Monday, May 18, 2020

A Study of an Original Bodice

I've finally done it.  I've started collecting original clothing.  I've stayed away from it so far because of budget constraints but I decided that if I can own 50 original parasols, I can forgo a few parasol purchases to get a few clothing items.  The first I have purchased is this lovely 1860s black silk bodice.



She's quite tiny-she doesn't even fit Edith!

Original bodice; reproduction skirt-post to come!!

Her waist is 23.5", bust 35.5".  Neckline is 14.25", shoulder seam is 7.75", and armscye is 12.5".

The bodice is completely hand sewn.  The back is a faux-three piece back, but the lining of the bodice is in two pieces and whipped together.


The bodice is lined in a brown cotton sateen but the sleeves are lined in a brown polished cotton in the same shade as the sateen.


The sleeves are coat with a little puff at the end.  The puff is lined in black cotton tarletan and trimmed with a 1/8" velvet ribbon on the puff and edged in a 3/8" ribbon that has been folded in half to encase the raw edge.




















The coat sleeve is trimmed with two rows of a 1" black velvet and is faced on the inside with the fashion fabric about 2" deep.


The neckline, armscyces, and waist are all piped.  There are two boned darts on either side of the center front.  The boning appears to be baleen.


The front closure is black dorset buttons and hand bound buttonholes, with ?? hooks and eyes from the waist to the bust for added support.  The eyes side of this is boned as well.




None of the raw edges are finished in any way.


Her silk is tearing a little, particularly around the shoulders, but for $25, I had to bring her home!

My next step is to re-create this bodice as closely as I can for my next dress.  Stay tuned!

Enjoy!

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