Walnut Wool Gauze Dress

This is an older post that I never got around to posting-other things just seemed more important!  I first wore this gown in November of last year, but never got any pictures of me in it at Liendo so we're dealing with inside pictures today.  So without further ado...

The wool sales have been fantastic!  I scored two dress lengths of late-a GORGEOUS red 100% wool challis and a more subdued walnut brown wool gauze.

With such a subdued fabric, I knew I wanted something a little extra for trim just to spruce up the whole look.  So I decided to search for sheer wool original dresses and see if anything struck my fancy.  I quickly found one I liked.

Collection of K. Krewer

With my dark brown wool, my version would just be inverted from the original-light on dark instead of dark on light.  I couldn't quite find silk in an appropriate brown color that looked right with my fabric so I ended up going with a silver-gray that ended up looking fine.

Making up the dress was easy-I just used my normal bodice pattern and added a point down the front.  The sleeves are view B from Simplicity 4551.  The skirt, of course, is just rectangles sewn together then gauged.

The trim was a bit trickier as I didn't have the original to help gauge the sizing of it all.  But I think I managed to get pretty close.  I just cut it 1/4" bigger than I wanted and folded the 1/4" down to create a clean, non-raw edge all across and stitched the trim on by hand invisibly.  I had a little trouble getting the bodice and sleeve trim to look nice and even, but I think it turned out okay.

I opted to not add my normal twill tape skirt lifters to the dress as I was worried they would show through.  The original dress DOES have skirt lifters but my understanding is that they are hooks and eyes rather than twill tape.  I opted for a more removable approach with the skirt lifters-a ribbon belt with loops as described and depicted in Godey's Lady's Book, 1862.

I made two sets-a green and a brown.  I think the green looks smashing with the brown wool!

For accessories, I chose a lavender silk satin ribbon to make a neck tie with.  I opted to not wear a brooch on top, although that's an option as well.  I did, however, add some little purple grape cluster earrings I bought off Etsy.  I also chose a lovely plaid hairnet to top off the look.  I have a nice lavender one made of the same ribbon as the neck tie but I felt like it was just too monotone with the same color accessories and wanted something that was coordinating, not matching.

When events start popping up again, this dress will go with a variety of my bonnets but I think it especially coordinates well with my green checked half crown bonnet trimmed with purple and ivory.  A recovered mid-war American-made parasol will complete the look.

Enjoy!