Shirred Sheer Bodice

Once upon a time, I had a shirred sheer bodice.  I was 16.  Let's just say I am no longer the same size 10 years later.  I gave the old bodice to the Liendo clothing closet for new docents to use while they source out their own costumes.  My original plans were to complete this bodice before Welbourne last year.  Yeah, that didn't happen.  I got one side of the front bodice done then ran out of time so I had to give up.  Here are my inspiration images before I get too sidetracked:

Unknown collection, 1860's.

Unknown collection, 1864-1865.

Unknown collection, 1860's.

Godey's Lady's Book, Dec. 1862.

Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1860's.

Fast forward 8 months later and I decided I would like a sheer bodice for Liendo tours in July.  Not that I didn't have sheer dresses, mind you, but I just wanted something different.  And being on summer break gave me an excuse to spend 3 days hand sewing this monstrosity.  Here it is:

So the fabric is from Etsy, I think.  Someone on there sells cotton voile in like 10 or 25 yard lengths.  I think I bought 10 yards but maybe 3 times over by this point?  I don't know-I've used a lot of voile.  At this point, I can't even remember how I used it all.  But I can clearly see my Etsy past purchase history!  The fabric is nice, semi-sheer and very fine and thin.  Perfect for summer!  The lace I got from cottonlace.com and is the 3/8" beading, I believe.  The ribbon is from Farmhouse Fabrics.  I'm fairly certain the people at Farmhouse Fabrics think I'm crazy because I usually place and order then two or three days later place a second order (always after the first order ships) on things I forgot.  I've done it like three or four times by now.  I just get so distracted looking at their website and I forget all the things I'm supposed to buy.  Then it hits me a few days later as I go through my sewing room to see what I can work on while I'm waiting for an order to arrive.  So yeah, I've paid probably $40 in totally unnecessary shipping costs because I can't get myself together and remember everything at the same time.

For the bodice, I took the fabric and made it a couple times longer than my pattern (I think all three pieces ended up being 44" long) then hand stitched some gathering lines.  I made my two rows 1/2" apart then 2 1/2" away from the next rows.  Then I pulled them all up to match the size of my pattern and cut away.  After that, all I had to do was tack on the lace and pull the ribbon through.  Originally, I was going to have little 1/4" lace around the edges of the beading but I couldn't find the lace I bought for that.  I may eventually sew some on to add a little more detail.

For the sleeves, I knew I wanted bishop and not fully shirred. I couldn't decide if I wanted them partially shirred like the Godey's drawing or plain with a little cuff detail like the purple bodice.  I ended up doing plain because I didn't have enough lace beading to do the Godey's print.  I could have bought more but I couldn't wait for it to get to Texas from the Netherlands and I didn't want to make another Farmhouse Fabrics order (see above).  So I stuck with what I had.  I'm pleased with the result.

In preparation for 1863 Welbourne, I made up what I'm calling the watermelon plaid dress's skirt.  I'm waiting on the bodice to be sure I get a proper fit.  I'll most likely make it up in late September or October.  Since I had the skirt already done, I wore it with the shirred white bodice for Liendo's July tours.

I wore my Fugawee boots and broke out my brown straw bonnet from Timely Tresses to go with the ensemble.  I also brought a newly recovered parasol with me.  This one's probably 1862/1863 so with my dress being of the same time period, I thought it worked well.  Unfortunately, I didn't have the presence of mind to take pictures of have someone take pictures of me in the ensemble.  My plan, however, is to wear the same in September so maybe then!

Enjoy!