1830s Sleeve Support Puffs

 Ah, yes, the 'how' part of getting those gigantic 1830s sleeves.  I opted for a canned version instead of stuffing with wool roving.  I figured this way would be cooler.  All that was needed was some white cotton and some cane.  The sleeve plumpers are based off originals such as these:

National Museums of Scotland, 1830s

Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1828

Mine are more closely copied from the first originals.

It does seem (and so it bears mentioning) that the stuffed version of sleeve supports was much more popular in the period than boned versions.  I suppose because they are easier to figure out-they are just giant pillows!  But I hadn't seen anyone make a boned version and wanted to see how it would work out.  Plus, these are a whole lot lighter than wool stuffed pillows on my arms!

The Workwoman's Guide does not have directions for sleeve supports but on page 89, there are engravings and directions for several short sleeves which the author states could also be used as petticoat sleeves.  Now I'm sure she's meaning sleeves for a petticoat body, or a full dress petticoat, but the pattern looked about right to mimic the sleeve puffs from Scotland, so I used that pattern.

The Scottish puffs have the most wonderful zoom feature where you can see each and every stitch that went into them.  That was how I determined that there were canes both horizontal and vertical in the puffs.  They are of course hand stitched and are cut on the bias, just as the WWG describes.  I couldn't tell if the sleeves had a lining which formed the cane casings or if they made bias little channels.  I opted for channels as that seemed easier to me.

I used a total of five channels per puff-two vertical and three horizontal just like the originals.  I used lengths of rattan cane for the 'boning' bits as I had a TON left over from a failed parasol project (well, not really failed-I just had to buy wider cane.  So now I have lots of this thinner stuff.  I am currently taking project requests that use a LOT of cane). They were then gathered into a band both at the top and bottom and the top had little cotton ties added on.  The middle cane I cut 36" long, the top 30", and the bottom 20".

Enjoy!

1830s Shifts, or Chemises

 Okay, I've finally stopped dragging my feet in doing actual important 1830s projects... let's build a wardrobe!  Starting with shifts!  I'm making two today.  Currently, I don't foresee doing more than one day events with the 1830s and a good rule of thumb is to have fresh underthings for each day of your event plus an extra pair.  Therefore, two seems to be about right for right now.

I used the directions on page 46 of "The Workwoman's Guide"-the gored shifts.  I tried doing the gusseted ones last time but they didn't turn out so I'm going a different route.  It's an earlier style, more regency, but as the WWG was published in 1838, still applicable to 1836.  There are many museums that have collections of similar chemises.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, early 19th century

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, early 19th century

I was a little concerned about the width of fabric fitting across my bust, but the pattern actually ended up being too large.  I really could have gone with the third size.  I'll remember that for next time!  It was simple enough to make up from the engraving.  All sewing was worked by hand and the side seams were felled.  No piping was needed as per the directions and looking at originals.

Enjoy!

1830s Nightgown and Cap

 Not that I couldn't sleep in my chemise, mind you, but I find I enjoy having a fresh, clean nightdress to slip into at events.  And even when events do not call for night-time authenticity, I find wearing period clothes throughout the whole event helps me slip into character easier.  So, an 1830s nightgown was needed.

The Workwoman's Guide has directions for three different nightdresses.  One is quite plain, looking much like a chemise with an added ruffle.  The second, one with a high collar and the third with a yoke.  I found an original gown in the MET with a yoke so I went with the yoked nightdress instructions.

Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1830s

To modify the WWG pattern, I simply took the yoke pattern given, lengthened it a bit, then took out a big, square-ish shape chunk out of the neckline.  I also extended it across the shoulder and then cut the pattern to be half my measurement across my front, armpit to armpit.

For the body part, the WWG calls for 1 yard wide pieces cut 1.5 yards long.  1.5 yards was super long on me, I cut mine at 1.25 yards and still took up a 6" hem.  I also added gores to the side much like a chemise, although the pattern for that specific nightgown didn't mention gores.  There is another nightgown pattern 2 pages previous that does include gores, so I know the concept is correct.

The seams were run and felled and gathering threads were put on the front and back.  The front had to be slit down the center and narrow hemmed.  I added a ruffle to the neckline, about 1.25" in width and about 1.5 times the length of the neckline, so not a super full ruffle.

The yoke was piped, as per instructions (but apparently linen nightgowns do not need to be piped) and then sleeves were made.  As I lengthened the shoulder, the WWG directions for 18" square sleeves, was not going to work.  I cut mine 10" by 40", run and fell them, then gathered them into a ruffled band and then also into the armscye.

For the nightcap, I followed WWG instructions on page 62.  There wasn't much detail in the instructions, but I was able to figure it out with the help of other cap engravings.  I opted to put the ruffle all the way around the cap per a few originals I have seen and also other caps listed in the WWG.

Although I rarely use nightcaps, it is nice to have it and it only took a few hours to whip together by hand.  The nightgown I am pleased with as it is an open necked gown with shorter sleeves.  I can't wait to get to use them!

Enjoy!

More 1850s/1860s Evening Head-dresses

 Yes, more of them  Four more, to be exact.  Mostly because, why not?

First up, I copied one worn by Queen Victoria in 1851.

I used millinery wire to build a base which was then covered in a brown velvet ribbon.  That was covered by a royal blue silk satin ribbon that I box pleated.  I added a bit of Chantilly lace to the back and put a silk flower on one side.  My flowers were bigger than Queen Victoria's so I only used one plus a few leaves instead of the three the Queen wore.

The next was a simple floral headdress.  I used just two floral stems from Timely Tresses and attached them by wrapping them in silk ribbon.  Super simple!  And really cute.

It was based off several originals, like this one:

Next up, I made another wire based headdress.  This one was based off this original:

I used apple green velvet ribbon and black Chantilly lace instead of the red velvet and blonde lace the original used.

And finally, I decided to remake a headdress that I made many years ago.  It was originally based off this engraving from Godey's Lady's Book, 1861.

Godey's also published four more headdresses that year.

I took off the flowers that were on the headdress, added wire to the top, and recovered it in black silk taffeta.  I put pearls on front and ostrich feathers in back.  I think it turned out cute!  I especially love that it is totally neutral.

Enjoy!