N35FnkjBbFdXfdapW8oz5Ge7UymIfe8KYRfqZyyaiPjN3-9fyRu32oeFlLDMrHOLg5hsvtl5kymKw7eWkMftVA-MwDyxQeiTdmzYpzA7TG2Z1qWjW6p/s1600/b262c9876689433498ea629441ad4100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="737" data-original-width="563" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjs6c8cGUAUxE3oivZRovC-NT7N35FnkjBbFdXfdapW8oz5Ge7UymIfe8KYRfqZyyaiPjN3-9fyRu32oeFlLDMrHOLg5hsvtl5kymKw7eWkMftVA-MwDyxQeiTdmzYpzA7TG2Z1qWjW6p/s320/b262c9876689433498ea629441ad4100.jpg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown magazine, probably 1863-1865</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUx6L65LOdBLv3rVquCIp2k-0AcOm9TLVP-8Gv31FqDLduHFTz7SKXSigliWPiw0XArAG0lV7spS3xWZBiKdqLvWwly5PLFYRaILFpxfJ6cqTWFUkMzJgjcjlYXp7Jk9jFyiDlPYw9qgDJ/s1600/a1f3c1a79cfc09c35a10fd3d8587cfbe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUx6L65LOdBLv3rVquCIp2k-0AcOm9TLVP-8Gv31FqDLduHFTz7SKXSigliWPiw0XArAG0lV7spS3xWZBiKdqLvWwly5PLFYRaILFpxfJ6cqTWFUkMzJgjcjlYXp7Jk9jFyiDlPYw9qgDJ/s320/a1f3c1a79cfc09c35a10fd3d8587cfbe.jpg" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magasin des Demoiselles, 1856</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFslqdzr36qKlCvNZffCHbM2GCWW3jd2_G9-Vc7p2kZPyALA5p3e-QUTv1NARTQKsSJyncSfiQ6uN1tH_OF33UtSsU4ukNQTkl-ono6FfwpYLCZY7uXMgnLu4oTieza1jq9kwKqBB66_FG/s1600/2214dbf86dd15c2a63d4728342d02163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="391" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFslqdzr36qKlCvNZffCHbM2GCWW3jd2_G9-Vc7p2kZPyALA5p3e-QUTv1NARTQKsSJyncSfiQ6uN1tH_OF33UtSsU4ukNQTkl-ono6FfwpYLCZY7uXMgnLu4oTieza1jq9kwKqBB66_FG/s320/2214dbf86dd15c2a63d4728342d02163.jpg" width="250" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-dWulYqeqa-Ibs8zw9mELHUWEUu1-nUctvixqTLBNdBFlmhvDT6cKoLxd52rRn7b3dETu8xkVfn9u2DeVfEslNGYmJ-FaX90am9OW69wH0tipp77OQnumJpzjoaIvwRTyMLsZ8Q-Wpg13/s1600/07f4b9226c0b71e306b80a60d5cf614b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="564" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-dWulYqeqa-Ibs8zw9mELHUWEUu1-nUctvixqTLBNdBFlmhvDT6cKoLxd52rRn7b3dETu8xkVfn9u2DeVfEslNGYmJ-FaX90am9OW69wH0tipp77OQnumJpzjoaIvwRTyMLsZ8Q-Wpg13/s320/07f4b9226c0b71e306b80a60d5cf614b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Les Modes Parisiennes, 1854</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I made a simple pleated rosette for both the back and the front. The bretelles were stitched together with the rosettes and the whole thing simply slips over my head.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDBLy-Z2kXCnOh-h4Lhu_D2LGE2BpNq3rE1gPzHh3uWQWpE-PlsJ0lvaCYSl9gRPiuATK7O6NimqOLmf9AFfcq7oxMQUPOBUKbTmUR4j_As0hj3D44_EpY0NZVa64QuIHIYVbGmkiW5BdK/s1600/IMG_7097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDBLy-Z2kXCnOh-h4Lhu_D2LGE2BpNq3rE1gPzHh3uWQWpE-PlsJ0lvaCYSl9gRPiuATK7O6NimqOLmf9AFfcq7oxMQUPOBUKbTmUR4j_As0hj3D44_EpY0NZVa64QuIHIYVbGmkiW5BdK/s320/IMG_7097.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The only other thing to do was to add the accessories. I chose an already completed collar/undersleeves/handkerchief set made from vintage whitework.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrpPYerIBu98JYb7HCB7yNt66FUTEG4NWSsa5QaZNppNX2c4JpN972deh9CVojoZIB1CwnZMmRuiGFYjgTxM69xuDZWvSgLprw0VcKvcsj8aVtnQZF6VG5Jg0PPLjTcZlQzpEbPLJPzhc0/s1600/IMG_7088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrpPYerIBu98JYb7HCB7yNt66FUTEG4NWSsa5QaZNppNX2c4JpN972deh9CVojoZIB1CwnZMmRuiGFYjgTxM69xuDZWvSgLprw0VcKvcsj8aVtnQZF6VG5Jg0PPLjTcZlQzpEbPLJPzhc0/s320/IMG_7088.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then a tucker needed to be made. Since the upper sleeves for evening were so open, I also made some white silk taffeta puff undersleeves to wear. These, along with the tucker, will be tucked in the dress's pocket until put to use.<br />
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The whole ensemble turned out lovely!<br />
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Enjoy!</div>
Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-73149150982686186362020-08-30T19:54:00.000-07:002020-08-30T19:54:09.256-07:00Glove Cases and Shoe Bags<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">It's time for some of the more obscure projects in "The Workwoman's Guide". While often overlooked by living historians, these projects especially are quite useful even today.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">First up were the shoe bags. I first wondered about shoe coverings last time I was at Landmark Inn. I had stuffed my shoes in my carpetbag to transport them. As I was walking quite a bit outside, the shoes managed to get quite dusty and dirty throughout the weekend. Putting them back in my carpetbag with all my other things at the end of the event made me really think about getting something to cover them with next time. Low and behold, "The Workwoman's Guide" has a project for that!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The book actually contains two different shoe bag directions. I went with the second option entitled "Another Shoe Bag". I liked the design much more than the first one. It seemed simpler to whip together.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">No dimensions were given (probably because it would vary by shoe size) so I had to guess at the measurements. Made from polished cotton and edged with silk ribbon. They close with a simple button and buttonhole closure. I did end up making them a bit bigger than they needed to be, but they work.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The next project was a simple glove case. I have a very hard time keeping both gloves in a pair together. I can always manage to find exactly one glove for each pair-no actual pairs. I thought that keeping all my gloves in a case would help that situation.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I won an auction on Ebay of twelve pairs of vintage gloves all belonging to a single woman (who happened to share my glove size!). While not all of them were appropriate for early Victorian, I did manage to get about eight pairs of usable gloves from the set plus a few very long pairs of kid gloves for 20th century if I ever go back into doing that.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Gloves in the 1830s seem to be wrist length, just like for the 1850s and 1860s. Some of the originals in museum collections are embroidered. Others were plain. I did find some references to gloves in several 1830s etiquette books so I have included them here.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;">"<a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/Etiquette_for_the_ladies_eighty_maxims_o/hRBhAAAAcAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0">Etiquette for the ladies: eighty maxims on dress, manners, and accomplishments</a>" (1837)</span> states that "Gloves ought always to harmonize with the rest of the dress. When colored gloves are worn, the most delicate tints should be chosen. Nothing is so vulgar as an incongruous glaring-colored glove."</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">"<span style="background-color: white;"><a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Ladies_Pocket_Book_of_Etiquette_Seve/vSxcAAAAcAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0">The Ladies' Pocket-Book of Etiquette</a></span>" (1840) states "If you meet a gentleman in the street who is upon such a degree of intimacy with you as to warrant the offer of his hand, you will retain your glove, although he most likely will take off his. The same observation applies to any other situation in which a gentleman offers you his hand when you have gloves on." The same book says "Ladies do not wear their gloves during dinner" in a later section.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I made my glove case up with three pockets-one for white gloves (on the very bottom so they have the least opportunity to get soiled), then black gloves, then colored gloves. The case closes with a china button and hand worked buttonhole, just like the shoe bags.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Simple, quick projects are fun! And these are quite useful!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Enjoy!</span>Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-19446224987439552122020-08-24T04:21:00.000-07:002020-08-24T04:21:59.867-07:00A Pointed Velvet BeltSo after finishing the pink silk dress, I decided to go ahead and make the belt that we see in the original paining that served as inspiration for the day dress.<br />
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From the painting, we can clearly see this is a pointed belt. But I don't think it's a diamond shaped one-the top point (the only one visible to us) is off to the side of her center front. Assuming her belt isn't lopsided, that leads me to believe that the top of the belt is double pointed. Often these double pointed belts come with a single point at the bottom of the belt. That led me to the design I eventually chose. But first, let's look at some original pointed belts (and some corselettes/Swiss waists).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmkxTzq78dduw4D26J5QYCUNDpouEyXvlt10P9rIvA7n86NpZnA9MdKjkHkUWr40DBASgOR7ryacFwHnhMOU6uWqyDxGV1bSIOqvFo_FeIutrf2r53QusUUDTKGw6U6WZ9PzDz4Tsx19_e/s1600/54f9368a20b73d40d864feeead520877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="684" data-original-width="497" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmkxTzq78dduw4D26J5QYCUNDpouEyXvlt10P9rIvA7n86NpZnA9MdKjkHkUWr40DBASgOR7ryacFwHnhMOU6uWqyDxGV1bSIOqvFo_FeIutrf2r53QusUUDTKGw6U6WZ9PzDz4Tsx19_e/s320/54f9368a20b73d40d864feeead520877.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peterson's Magazine, 1860</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeAoiBMMfuQKbUhhaeCyY4DfJou8uehGAuauoUtH7ezLu7Ikjd_vWlvQavRvibbrwVg_t6NE9rMr_4Os4ickZFta1JmNi9OMWyeGunacaq_Z-r-5V_UB3kFH6ig5x2ZC0PoCCOsLUONqER/s1600/dc51ce906ea7ac5742d3b0c78ede7499.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeAoiBMMfuQKbUhhaeCyY4DfJou8uehGAuauoUtH7ezLu7Ikjd_vWlvQavRvibbrwVg_t6NE9rMr_4Os4ickZFta1JmNi9OMWyeGunacaq_Z-r-5V_UB3kFH6ig5x2ZC0PoCCOsLUONqER/s320/dc51ce906ea7ac5742d3b0c78ede7499.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Der Bazar, 1861</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYZcWTt8dfHTizFebm_UiUOAS7xsCF5D9h1hZWqhD9-sDvhdsVhzg1hbuBDrJ-2z-VuHMBqPAxXfaJtvKKz6G-Fsw4VSpgaue3ZMl09ULVLslzjbwdyFlEifcQBIa7j05SnnGPA69Kmw7/s1600/main-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="257" data-original-width="728" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYZcWTt8dfHTizFebm_UiUOAS7xsCF5D9h1hZWqhD9-sDvhdsVhzg1hbuBDrJ-2z-VuHMBqPAxXfaJtvKKz6G-Fsw4VSpgaue3ZMl09ULVLslzjbwdyFlEifcQBIa7j05SnnGPA69Kmw7/s320/main-image.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107573?rpp=30&pg=1&ft=belt&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=3">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1860s (35.5" waist)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvXLssK-ZzZ8s13YoDSdzedo-f7__3UoF9qo8k_sC7_259PyoVai04dlFy4J-dyugyE61vcCzjxC3aUUow-1jrH9DJs4vN-RCL0AVa000rs7OKuqqDLfltcR24rkk6_jP4QMP4QkZC6Ck/s1600/14314b740e9d87c5e03e8d28eeab5ac1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="254" data-original-width="400" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQvXLssK-ZzZ8s13YoDSdzedo-f7__3UoF9qo8k_sC7_259PyoVai04dlFy4J-dyugyE61vcCzjxC3aUUow-1jrH9DJs4vN-RCL0AVa000rs7OKuqqDLfltcR24rkk6_jP4QMP4QkZC6Ck/s320/14314b740e9d87c5e03e8d28eeab5ac1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from Ebay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7ZybolXCR2R8RnSDX0eZcNUlu7tw-WMB-JbXTCbRLGPc0xcZlnS4Ct6w7Ene4wrJQt3boLAFuws5s_HOct9sqAZI7vH9V8T5XnMQJd4ZYRLrWNp8cmK9vzNxatXA7-2bciSEEevPNStY/s1600/56234076f096b57cb648af12249dbabb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="394" data-original-width="564" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7ZybolXCR2R8RnSDX0eZcNUlu7tw-WMB-JbXTCbRLGPc0xcZlnS4Ct6w7Ene4wrJQt3boLAFuws5s_HOct9sqAZI7vH9V8T5XnMQJd4ZYRLrWNp8cmK9vzNxatXA7-2bciSEEevPNStY/s320/56234076f096b57cb648af12249dbabb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from Ebay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEU47SiL-KoWIkFe4rtimSj7yWgPblO_ICzlZ-AEMykcOJ4N0kc1Py_6dncwM73cQQHTc1Ct153eC6dxM8p3jf0upEjpEYR4uw2yE5HJRyriVY-eMOkuTVAbRAyCgjFYHxs9TcZIoWJQxO/s1600/36a74d8e198a7ae421336d39609fdaca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEU47SiL-KoWIkFe4rtimSj7yWgPblO_ICzlZ-AEMykcOJ4N0kc1Py_6dncwM73cQQHTc1Ct153eC6dxM8p3jf0upEjpEYR4uw2yE5HJRyriVY-eMOkuTVAbRAyCgjFYHxs9TcZIoWJQxO/s320/36a74d8e198a7ae421336d39609fdaca.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fenimore Art Museum</td></tr>
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The design I eventually chose was a double pointed top and single pointed bottom front, with a double pointed bottom back. It closes up the left side.<br />
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The belt is stiffened with buckram and boned in all five points. The belt was then lined with brown polished cotton which was whipped onto the edge of the buckram. All that was left was to attach the black velvet (really, 100% cotton velveteen, which is more similar to original velvet in my experience) to the front and stitch it all together. And add hooks and eyes, of course.<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-72415188851955536622020-08-17T18:23:00.000-07:002020-08-17T18:23:55.238-07:00Fixing It - The Pink Silk DressNext 'to do' in fixing all the wonderful incomplete garments in the closet is a pink silk dress. I apparently never wrote up a blog post for it at all, which may be because I just made the skirt and a very plain evening bodice. I wore the skirt with a white waist and silk jacket to Welbourne in 2018 but that was the only time the dress has come out.<br />
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I really had no inspiration for the dress-pink is NOT my favorite color, however, when you find a solid silk taffeta at $8/yard, you snap it up regardless of color. You typically find plaids and the occasional stripe for such a price-almost never a solid.<br />
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Taking out the dress, I was quick to figure out that very little needed done to the skirt-it had an appropriate waist treatment for my target year (1862-1864), a self-fabric waistband, watch pocket and skirt ties. The only thing I did with the skirt is to replace the self-fabric pocket with one of polished cotton, as is most typical of the period.<br />
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Next, I took out the excess fabric from the stash and started on a day bodice. I found this lovely painting that spoke to me in regards to trim:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDio2W6l3U_IQJ35AHObNn6YpceMjI-LeBwz5cuvHf-PO-y2cOflt2Zh4cyLVpIESzygHqi4FD66Pqirsd0VHNoEi-KG9znA3C7fQ3d-4HnepK_27Apo8bSZknfMI1o6CVrY4fe2tT7nmx/s1600/b3c7ecaddf16e2e01ac421e0ba87dc48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="360" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDio2W6l3U_IQJ35AHObNn6YpceMjI-LeBwz5cuvHf-PO-y2cOflt2Zh4cyLVpIESzygHqi4FD66Pqirsd0VHNoEi-KG9znA3C7fQ3d-4HnepK_27Apo8bSZknfMI1o6CVrY4fe2tT7nmx/s320/b3c7ecaddf16e2e01ac421e0ba87dc48.jpg" width="245" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #111111; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: xx-small;">Le rendez-vous galant, 1865 by Auguste Toulmouche.<br />I don't know what that young man is telling her, but I do know<br />that she is not buying any of it!</span></span></td></tr>
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I had never seen a pink silk gown that I liked before finding this painting. The painting itself has become one of my favorites just because of her facial expression! Now this painting is a little later than I was going for, so a few changes needed to be made. First, the little stand up collar with trim around the neckline had to go. In its place, I placed a flat collar embroidered with black silk. I got the idea from Godey's Lady's Book, which occasionally talks about embroidering collars and cuffs in colors (particularly in blue or red-both color fast cotton dyes in the period) but this particular article discussed embroidering the collar and cuffs in black silk (silk was apparently more color fast than cotton). I had plenty of silk buttonhole twist so I went to town and did a chicken foot stitch (which I like to call the coral stitch) around the edge of the collar and cuffs.<br />
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Other than that, I kept true to the design. The skirt was already pleated in knife pleats, which look like the painting. I made up a high bodice with narrow coat sleeves, although I did add undersleeves to mine and put the cuffs on the undersleeves. I can't quite tell if the painting put cuffs directly on the sleeve or if she has undersleeves as well. I also broke out some gorgeous black buttons from the Button Baron. They have this lovely gold flower design in the center and I think they look great with the pink on the gown!<br />
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The top of the bodice is meant to close with a brooch, so no button there-this is the same treatment we see on my 1860s original black silk bodice. I opted to not put a button on the bottom so that a belt will sit better. The last two buttons were used to close the cuffs.<br />
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As of right now, I am wearing my normal black velvet belt with a wheat belt buckle done by Beth Miller Hall on Etsy. I do plan eventually to make a pointed belt similar to the painting-you do see those types of belts earlier. That's a project for another day!<br />
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And with that, the day bodice was done. It was time to move onto the evening bodice. The bodice itself was basically done-but as I intended this to be a ball gown, I did take out the neckline piping and lower the front neckline about an inch or so to make it more appropriate for a period ball room. But nothing else really needed to be done to the bodice itself. It was time to move onto decorating.<br />
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I had a former set of undersleeves and bertha that no longer fit but had this gorgeous original Maltese lace embellishing it. I picked the old bertha apart to make a new one and used the lace on the undersleeves to finish out the gown's double puff sleeves.<br />
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The bertha was modeled after several originals-it's a style that shows up frequently.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is actually the same gown as directly above.</td></tr>
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The original bertha that I made was modeled after this original, sans the lapel type things at the end.<br />
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My bertha has a base of white silk taffeta, over which is laid a shirring of white silk organza. Little strips of pink silk were put over the seams that shirred the organza and my original lace was put on top of that. The bottom of the bertha was finished with more lace and it has hooks and eyes that close it over the left shoulder.<br />
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The only other thing the ball bodice needed at that point was a tucker. Tuckers are little bits of netting and lace that function much like a collar-they protect the edge of the dress and are meant to be disposable. It also helps snug up the top of the neckline to prevent any gaps. For my tucker, I chose some cotton netting with some lace beading and a tiny scant 1/4" lace edging. I found some pink silk ribbon in my stash to lace it up with.<br />
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And that was that. Another dress done. Technically this is my only true ball gown that I own, which I suppose is helpful even though I don't often attend balls. At least now I have one. The day dress will certainly get some use when we start having events again.<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-90557641943523239722020-08-03T12:18:00.000-07:002020-08-03T12:18:21.184-07:00Fixing It - 1865 EditionI'll be the first to admit that I'm often a procrastinator in getting my sewing done for events. It is not at all uncommon to find me stitching instead of sleeping for the week before an event. As such, occasionally, things get slapped together or basted together rather hastily and therefore do not last. In an attempt to get my wardrobe ready for when events start back, I went through everything and put notes on every item that needed assistance.<br />
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This week, I worked on my late war wardrobe as there wasn't a lot to do and I felt I could get it all done in one fell swoop. I had a petticoat that I wanted to fanc-i-fy, a bodice to bone, and a dress to refit and fix. Not all that difficult.<br />
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First, the petticoat. I made a plain over-the-hoop petticoat for the red dress several years ago. Somehow, I managed to misplace it at one point and made a second plain petticoat. After finding the first petticoat (I had left it at Liendo), and not needing two plain petticoats, I resolved to add some whitework to make one of them a little nicer.<br />
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The process was fairly simple. I just took out the hem, and added the whitework and cover the raw edges.<br />
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As most petticoats were gathered with stoke gathers instead of pleating, I took out the waistband (while I was fixing things anyway) and re did that as well.<br />
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Then it was onto the dresses. I currently have two 1865 dresses-both silk. The green dress was nearly prefect, but needed a bit of boning in the bodice. Easy fix!<br />
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The red dress needed a bit more work. It was the first dress I ever hand stitched and I really did not know what I was doing when I stitched it! I used a fairly large running stitch instead of tiny backstitches and I had seams ripping out. Running through all the seams with a machine easily fixed that.<br />
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I also refit the bodice as it was a bit small. It mostly included extending out the front a bit and repositioning and boning the darts.<br />
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Then it was on to the evening bodice, which just needed some reinforcement of the seams and boning in the darts<br />
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And lastly, the skirt, which had some problems. I used a polyester ribbon for the waistband, so I took that out and made one out of polished cotton. I also added a watch pocket while I was at it.<br />
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The skirt pocket was in rough shape as well so it was recut out of polished cotton and added in place of the self-fabric one.<br />
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I also found that I needed to add skirt lifters in twill tape to replace the polyester ribbon ones.<br />
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The red dress also needed new collar, undersleeves, and handkerchief. I found a pattern for an embroidered butterfly for those exact accessories in Godey's Lady's Book, 1865. There were lots of butterflies to choose from-it seems to be a popular motif!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk-Zss1kOBAVwTGx4XmvmGe4mM0kejOcuRYfMwDqlGLk4dXMV8Nm5GZyQLgrkamoogHTeyQo4iJZrbcb_Esqs4o4U3jvqkiA8jM-fNrSkyKbHQMEZ7mY-gxKxTwPniadIZ2zMFwTn0Bw4q/s1600/IMG_6904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk-Zss1kOBAVwTGx4XmvmGe4mM0kejOcuRYfMwDqlGLk4dXMV8Nm5GZyQLgrkamoogHTeyQo4iJZrbcb_Esqs4o4U3jvqkiA8jM-fNrSkyKbHQMEZ7mY-gxKxTwPniadIZ2zMFwTn0Bw4q/s320/IMG_6904.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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And that was the end of my 1865 sewing adventures for the week. Yay for a fully functioning late to post war wardrobe!<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-33934076977892233102020-07-27T13:01:00.000-07:002020-07-27T13:01:48.940-07:00An 1840s SunbonnetAh, the 1840s. The only decade where I portray the regular common class folk. Although I do have plans for an 1840s buckram bonnet for nicer wear, a sunbonnet is a practical and cheap choice for every day wear.<br />
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Now I am NOT a fan of slat bonnets-not having vision on the sides of my head rather freaks me out. So I was going for a softer, corded bonnet. This one from the MET caught my eye.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykd74Q0u7RujmzVS5V9-N-_w0i8FPlgW5zY0q6n0Im352ur5p-GTj5DvUsrURK7OG_ZzUoE17l_UABCyq2cySRfreSmktTJhNwvC0CRXHpBwDMtxcPCC6x3FjePT9Slt8injeeOI2bDKp/s1600/61.141.41_CP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1202" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykd74Q0u7RujmzVS5V9-N-_w0i8FPlgW5zY0q6n0Im352ur5p-GTj5DvUsrURK7OG_ZzUoE17l_UABCyq2cySRfreSmktTJhNwvC0CRXHpBwDMtxcPCC6x3FjePT9Slt8injeeOI2bDKp/s320/61.141.41_CP2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1840. Notice how the brim is cut on the bias and it is self-lined. If you blow the image up, you can see there is piping where the crown meets the brim.</td></tr>
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I decided that with very few changes, I was going to make that one up. I chose a brown cotton (although not a plaid) for my bonnet as well because I liked how neutral it looked.<br />
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Sunbonnets are easy things to make you own-there are so many examples out there from plain to fancy. Let's take a look at some of the other options you can add!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwonXWOaLvV797tYCnvNBCdF_6a_nEa-1CQUYvLqIaptRHbNGHMJVlSg-eBRCCecb0UO9HjtVsdGG0uqsOHDRl4u85XHTpLkMZPJzvWun_LYhudQ8m6SyfPS6rzP-QXF3b_HT7taveCsB/s1600/4033_img_orig_1478729360_8936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="513" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwonXWOaLvV797tYCnvNBCdF_6a_nEa-1CQUYvLqIaptRHbNGHMJVlSg-eBRCCecb0UO9HjtVsdGG0uqsOHDRl4u85XHTpLkMZPJzvWun_LYhudQ8m6SyfPS6rzP-QXF3b_HT7taveCsB/s320/4033_img_orig_1478729360_8936.jpg" width="273" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nantucket Country Antiques. Notice the ruffles on the brim, curtain, and crown. This is a slat bonnet, not a corded bonnet. Also notice how it is all cut on the straight grain (even the ruffles).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYt_hv-g0dHrsrc2-ODoLfPoXYPJc8yqZZEUEvzYCgog35UN7_iPgCmJYGGRUAgN6-6qYCgcKQXy9iMYQ2LnojHAvwqHmjbvmQcq6kE1xFE_mA93vbE9Q61ynSg9KIMQy56NN5pwfLPRZS/s1600/4040_img_orig_1478729666_3731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="506" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYt_hv-g0dHrsrc2-ODoLfPoXYPJc8yqZZEUEvzYCgog35UN7_iPgCmJYGGRUAgN6-6qYCgcKQXy9iMYQ2LnojHAvwqHmjbvmQcq6kE1xFE_mA93vbE9Q61ynSg9KIMQy56NN5pwfLPRZS/s320/4040_img_orig_1478729666_3731.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nantucket Country Antiques. Ruffles on brim and bottom of curtain. Notice the extra bow in back.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhsZf0DkCdvMnIbgi5JJvHnRgsPi7DgsvCS9ZZgbKeG5wPt0as1gxQfgTOYHGWPeCDCZhEd-3VBlxfQVBLY_retPiV2Zx-GNlvvLfMUUmFKc_3BikMKU37dA2xi6xEv9Mu5Sq7xItvVPJ/s1600/main-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="869" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhsZf0DkCdvMnIbgi5JJvHnRgsPi7DgsvCS9ZZgbKeG5wPt0as1gxQfgTOYHGWPeCDCZhEd-3VBlxfQVBLY_retPiV2Zx-GNlvvLfMUUmFKc_3BikMKU37dA2xi6xEv9Mu5Sq7xItvVPJ/s320/main-image.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1845. Notice both the vertical and horizontal cording lines.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtGN8DI3bF1NrG20OJe47xLOGl7vkxFR-Nh7hVzJVOzDUbHeAqo-5Jivu6p3uCRo0Rn34aXA_4nn2sZ8CnEZTBvN12iePnqslSbmk7Q0rbAQ6HNN9PuBZy5C6fUxCYnpfPxjhCCMzXrKX/s1600/4febd84904b723180a19a0c728f76c6f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="338" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtGN8DI3bF1NrG20OJe47xLOGl7vkxFR-Nh7hVzJVOzDUbHeAqo-5Jivu6p3uCRo0Rn34aXA_4nn2sZ8CnEZTBvN12iePnqslSbmk7Q0rbAQ6HNN9PuBZy5C6fUxCYnpfPxjhCCMzXrKX/s320/4febd84904b723180a19a0c728f76c6f.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whitaker Auction, Tasha Tudor collection. This bonnet appears to be cut entirely on the bias-brim, crown, curtain, and all. It also looks like there is cording on the crown.</td></tr>
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I'm going to stop there but there are so many more variations-long and short curtains (although I think that has something to do with time period and things going in and out of fashion and such). Brim shape and poofiness, cording amounts and placement, etc. Most sunbonnets it seems are made from cotton but I've also seen some silk ones (although the silk ones I have seen have all been solid dark colors (black, very dark blue, etc.).<br />
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If you can get a basic sunbonnet (or cap) pattern, it can be quite simple to modify what you have to an original you are copying. For 1850s and 1860s, Godey's 1857 sunbonnet can be a good choice. Fair warning-the image does not match up to the pattern!<br />
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But you can see the shapes and how one may be able to modify them to what you need. The above pattern has rounded curtain corners but all the 1840s bonnets (okay, all four of them) have had straight corners, so if I were to use this pattern that is a definite change I would make right away.<br />
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If you aren't up to fully drafting your own based off images, Elizabeth Stewart Clark has two lovely sunbonnet patterns on her website, <a href="http://www.thesewingacademy.com/">The Sewing Academy</a>. The simple sunbonnet pattern could be made up in an afternoon but the other is slightly more time and skill intensive.<br />
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But I'm up to drafting my own. Partially. As I don't have the actual bonnet in hand to take measurements, we're going to use some other information to cheat a bit. Now the Workwoman's Guide doesn't have a lot on bonnets (as the author states-the styles change so quickly based on the ever-changing whims of fashion that it would be impossible to include them all in the book) but she has quite a few caps that have made up to fit me quite well, so as I already have the pattern made up, let's use that to make our sunbonnet pattern. I think the easiest pattern to modify to a sunbonnet shape would be the dress morning cap on page 126 using figures 9, 10, and 11.<br />
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If you want fuller crown, figure 17 might be a good fit but I can't recommend the brim bit for that cap as it is shirred and cording it would prove to be most difficult (and historically inaccurate).<br />
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The first step into making this appropriate for a sunbonnet, was to widen the brim and also make the cheek tabs straight across instead of downward sloping. Then I widened the top of the crown to make it more poofy for lack of a better term. Then I had to make a large rectangular pattern piece for the curtain.<br />
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Per the original, the curtain and crown were cut on the straight, but the brim and brim facing on the bias. Then I stitched the brim and brim facing together and added cording channels. Along the edge of the brim there are 11 channels and in the center, 3. Then I added the cording. I used Sugar'nCream 100% cotton yarn in white.<br />
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It was then that I noticed that the original had piping along where the brim and crown meet so I cut a strip of piping, corded that as well, and attached it to the edge of the brim, leaving the brim facing free.<br />
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Knowing that I would need back ties to fit the bonnet to my head, I went ahead and cut those as well as the larger front ties. The back ties were cut 1.5" by 15" and the front ones 3.5" by ??". A narrow hem was done all around both sets of ties.<br />
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After running gathering stitches along the edge of the crown, I fit the piece to the brim and stitched the two together securely using a back stitch, adding the back ties 1/2" (a seam allowance's width) away from the bottom edge. For all interior seams in the sunbonnet, a back stitch was used however, per the original, the cording channels were stitched with a running stitch. The brim facing was then brought to hide all the raw edges inside and stitched securely down.<br />
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Then it was time to attach the curtain. I first hemmed the curtain all around except for the top. I used a 3/8" hem over twice for the sides then a 1/4" turn over then a 1" turn over for the hem. Next, a gathering stitch was run along the top and the curtain attached to the brim and crown. After those pieces were securely stitched together, I did a run and fell seam to hide the raw edges as it appeared the original did. Next the front ties were laid on and stitched down securely. The last step was to starch the brim so it stood out from the face and the bonnet was done!<br />
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And now the pattern. I have included it here with some minor changes from mine to improve upon my 'mock up'. I only uploaded pictures of the crown and brim but the rest of it is below.<br />
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Cut:<br />
2 brim pieces (put in Word with 0x0 margins, it should print the right size)<br />
1 crown piece (put in Word with 0x0 margins, it should print the right size)<br />
1 40" x 11" rectangle<br />
2 3.5" x 30" rectangles for ties<br />
2 1.5" x 15" rectangles for back ties<br />
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And because I've already gone over the steps to put it together, I'm going to leave you with an appropriate period explanation of directions to make up the bonnet-<br />
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<i>Any seamstress of reasonable skill will be able to make up the bonnet from the picture.</i><br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6890832560395539616.post-73706555034912419142020-07-19T22:28:00.000-07:002020-07-19T22:28:04.802-07:00A New 1840s Dress and Accessorizing the 1840sI've actually quite enjoyed getting into the 1840s. I have grown to like the plain, understated look-even though I hated it when I first got into living history. Since December, I've only had one 1840s dress and even though I only have attended single day 1840s events, I knew I wanted a 'back-up' dress just in case.<br />
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I purchased this fabric from <a href="https://www.thousandsofbolts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=35">Thousands of Bolts</a>. This website is awesome for cotton prints. They have great reproduction fabric at 1/2 the cost of other sites. Of course, not every fabric is good for just any time period, but I've had reasonable success finding fabric for what I need here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQH2tIXK5E2yyScuc-PKJwyuqQiXJPFzM-MH67ETFc0nBfl0WatFag1VPMAfZ7TKEOfW2urAkcLGLiSGgy2_OVfBIz98H0bxLo6_Q6VByy7LPbI10i3vkgaVjg-ro_Z2EdXzXbuXyMPqe/s1600/IMG_6835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQH2tIXK5E2yyScuc-PKJwyuqQiXJPFzM-MH67ETFc0nBfl0WatFag1VPMAfZ7TKEOfW2urAkcLGLiSGgy2_OVfBIz98H0bxLo6_Q6VByy7LPbI10i3vkgaVjg-ro_Z2EdXzXbuXyMPqe/s320/IMG_6835.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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It reminded me of a few 1840s chevron prints I had seen before.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Sl8N4KnCV2KNNuCu8xatTr1hctkPVvMUt6bNmpG91MhXL6ydWOz8ernlmjkaK4CC93eH7tvmBbD3Lxlp6amGg_UKObc5ShMKW4Aj3YHil74E0BEUWY-_jmAgb3w5mxS4hYdUSiHN1F2W/s1600/0d162b7042c624ff51ce388ea8027c95.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="564" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Sl8N4KnCV2KNNuCu8xatTr1hctkPVvMUt6bNmpG91MhXL6ydWOz8ernlmjkaK4CC93eH7tvmBbD3Lxlp6amGg_UKObc5ShMKW4Aj3YHil74E0BEUWY-_jmAgb3w5mxS4hYdUSiHN1F2W/s320/0d162b7042c624ff51ce388ea8027c95.jpg" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/work/51393/">National Gallery of Victoria</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJsZktfX5roSziGHuX4_z13WLhDUyNajePnyuoMq-3A0YmVCpbjewBXgCBSWO2NGyIM0sdOx4S7dKc7raEmYljSRTnQS9rWMjCUSLmp6-DKTTItCu294QWgMGO77I0YVPJID6S0pTP3cda/s1600/754fa35207544f2b835b91bf4a7fc770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="552" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJsZktfX5roSziGHuX4_z13WLhDUyNajePnyuoMq-3A0YmVCpbjewBXgCBSWO2NGyIM0sdOx4S7dKc7raEmYljSRTnQS9rWMjCUSLmp6-DKTTItCu294QWgMGO77I0YVPJID6S0pTP3cda/s320/754fa35207544f2b835b91bf4a7fc770.jpg" width="259" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown collection, accessed through <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/451978512608037621/">Pinterest</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgxS5sRiBPIxDkAmhp5A4fzhG58oR6NrMgghIFwZkLS62uCNRw4FpatAviuHzV8dU2ToFGims8QF0whc_lPKQMZfvUaw9PkRa9bvEExQJTFPhZ11fuCk5e41LtSITkdeVjkn66lU6mTaaw/s1600/816a61643787a4b7465794cf2d621582.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="564" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgxS5sRiBPIxDkAmhp5A4fzhG58oR6NrMgghIFwZkLS62uCNRw4FpatAviuHzV8dU2ToFGims8QF0whc_lPKQMZfvUaw9PkRa9bvEExQJTFPhZ11fuCk5e41LtSITkdeVjkn66lU6mTaaw/s320/816a61643787a4b7465794cf2d621582.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Private collection, accessed through <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/826217005/superb-1830s-print-day-dress-late?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=vintage&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=1830+dress&ref=sr_gallery-1-5&organic_search_click=1">Etsy</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I used my 1840s dress base, which I made off Truly Victorian's 1845 German day dress pattern. I didn't have to change a whole lot-just shorten the waist by a LOT (a common complaint of TV's patterns, I hear), take up a little under the bust, and take up a little at the shoulder seams. Other than that, the size I chose fit me pretty well.<br />
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Of course the gown is entirely hand stitched, since this is the early 1840s we're talking about. Most of the skirt is done with a running stitch but the bodice is done with a back stitch. I worked really hard on getting my stitches tiny. There are even some spots where I managed 18 stitches per inch, though mostly it was about 15 stitches per inch.<br />
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I lined the bodice and faced the skirt with brown cotton and piped the neckline, armscyes, waistline, and center front seam. The bodice closes up the back with hooks and eyes and I chose to pleat the skirt in 1/2" pleats instead of gauging.<br />
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After finishing the dress, I took a hard look at my 1840s wardrobe and decided I really needed to work on some linens. I had one chemisette, but no handkerchiefs or cuffs for either dress. So I started with the green dress.<br />
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Since I had a plain chemisette (no lace, ruffles, or frills) that I had been using for the green dress, I made a pair of plain cuffs to go with it. A simple 18" handkerchief done up with a narrow hem completed the set.<br />
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For the chevron dress, I knew I wanted something a little fancier. Looking through 1840s photographs had me set my heart on ruffles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWn04Lu-W6K_tjmfHoGTeMVeTr7svkz2S-OmiEaocuHWj2Ex4q5wvrl-eQHwGtJMsy1xzhz423NcEPn0HOVQszGgH2yVj8bBP61Fsj0W9n7wUpullmPDvc88TKlSpYEcYLZSynjV-rLW8d/s1600/c49b706999c65431156d8dd57b2ffe4f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="551" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWn04Lu-W6K_tjmfHoGTeMVeTr7svkz2S-OmiEaocuHWj2Ex4q5wvrl-eQHwGtJMsy1xzhz423NcEPn0HOVQszGgH2yVj8bBP61Fsj0W9n7wUpullmPDvc88TKlSpYEcYLZSynjV-rLW8d/s320/c49b706999c65431156d8dd57b2ffe4f.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accessed through <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ljmck/4510254337/">Flickr</a></td></tr>
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Although this portrait shows lace cuffs, I did find a photograph of a woman with ruffled cuffs (although her ruffles are probably lace and not plain).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCLJBGFjk1Gad2MvLz4mClaltpChzDkskW8-JDfmpW1gv97E2UIptqrM3k-MiliXZQcZ8LvBC2ewLelNm0K6oXpfxvSrfqNEAwTBeY2tp31TfwzcKThS8kNA-U9vwuUqiuGlQgb_LtC8E/s1600/ee7d78c527de91c8f6f98fec2ff014c9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="329" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCLJBGFjk1Gad2MvLz4mClaltpChzDkskW8-JDfmpW1gv97E2UIptqrM3k-MiliXZQcZ8LvBC2ewLelNm0K6oXpfxvSrfqNEAwTBeY2tp31TfwzcKThS8kNA-U9vwuUqiuGlQgb_LtC8E/s320/ee7d78c527de91c8f6f98fec2ff014c9.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uncredited</td></tr>
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I also wanted a ruffled handkerchief. I found one in the MET that is similar to my design, only it used netting for the ruffle and I kept with the lawn I used for the collar and cuffs and skipped the lace insertion.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL57vXWKtNDYR8W6HqKYTpUwIpKXM7tPDxvnicCpxldh8k8Z1lDAY5Ft_u2GExgjlrel5n2Cp34VQ67NIDQudiJ8MLOgBcIpsiV3fcXgjY0QWtOka4hEFoORhuvFHVnNLEkKOOkJyb9cD6/s1600/main-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1022" data-original-width="1200" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL57vXWKtNDYR8W6HqKYTpUwIpKXM7tPDxvnicCpxldh8k8Z1lDAY5Ft_u2GExgjlrel5n2Cp34VQ67NIDQudiJ8MLOgBcIpsiV3fcXgjY0QWtOka4hEFoORhuvFHVnNLEkKOOkJyb9cD6/s320/main-image.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/170282?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ft=handkerchief&amp;offset=120&amp;rpp=20&amp;pos=123">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1825-1850</td></tr>
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For my set, I used some cotton lawn I had in the stash. At first, I was unsure how to finish the ruffles but I found an 1830s double collar in the MET that clearly showed that the ruffle hem was narrow hemmed and where the ruffle met the base collar had been felled.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_VXVFjEoq0cginaAYRUt8nDs648sztExan5POUQV7azyErx5NSZ_WnhRprOvoUqv6mQPW9Me0G-1eCOAbb7FakIrCw8QL5iLLhzWZ4iruAxSbcxCUn4WGWwi0J4IocmV1Y4aGJ-MaTT5l/s1600/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1200" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_VXVFjEoq0cginaAYRUt8nDs648sztExan5POUQV7azyErx5NSZ_WnhRprOvoUqv6mQPW9Me0G-1eCOAbb7FakIrCw8QL5iLLhzWZ4iruAxSbcxCUn4WGWwi0J4IocmV1Y4aGJ-MaTT5l/s320/main-image+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/119323?searchField=All&amp;sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;ft=collar&amp;offset=220&amp;rpp=20&amp;pos=229">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>, 1830s</td></tr>
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I made the chemisette the same way I made the plain one, but added an 1" wide ruffle to the edge of the collar. This one also closes with buttons and ties at the sides.<br />
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The cuffs again were simple-just measured the wrist of the sleeve, cut a 2" strip and added a 1" ruffle to each.<br />
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And finally the handkerchief. I knew the finished size of the handkerchief should be somewhere in the 18"-20" range. In my mind, I saw the original handkerchief to be 2/3 handkerchief and 1/3 ruffle as a whole. Shooting for 18", I knew the handkerchief would need to be a finished (read:hemmed) 12" (I cut 12.5") and the ruffle 3" (I cut 3.5"). The ruffle is set on with not a lot of extra fabric so I chose a little over 1.25 times the amount of handkerchief, or roughly 17" for each side for a total ruffle length of 60".<br />
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I also decided to make two pairs of 'tidy cuffs' from The Workwoman's Guide. These are to be used in the kitchen or anywhere one is concerned with dirtying the sleeves of a gown. They are made from holland (polished cotton) and the WWG says they can be braided as well.<br />
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I made a pair of brown polished cotton tidy cuffs with no braiding and a pair of blue polished cotton cuffs with red braiding.<br />
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The cuffs lace up with silk ribbons through hand-bound eyelets (one of my first times actually doing eyelets-at least successfully). I think they turned out great!<br />
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I now feel like I have a functioning 1840s wardrobe. I have underpinnings, two dresses, linens, a few shawls, and a bonnet. It's basic, but very functional. I can't wait to get to wear them again!<br />
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Enjoy!Katelyn Heischhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17358722671520945743noreply@blogger.com0