Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Finished 1850's Bonnet

Hello everyone and merry Christmas!  I hope everyone is enjoying the holiday break and spending time with family and friends.

I'm been keeping myself super busy trying to get all these projects completed.  So far, I have mostly completed the nightgown (details on construction when it is complete), finished fringing my original shawl (pictures to come!), and begun on my broderie anglaise petticoat.  I've also finished an 1850's bonnet for the Texas Living History Association's annual conference in just a few short weeks.

Once upon a time, I actually had an 1850's bonnet but I never wore it because I never had the occasion to.  Therefore, I sold it (always a bad, bad idea.  Never sell your living history stuff-it may come in handy one day!).  A few months later, my friend Paula gifted me a silk taffeta ball dress that doesn't fit her anymore.  Since the skirt isn't balanced, it really works better as an 1850's gown.  I haven't had a chance to fit the bodice to me yet, but over the summer I made a lovely 1850's basque to wear with the skirt during the Bell County Museum's summer camps.  Since it was an indoor event, I had no need for a bonnet.
The collar is an antique one, not originally 1860's, but I cut it down to make it work.  I have the matching cuffs as well, but I haven't attached them to undersleeves yet.  The skirt, as I have said before, is an absolutely gorgeous silk taffeta.  The basque is made of black cotton velveteen (a closer match to period velvet from the originals I've handled) and has pagoda sleeves.  The front closure is hooks and eyes, although I am considering adding some sort of fancy closure.

Since I may be spending some time outside for the conference, I've decided I want another 1850's bonnet.  This one is based off the bonnet here at least in trimmings.  The bonnet didn't cost anything as I had everything I needed in my stash.
I'm actually quite fond of the simplicity.  I like that there is minimal decor inside-the last bonnet drove me crazy with all the silk flowers rustling around my ears.  I couldn't hear anything but rustling.

I can't wait to wear it!

Saturday, December 12, 2015

Upcoming Projects

Oh my goodness, am I swimming to my neck in projects!  I'm looking forward to upcoming 2016 events and thinking about events always gets me into a sewing frenzy.

First, I have ordered a cage kit from Originals by Kay-my current cage isn't in too terrible condition, but the shape is becoming kind of wonky.  It's time for a nice hoop this time-not a rigged one like the one I've been wearing for the past 5 years.  I ordered the 108" circumference, but I'm thinking of pushing it down to the 100" range-I like the size of my current hoop, if not the shape.  Not to mention all my skirts are balanced to fit a 100" hoop.

I'm also going to need a few extra sets of chemises/drawers.  Paula and I have tossed around the idea of going to the ALHFAM conference in June this year since it's so close.  We haven't decided for sure, but we're considering the possibility.  Anyway, there's no way I could wear the same set of underpinnings twice without a good wash.  I may even need a few extra petticoats.  I already have a pretty embroidered chemise and drawers set, and a plain set.  If I make one more with tucks, another with soutache, and perhaps another plain set, I should be set.  One can never have too many chemises and drawers.  Ever.  I'm considering Past Patterns #706 for the tucked chemise, and the following for the fancy braided one:

Even the plain set can have a bit of lace or ruffles.

As far as dresses, I believe I will wear my 1850's velvet basque with my black and cream plaid taffeta skirt for the TLHA conference in January.  So, that is done.  However, I would like to make an evening bodice for my emerald green silk.  I'm thinking of lightening up with a white removable bertha-something I can wear with any of my evening gowns.  This is what I am thinking of:
My plan is to make it more bertha like and leave off the fichu-like ends.  I have a good stash of antique Maltese lace-my only issue is getting it white and not that antique off-white.  Good silk Swiss dot is not in my budget, so I'm thinking silk organza would work.

Speaking of conferences, the one in June will be super hot so I'm thinking some nice sheers.  I have a beautiful dusty blue silk organza, and a lovely sheer cotton sari that would make a beautiful dress.  Here's a picture of the sari fabric:
It's not as yellow in real life as it appears on the screen-it's more of a natural color.  The other colors are blue, red, and green.  I'm still cooking up some design ideas for the dress, but I'm thinking pagoda sleeves with that border on it, with the border also along the hem.  I'll also probably make a belt out of the border.  Half-high lining, of course, since I want maximum coolness.

I've also always so admired this dress:
It's one of my favorites.  I'm thinking some light cotton voile or lawn, stamped with blue stars.  I've read an article on stamping fabrics with regular ink pads here and I'm thinking about trying it.  Then simply add a blue silk belt or sash and voila, a lovely little sheer dress.

And of course, if I'm getting some new dresses, bonnets will be in order.  I have my new blue and yellow straw, but I may actually finish that little white shirred bonnet I started on years ago but never finished.  My plan was to trim it in red and black-I think it would look smashing with the blue and white sheer.  I also have a pattern for a soft back bonnet, but I think that 3 new bonnets is just a little over the top.  I may yet change my mind-it's not like it's going to cost me anything but time-I have everything I would need in my stash.

If all that isn't ambitious enough, there's more.  My friend Paula and I are making plans for Welbourne Plantation next October and I want a really nice wrapper to wear.  I bought this lovely fabric for it, too:
The plain is a nice, almost semi-sheer wool and the other is a reproduction cotton, with the hand of wool.  I will have to put a nice thick facing on it to get it to lay like wool, though.  I'm going to use Kay's wrapper pattern for this project, making it a bit wider to fit over a nice-sized hoop.

And of course, what's a wrapper without a fancy petticoat?  My original plan was this:
But I'm one of those go big or go home people, and I've suddenly got very interested in Broderie Anglaise petticoats.  I can't find any online, but I used to do very nice embroidery work so, hey, I thought I'd try my hand.  I'm going to crank out a few nice collars and cuffs before I go for the big stuff, but if I like what I can do, I want something like this:
Yes, I'm insane.  Yes, I have a full time job that often requires me to work 12-15 hours a day five days a week.  But isn't it so pretty?  One day...  If not in time for Welbourne, I'll make up the pretty tucked one instead.

And of course if I'm going to have a fancy wrapper and petticoat, I'm going to need some house slippers.  I've settled on some berlin wool slippers in this pattern:

I like how it is somewhat similar to the print on the wrapper fabric.  I'm using blue for all the flowers and cream for the little fern-like things.  I've already bought most of the wool tapestry, but the wool I bought for the background was way too light so I just ordered some in about 4 shades darker.  I have the canvas ready, too, so as soon as the wool comes in, I can get started.  I'm going to have to have my lovely friend Amy help me put the slippers together-she does amazing work with shoes.  I've already found some good sole leather and made a sole pattern, but I'm too afraid to cut the leather without someone's help.  More on the slippers when I get rolling on the uppers.

My last main project that I want is a nice period nightgown. I have a thin one, but I am one that gets cold extremely easily so I bought some canton flannel and I'm going to go to town making a tucked pretty nightgown to wear at events.

And of course there's all the little accessories that are always on the back of my mind but I never seem to get completed:

Recovering my Marquis parasol
An 1850's bonnet
A summer mantle made out of the pina cloth I have stashed away
Another folding fan
A pretty lace fichu
A ruffled fichu (perhaps out of extra, unstamped fabric from the blue and white sheer?  Hmm)
Broaches, earrings, and other bits of jewelry
Finish the little chatelaine
Various pretty collars and undersleeves-I never seem to have enough
An embroidered silk apron
Finish fringing that original paisley shawl
A Swiss waist
Various belts
Finish that corded sunbonnet
Finish flossing the white corset
Finish that blue linen traveling bag
A bag for both the hoop and the cot I use for reenacting
Get period eyeglasses
A riding habit out of the extra green wool, even though I don't have a horse or a sidesaddle
A bathing dress
A bonnet veil
A hat veil

...I'm sure there are others that I'm merely forgetting.  It would seem I thrive on having a constant list of things to do.