Riding Aside Costume - Initial Research

Ladies' Riding Costume.—With great increase in the wholesale practice of riding on horseback which has recently taken place in this city and vicinity, we are persuaded that we should do a great service to our fair readers by copying from a book recently published in England, the following directions for the riding costume of women:

"Few ladies know how to dress for horse exercise, although there has been a great improvement, as far as taste is concerned, of late years. As to the headdress, it may be whatever is in. fashion, provided, it fits the head so as not to require continual adjustment, often needed when the hands would be better employed with the reins and whip. It should shade from the sun, and protect the nape of the neck from rain. The recent fashions of wearing the plumes or feathers of the ostrich, the cock, the pheasant, the peacock and kingfisher, in the riding hats of young ladies, in my humble opinion, are highly to be commended. As to the riding habit, it may be of any color and material suitable to the wearer and the season of the year, but the sleeves must fit rather closely; nothing can he more out of place, inconvenient, and ridiculous, than the wide hanging sleeves which look so well in a drawing-room. For country use, the skirt of a habit may be short, and bordered at the bottom a foot deep with leather. The fashion of a waistcoat of light material for summer, revived from the fashion of last century, is a decided improvement, and so is the over-jacket of cloth or sealskin for rough weather. It is the duty of every woman to dress in as becoming and attractive a manner as possible; there is reason why pretty young girls should not indulge in picturesque riding costume, as long as it is appropriate. Many ladies entirely spoiled the 'sit' of their skirts by retaining the usual impedimenta of petticoats. The best dressed horsewomen wear nothing more than a flannel chemise, with long, colored sleeves. Ladies' trousers should be of the same material and color as the habit; and, if fall, flowing, like a Turk's, and fastened with an elastic band round the ankle, they will not be distinguished from the skirt. In this costume, which may be made amply warm by the folds of the trousers, plaited like a Highlander's kilt (fastened with an elastic band at the waist) a lady can sit down in a manner impossible for one encumbered by two or three short petticoats. It is the chest and back that require double folds of protection during and after stormy exercise. There is a prejudice against ladies wearing long Wellington boots, but it is quite absurd, for they need never be seen, and are a great comfort and protection in riding long distances, when worn with trousers tucked inside. They should, for obvious reasons, be large enough for warm woollen stockings, and easy to get on and off. It would not look well to see a lady struggling out of a pair of wet boots, with the help of a boot-jack and a couple of chambermaids. The heels of riding-boots, whether for ladies or gentlemen, should be low, but long, to keep the stirrup in its place.

Godey's Lady's Book July 1861

First up: footwear.  Godey's March 1861 states that "Gaiters or morocco boots with heels, and long stockings, of course, will complete the footgear."  As such, my plan is to wear my normal cotton or wool stockings.  Not much change there!  According to Godey's, then, I could very well just wear my gaiters.  I am considering making some out of a hide of goat skin I have (of which I will also be making gloves/gauntlets).  For those curious about riding boots, here are some examples from the period:  

1860's Riding Boots from the MET

1830's Riding Boot from the MET

Next category: underpinnings.  I will be wear my normal chemise.  The March of 1861 Godey's states a chemise for riding should be of light flannel stuff (wool), but no one will see it, anyhow, and I'd feel a lot more comfortable in my normal chemise.  I don't feel the need for an extra riding corset at least right now since my normal one isn't really fitted after the waist anyway so it functions in the same way and will allow me the range of movement I need for riding.

I've noticed conflicting information on whether women wore trousers, petticoats, or both.  Obviously the quote above states trousers should be worn.  Other sources said petticoats were worn.  Still other sources have stated it was sort of a matter of personal preference.  I'm not a fan of anything with pant legs (I barely tolerate drawers) so I would rather just wear a petticoat.  Besides, I plan on using the fabric from my green wool (I made the skirt way too long to use with a hoop unless I use 4-5 petticoats so I plan on making a riding jacket out of the extra fabric) and I'm not sure I have enough for the jacket and some trousers.  I have found one image from 1868 and several fashion plates from 1850-1870 that show petticoats underneath the habits.  Of course, I can't tell if they're wearing trousers underneath the petticoat or not :).

1850 Fashion Plate                                                       1857 Fashion Plate

1868 Photograph                                                         1868 Fashion Plate

                     

                                                            Peterson's Magazine, 1863


Now comes my favorite part-the habit itself.  As stated above, the fabric for this habit will be made for a gown that never quite worked as a dress.  The fabric itself is a dark sage green wool that I bought at Hancocks one year at $3 a yard.  It was the only time I have ever gone black Friday shopping and it was worth it.  I bought the whole bolt.  Here's a swatch of the fabric:

I'll probably end up taking the skirt apart and re-pleating it as there is an article in the 1857 issue of Peterson that states that the "skirt should be plaited, so that the greater part of the fulness should fall on the left side."  It really shouldn't be a bother to fix it.  I have read in several places (none original sources, I don't believe) that habit hems were faced in leather, but I think that my usual of polished cotton will work just fine.  Aside from just a small number of fashion plates I found with elaborate braiding (2 to be exact, plus one that has sort of a sash that has braiding on it), riding skirts were usually left plain.  Which makes my job a whole lot easier!

As for the top, my inspiration is coming from this plate for Godey's Lady's Book, 1863:

My plain is to have the lapels and cuffs of cherry red velvet (cherry red was a favorite accent color for riding habits, based on my readings) and then have lots of braiding in cherry red, as well.  I want braiding on the back of the dress, on the tops of the sleeves, as well on the basque in the back.  I'm using a slipper pattern for my braiding design:

Of course, I'll have to make a sort of underbody (complete with the ruffles on the original design).  I'm debating on either making the necktie in the velvet or potentially out of black silk and then trimmed with red braid.

Other accessories will include a black silk belt, belt buckle, and a little pouch.  Not to mention a whip and gloves.  I bought a modern little whip that looks to be a good approximation to the period ones in photographs.  For the gloves, I've always wanted to make my own and I have a good bit of leather stashed away that I can use.  Based on the original plate view G of the Butterick historical gloves pattern looks great.  I rarely use patterns, much less commercial ones, but having never made gloves, I figured it would be good to get acquainted with the shapes.

And lastly (for me at least, accessories for the horse will have to be another post for another time), headwear.  All the sources I have read state that the hair should be worn low and covered with a net the same color of the hair.  Hats, however, could vary to whatever was in fashion at the time.  I'm going to make a low crown black silk hat much like the original.  I think I'll use peacock feathers (as per the above quote for 1861 Godey's "plumes or feathers of the ostrich, the cock, the pheasant, the peacock and kingfisher, in the riding hats of young ladies, in my humble opinion, are highly to be commended".)  I have a particular fondness for peacocks-I live near some, and my grandmother had one for a short period.  Also, Liendo Plantation, the home where I do most of my dressing out, has peacocks and I would fit right in with them.  I haven't decided what to do about the veil.  I have seen articles saying that green was the best color and fashion plates that show veils of blue, however, I'm inclined to go with a straight black.  Peterson's Magazine of 1865 recommends "a short black veil in front, and this veil is rounded off at the corners, and it fits the face as a mask."  Period photographs and plates show that there was usually a longer veil in the back as well.  I assume that I will make it out of silk gauze or something of that sort.

I'm in the process of restoring the saddle and researching what else was used (types of bridles, etc.).  For now, I will leave you with a quote from Godey's Lady's Book-July 1863.

"We think we cannot chat this month upon a more interesting subject than riding habits.

Riding, we are glad to see, has increased in favor all over the land. A fine horse is at all times a pleasant sight; but the finest horse never looks .so well in our eyes, as when he proudly bears a fair lady, with her flowing skirt. Tho Empress of the French, besides being the most beautiful woman, is the most admirable rider in her dominions. She sets the fashion for all the world. If it be to her influence that we owe the fashion of riding on horseback, she has rendered our ladles an excellent service. Fashion has changed very little, in tho way of riding habits. All seem to agree that it is rather a conspicuous position for a lady, and consequently her dress should be plain, at least in the city. At a fashionable watering-place, fancy may be allowed more liberty. The main points are, that the habit should fit well, and the skirt be long and ample. But bear in mind, dear readers, that there is such a thing as a "Juste milieu." If the skirt be too long the fair lady's life is in danger, and if it be too wide the horse will be covered with a mountain of dress. The only rule we can give is, that the skirt must be just long and wide enough to hang gracefully. Few under skirts should be worn. One is ample. Indeed, skirts are generally ignored, and pantaloons, the color of the habit, are now donned. Though a cloth habit may be found uncomfortably warm on starting, still it is so difficult to provide for both heat and cold, that, as a sanitary precaution, we would advise a rather thick habit. For the city, we admire a dark habit, say black, blue, green, or gray, made with a deep jockey at the back, buttoned in front up to the throat, with tight, or elbow sleeves almost tight. With this should be worn linen collar and cuffs. The Byron is a pretty style. The tie can be of white muslin, or of bright ribbon, either of which, however, must be without streamers to fly about. The hair should be done up closely in a net. The invisible is the best style. In New York, the steeple hat is much worn, and when the lady is short, and has a well shaped head, it is becoming. But the steeple hat, besides being very warm, does not soften or conceal defects, and we would rather substitute for it the Andalusian, Francis 1st, Henry 3d, or some other fancy style, to be found at Genin's on Broadway. The best style of veil is the Loup or Mask veil, which we described in our January Chat. At the watering-places we see habits of every variety. There are alpacas and merinos of every shade, trimmed fancifully with silk, velvet, and braid; also gray, buff, white piquis made up in the most varied styles. With these fancy costumes, of course the hat should correspond. The most stylish of the season is of white felt, with rather high crown and trimmed with a black lace scarf tied at the back. The contrast between the white felt and black lace is striking and beautiful. A handsome whip and well fitting gauntlets complete the equipment of our equestrienne, and so we leave her."