Monday, November 9, 2020

1830s Nightgown and Cap

 Not that I couldn't sleep in my chemise, mind you, but I find I enjoy having a fresh, clean nightdress to slip into at events.  And even when events do not call for night-time authenticity, I find wearing period clothes throughout the whole event helps me slip into character easier.  So, an 1830s nightgown was needed.

The Workwoman's Guide has directions for three different nightdresses.  One is quite plain, looking much like a chemise with an added ruffle.  The second, one with a high collar and the third with a yoke.  I found an original gown in the MET with a yoke so I went with the yoked nightdress instructions.

Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1830s

To modify the WWG pattern, I simply took the yoke pattern given, lengthened it a bit, then took out a big, square-ish shape chunk out of the neckline.  I also extended it across the shoulder and then cut the pattern to be half my measurement across my front, armpit to armpit.

For the body part, the WWG calls for 1 yard wide pieces cut 1.5 yards long.  1.5 yards was super long on me, I cut mine at 1.25 yards and still took up a 6" hem.  I also added gores to the side much like a chemise, although the pattern for that specific nightgown didn't mention gores.  There is another nightgown pattern 2 pages previous that does include gores, so I know the concept is correct.

The seams were run and felled and gathering threads were put on the front and back.  The front had to be slit down the center and narrow hemmed.  I added a ruffle to the neckline, about 1.25" in width and about 1.5 times the length of the neckline, so not a super full ruffle.

The yoke was piped, as per instructions (but apparently linen nightgowns do not need to be piped) and then sleeves were made.  As I lengthened the shoulder, the WWG directions for 18" square sleeves, was not going to work.  I cut mine 10" by 40", run and fell them, then gathered them into a ruffled band and then also into the armscye.

For the nightcap, I followed WWG instructions on page 62.  There wasn't much detail in the instructions, but I was able to figure it out with the help of other cap engravings.  I opted to put the ruffle all the way around the cap per a few originals I have seen and also other caps listed in the WWG.

Although I rarely use nightcaps, it is nice to have it and it only took a few hours to whip together by hand.  The nightgown I am pleased with as it is an open necked gown with shorter sleeves.  I can't wait to get to use them!




Enjoy!

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